grounded48
Registered Member
ok so i have a daily driver that i just lifted and want to start off roading it, should i keep the limited slip peg leg setup or do a locker on the front or rear..Thanks in advance
CK5
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91' K5 lockers
- Thread starter grounded48
- Start date
I've got a lockright in the back of my truck I drive quite a bit on the road and off road. I love it, vastly improved the capability offroad and not noticeable on the street unless you goose it around a corner.
Dump the gov loc.
If your set on keeping the 6 bolt, go for a 14 bolt s.f outta a 88-98 and build that.
Not worth sinking the $$$ in a ten bolt IMO.
If your set on keeping the 6 bolt, go for a 14 bolt s.f outta a 88-98 and build that.
Not worth sinking the $$$ in a ten bolt IMO.
But a gov-loc in a 14SF is good too.
SF's do have similar probs to a ten bolt, never had a issue with mine. Other than it wouldn't lock when needed......so in went a Detroit
Full floaters gov loc's are supposedly good.....although I did blow mine up
I have had good luck with the SF GovLoc's. But, I didn't go into places that needed a full locker with it.
Judging by his post, I think he has an open axle.
Martin
Martin
Moved to the garage, this is not a build thread...
Yeah, I'm seeing some confusion of terms too. Being a 91 I'd say the vast majority got the Gov-Lock (G80). When they get old and tired, and presuming they haven't exploded, they behave like an open diff. My current 12 bolt has a Gov-Lock, but you'd never know it.
So, to the OP:
One tire fire...is open or wore out gov lock
Limited slip, posi etc are interchangeable terms. Most use clutches to limit slip from one side to the other, while allowing enough slip so axle speeds can be different when cornering
Lockers, lock the axle shafts to the same speed.
If only going one locker I would do the front. I would not lock a rear10 bolt
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'm running a Loc-rite in the front, factory gov-loc in the rear 14ff, It's gotten me into places a Suburban never should have gone. A full locker in the rear probably would have been easier, but as it stands, the truck is ready for a new body.
First questions I have is what kind of off-roading do you do? How big of a tire are you wanting to run?
You'll find that these trucks are pretty capable even in stock form. If you're offroading is relatively mild, you'll probably have a better time wheeling your truck as is than spending the money and downtime adding lockers you may not need. It's always important to be realistic about your intended use for the vehicle. That being said, I would want at least a posi even for a mostly street truck.
As for tires, this is important because if you want to go bigger, you'll also probably need gears, which play into whether you'll want to swap axles, and since you have get at the same parts when doing gears and lockers, it makes sense to do them at the same time and save labor.
Another note, if you plan on running in snow a lot, you may want to leave the front open. I've got a lock-rite in my front and never had a problem in snow, but some have noted that a locked front can make for some squirrely behavior on those slick surfaces. YMMV.
You'll find that these trucks are pretty capable even in stock form. If you're offroading is relatively mild, you'll probably have a better time wheeling your truck as is than spending the money and downtime adding lockers you may not need. It's always important to be realistic about your intended use for the vehicle. That being said, I would want at least a posi even for a mostly street truck.
As for tires, this is important because if you want to go bigger, you'll also probably need gears, which play into whether you'll want to swap axles, and since you have get at the same parts when doing gears and lockers, it makes sense to do them at the same time and save labor.
Another note, if you plan on running in snow a lot, you may want to leave the front open. I've got a lock-rite in my front and never had a problem in snow, but some have noted that a locked front can make for some squirrely behavior on those slick surfaces. YMMV.
grounded48
Registered Member
yeah just one locker for now.. what would you run up front money being an issue as well??
I have a powertrax no slip up front. Supposedly it is an upgraded version of the lock rite.. Ive been happy with it, pretty smooth for the most part. And way simple to put in.
If you lock the front, definitely look into full circle snap rings for the axle u joints. I didn't think it was necessary. Put in the locker, boom I blew out a front axle yoke after it spit one of the caps
If you lock the front, definitely look into full circle snap rings for the axle u joints. I didn't think it was necessary. Put in the locker, boom I blew out a front axle yoke after it spit one of the caps
I have a powertrax no slip up front. Supposedly it is an upgraded version of the lock rite.. Ive been happy with it, pretty smooth for the most part. And way simple to put in.
If you lock the front, definitely look into full circle snap rings for the axle u joints. I didn't think it was necessary. Put in the locker, boom I blew out a front axle yoke after it spit one of the caps
had a no slip in my old 97 c1500, once it broke in it drove just as smooth as any posi equipped vehicle ive ever been in,
Some guys recommend tacking the caps in a few spots to help the caps stay togehther?
