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'91 Suburban 6.2/V2500 'Blueberry'

norgeek

Registered Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Posts
33
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Location
Norway
Hello everyone!

Some time ago I surfed straight into a nasty trap cleverly disguised as a Ryoken build thread; 450ish pages and a few nights later I just had to create an account and leave a few nice words. Apparently the words were a little too well chosen, and now I'm afraid of not living up to expectations :P

I've been on the lookout for a late model square body Suburban for roughly half a year, but excessive rust (road salting is very common in coastal Norway... and pretty much the entire country IS coastal), or too high GVWR's (I'm limited to ~7716lbs without a truck drivers licence) meant that viable vehicles were few and far apart. Just before hitting the bed at 3AM one night I did a final search result refresh on one of many automotive sites.. and there she was! Short story long, I couldn't sleep that night, I was at the bank before it opened, I borrowed a friend and her Toyota IQ ("the world's first car to measure less than three metres long but with four seats inside!") and headed 50 miles into the country before breakfast.


(It's a Chevy according to the VIN, a previous owner probably decided that the GMC covers look better and I do agree)

I probably paid far too much ($7600, my entire savings account AND a credit card, quite a bit under asking price), and I'm assuming it's in a worse shape than it actually is. Still, I'm in love with her and I have enough nice memories behind the wheel already to make it seem like a bargain.

So far I've only done minor fixes, like hidden wiring for a smartphone and a PND in the windshield, mounting a CB radio & antenna (quite a bit of work taking down the inner roof... or rather, trying to get it all back up again singlehandedly - and then figuring out how to open the barn doors from the inside afterwards), and adding a new car stereo.



The most labor-intensive job was redoing half the wires going into the drivers door as they had broken inside the rubber shielding between the door and frame. As I don't have any 'inch'-tools yet I was unable to take the door off, and it got a 'little' tight at times. My fingers now have two more joints.

My dad had a few days off from work last week and we bought a travel trailer and headed north with the truck. It was a pretty short trip of around a thousand miles as I had to be back for a big family party and my kid brother had plans early next week. Still, it served as a nice test for the 'new' truck and apart from mediocre driving lights it seems to be in good condition.

We crossed the Dovrefjell mountain range (if anyone knows the Grieg piece 'Dovregubbens Hall'/'In the Hall of the Mountain King'...). Parked at ~3100 feet above sea level, happy that the heating system in the trailer worked.


After deciding that driving all the way up to the Lofoten area, my fathers birthplace, would be too much stress/too little vacation, we headed east into Sweden and followed the back roads home again.


And a treat for the English speaking crowd:

(It does freeze over quite often..)

Now, for future plans...

Stuff I have to do:
* change front brake lines (starting to crack)
* replace current Sealed Beam headlights with H4 bulb units
* redo much of the electrical stuff; it's a rats nest after several owners have redone it... seemingly at random. Trying to operate the window wipers (rotary switch where it's supposed to be) and the washer fluid pump (on-off-on button NOT! where it's supposed to be, down low on the center console?!) at the same time is done at great risk. The left side running lights come on when they feel like it; usually not at night.
* kill the relatively little surface rust before it gets worse
* generally going through all the mechanicals, making sure everything is good or fix as necessary. Seem to have a couple of minor oil leaks I'd really like to sort.
* adding useful reverse lights.. the current, stamp-sized outlets seem pointless even in informing those behind me that I'm about to roll over them. Probably getting LED worklights that I can override when needed.

Stuff I want to do:
* add a snorkel (Toyota 80 series), for looks and dust protection now and water fording capability down the road when everything else is up to par.
* replace the front-mounted auxiliary lights with roof-mounted ones of better quality. For looks, protection and increased radiator airflow.
* install an auxiliary battery (200Ah ish) to run all the creature comforts off of, so I'll never worry about draining the starter batteries
* replace the current Grant steering wheel. It looks really neat, but even my sisters go-kart has a larger diameter wheel. Gets tiresome trying to keep the 'burb in line at high(:haha:) speeds along sraight roads. :woot:

Stuff that I'm planning on doing some time in the future:
* adding a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit
* redoing the interior; currently thinking four seats, big, full-length center console and roof console, solid wall behind rear seats for smaller interior to heat/cool and to protect from stuff in cargo area, replacing the long windows with access hatches and doing a partitioned cargo compartment with drawers and shelves and nice things and stuff
* roof tent!
* painting it. Semi flat "Desert Sand"'ey with flat black Chevy grille, hood(?), details and lower panels. No chrome. Inspiration: http://mightymichaelis.com/suburban/ (lots of pictures)
* adding a twin spare wheel tire carrier and a gasoline 220V generator to the rear fender/barn doors somehow
* a Ryoken-style hidden winch setup - the reason I found CK5 in the first place!! - behind the front bumper. Due to Norwegian/EU regulations it's impossible to mount anything that adds increased frontal protection, so a winch bumper won't happen.. but I like the clean looks of a hidden setup anyway, and I rarely actually need a winch. Just always dreamed of having one :rolleyes:

Stuff I'd like to do, come time and money:
1 ton axles, maybe a 2" lift, ARB lockers, slightly bigger wheels, under-body armor plates, auxiliary fuel tanks for extended range... Once I have my light commercial truck drivers licence I can increase its GVWR back up to the original rating if I have to, to accommodate above modifications... would mean twice the cost for passing toll stations (there are a LOT of them along the main roads) and vehicle inspection every year instead of every two years.

And then, stuff I'd like to do with the truck:
In general I'd like to build a relatively capable and dependable overland truck. I have no plans on doing any excessive offroading, but I do plan on seeing a lot of bad roads. The obvious alternatives were 80 series Land Cruisers and various Land Rovers. However, as I'm mostly planning on sticking to roads and I'd prefer something slightly more comfortable, I decided to go back to Suburban. Thing is, there are "roads" going pretty much everywhere, at least if you can cross a river or two... depending on all sorts of things, my dad and I are, pretty seriously, planning a road trip into Mongolia, down through China to India and then back to Europe. Obviously, I'll want to have the truck in above-perfect condition before that.. but it's not an impossible drive; lesser vehicles have done it many times and I believe there will be other things along such a journey that will be much more challenging than the driving itself. Before that, I'm semiplanning a shorter shakedown trip somewhat along the lines of Norway - Ukraine - Morocco - Norway trying to catch as many countries as possible along the route. Maybe even as soon as this winter if I can get the truck (and myself) in good shape?

Clickying the pictures should get you to high-resolution versions stored over at Flickr, unless I fudged the BB-code or did something else weird... Feel free to make nasty comments whenever I've messed up the whole language/techtalk thingy and I'll get it sorted out and learn something new!

Oh, and as for the name... well, it's a working title.
 
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ahhh 91 3/4 ton...the perfect 'burb!

Nice truck.

in a year or two if you're like me you'll look back and laugh at your plans...:pimp:


mine have been on hold for 5 years now...:doah:
 
Probably :D But it's too much fun making them to roll over go all realistic and stuff ;)

yes it is:waytogo:


I got a cool collection of parts now, just about have everything I need to get busy...
 
Looking forward to the pictures myself, to be honest ;)



Had a minor breakdown in southern Sweden a couple of days ago. My dad was pulling the caravan with my truck and I was following in his car when he suddenly took a left turn into an empty carpark with some nasty grey smoke poring from the left front wheel well. Out of tools and far from home it was nice having free international roadside assistance, and it turned out to be the brake calliper not letting up again. Previous owner apparently forgot to grease/copperpaste it when he changed disks/pads shortly before selling... Oh well, got on the road again within a couple of hours and made it home without any further issues. Opened it up again today and made sure it's all good. Also invested in a nicely stocked tool set... our current 'tool shed' consists of the rear part of an old race-car-transporting bus, and I don't think anyone's put anything back in place for as long as it's been standing there. Dare anyone not putting something back in MY set!

General question: What's the best lift/jack to have along for the (off)road? The truck didn't come with the stock bottle jack that's stored in the engine compartment, and at home I only have an oversized hydraulic garage jack that seems to want to do nasty things to me every time I get too close... I've read all sorts of great things about the Hi-Lift jacks, but I must admit I'm somewhat at a loss as to how to use it to lift a stock Suburban? Past experience tells me the bumpers are rather flimsy once they have some weight onto them... using the frame horns where the bumpers are mounted, perhaps?

In the morning I'll get the H4 headlight units wired up properly with relays and nice, thick cables, and mount a couple of 27watt/1700lumen LED spreaders I came across as reverse/worklights. A full set of Osram Night Breaker Plus bulbs should arrive early next week to add that little extra punch; can't do HID/Xenon upgrades legally on cars without automatic load adjusting lights here... looking for xenon high beams for the roof eventually though. There is no such thing as too much light :doah:
 
Some progress at last... was suddenly catapulted into a crazy few weeks consisting of funerals, weddings, birthdays, broken cars(not mine!), road trips across the country and what not. Finally back online, and finally back to working on my blue little friend whenever I find the time.

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My dads latest project, a camper bus for nine people with a small workshop in the back... he dragged me all across the country to pick it up, and ever since it got home it seems to suck hours out of me as I redo the electrical stuff. At least the work pays off nicely in free use of the company diesel card :waytogo:

Picked up another Suburban for parts a few days ago, also a '91 V2500/6.2. It's one of three (or so I've been told) square body style Suburbans modified by Starcraft (GrandLuxe) to reach Norway. It's pretty much falling apart (driving it home was interesting, with only one wheel actually doing any real braking and the steering living a life of its own), and I doubt it will ever see the road again under its own power. At least it shifts well between the two working gears.

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(That's my dad getting ready to drive it home, the GVWR is too high for me)

Bought it mainly for the interior, which consisted of five separate captain's chairs (is that the correct term?) and wood detailing all over the place. All the wooden parts, sans center console, were already taken down and sanded, so I'll just have to coat it with something then mount it.

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The seats are already out of the donor vehicle and just need a good cleaning before going in, at least in the front. Still have to figure out how I want to mount the rear seats, that is, if i want to keep the current mounting height or lift them a couple of inches to improve leg space and forward view.. there's certainly enough headroom. I'm also that much closer to doing my own interior solution now that I know how far back I want my cargo wall and how wide a full-length center console can be.

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I've also taken off the Starcraft emblems and front direction indicator lights (little pieces of art, those.. wonder if they're actually original? Made in Denmark), as well as the orange roof marker lights. Bought LED lamps for them today, only to realize that they are about half an inch too long :doah:

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One of the next days I'm stopping by the primary US car junkyard in the area, where there might be some C10 saddle tanks waiting for me. They should fit, right? If I'm lucky, they might even have a spare tire carrier for the back door...

Then I'm stopping by the post office to pick up a two-month-anniversary-present for my car; Not sure how well known the brand DEFA is in the USofA, but over here they are the number one company dealing with plug-in car heating: [clicky]. Anyway, getting the control unit, a 10A 'install and forget' charger and a 2100W interior heater. Engine block heater is already installed. Will probably come in handy once it gets cold, as neither the Sub nor I particularly enjoy cold mornings. We've already had a few nights cold enough to leave ice on the windshields >_<

Hm, anything else? Ah, right, bought a couple of books from eBay: A GMC Light Duty Truck Service Manual for '91 R/V, P models, and an Electrical Diagrams and Diagnostics Manual of the same kind. These books, especially the latter one, are just crazy huge! And an invaluable source of detailed information to a newbie like myself.

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why do you want saddle tanks if you dont mind me asking
 
TL;DR answer: Extended range on long trips :)

(or, more likely to happen I guess, to get as much diesel as possible when I find a particularly nice offer... even with the stock 40 gallon tank there's a pretty noticeable difference between $8 and $9 per gallon).

Another alternative is to use the saddle tanks for vegetable oil, though I haven't actually given this much thought yet.

In detail:

I've seen it mentioned here on CK5 a few times thanks to Google. The main concern seems to be how and where to fill the tanks once mounted. As I am already planning on removing the windows and replacing them with cargo area access hatches of sorts, I'll 'just' put a common filling point inside the passenger side hatch with fuel pipes running down through the floor. It will be behind my (yet-to-be-built) solid cargo area divider, and the filler would drain to the outside with proper ventilation, so no diesel spill or fumes would make it into the passenger compartment.

Rather have it hidden behind the locked&alarmed hatch than out in the open; in case someone siphons out the contents of the main tank there's a chance they'll miss the somewhat hidden aux tanks. Fuel thefts have become a bit of an issue here lately, my fuel cap is already broken as a result. Going down into eastern Europe, Asia or Africa I'm not expecting it to get better.

The saddle tanks will pump diesel into the main tank, preferably through a couple of filters. I don't want to mess with the original fuel system, and I've heard enough bad stuff about the saddle tank fuel selector issues. A simple matter of a fuel gauge for each saddle tank and a switch for each pump, nothing fancy. I'll have more than enough space for both once I get started on my new instrument layout.

I'll probably want to figure out some sort of protection for the underside of the tanks (well, and the main tank for that matter, already broken one a few years ago with some inspired city maneuvering), as they will be pretty exposed just about where I'm likely to land on something nasty. Not really doing a lot of serious offroading though, so it's not an immediate concern.
 
Ah.. I see. I had it in my head you were removing the rear tank:doah: Your idea makes more sense than I was thinking:haha: My burbs a grand luxe too. your 5 seat interior is WAY cooler than mine though. Mine looks basically normal inside exept the wood dash and a SMALL center console/cassette holder.
 
I will as well follow your tread fellow too close to the polar circle friend as i'm situated in Uppsala Sweden and most of my burb originates from Norway.
Basically everything else but V2500 6.2 diesel suburbans are more expensive in Norway for us poor Swedes. And Norway must have the absolute highest concentration of conversion Suburbans in the world? mine is a GMC with Lonestar conversion, but with a chevy grille.. :D

Then it is a fact that everything is heavy duty. I heard something about that the tax was lower for the import if the truck could be imported as a heavy truck and to be able to be aclassified as a heavy truck it had to be able to carry 1 ton of cargo and thats the reason for the high amount of heavy duty stuff on thoose. Mine has a silly high GWR rating for the rear end... this gives me a really harsh ride, how is yours on the road?
 
Mine rides awesome but its half ton and has custom alcan springs that I ordered with the ride in mind
 
Sorry for ignoring everyone for so long, life got it the way as it usually does. Haven't gotten anything useful done to the truck either. Hopefully I'll have some time and money to throw at it this weekend. Have to make sure it's ready for winter conditions at least, and would be nice if I could get all the wooden pieces coated and mounted finally. Still have to find a way to loosen the rear seat frame from the donor truck, I'll probably have to cut the head of the bolts off as every other attempt has left me with bent tools and bloody wounds..

I was lucky enough to snatch a front bumper for cheap the other day. It wasn't a high priority item, but, well, it was an offer I couldn't refuse. Due to European road safety laws, brush guards or any other form of "additional frontal protection system" is pretty much illegal, so I've been wanting the (legal) optional bumper guards(?) for my truck since I first learned about then. Additionally, I've been wanting a bumper without the four large rusty mounting holes that mine has on top from the aux lights that used to be there. I'll have to brush off some rust in the back and knock down a small bump caused by a bent tow hook, and, if I can find one not costing a feature, I'll add a hawse fairlead to the number plate mounting area. Rollers are hard to get through inspection (pedestrian unfreindlyness), and I'll be using a synthetic line when I get a winch anyway.

brt666: Heia! Mine rides quite soft, but it might be at least partially due to it being a downrated truck. To get below the magical 3500kg-limit that separates normal driving licenses and commercial ones, a spring leaf had to be removed from one (or both?) of the rear leaf springs to get the legal axle load down... it was a rather silly thing to do, it was done by fake papers produced by the importer, and GM banned the practice when they heard of it. Since then, these down-graded trucks have had a stupid price hike, easily costing twice that of a 'normal' truck. And yeah, the amount of conversion trucks up here is crazy, especially the Lone Stars, which was what I was actually looking for. As for taxing, it's before my time. I don't know anything about weight considerations, but there most certainly was (and is) a huge loophole for big trucks. If you can fit a certain box of specific dimensions, you can buy the vehicle as a commercial asset and get away with almost half the cost of the actual price tag. Since then there's been a change to the loophole and you're not allowed to have 2nd row seating, but there are still a lot of people buying top-shelf trucks, keeping them around as their second car for 10 years, then have it upgraded to a normal car with all seats, without paying any fees.

Shady: Enjoyed your thread back when I read through it, you have a nice truck indeed. Nice that you kept the plastic fenders, I've somehow always liked them. Looking forward to seeing how you end up doing your center console, looking for ideas for my own.
 
I have Been thinking of the possibility to remove a spring in each rear pack to get a softer ride. Can you post a picture of your pack so i can see which one to remove?
 
Forgot to tell you.... I have some pics of mine with my roof tent fitted in my albums if you want to drool a little.. :D
 
I'll try to remember and have a looksee one of the next days, have to go underneath both Subs anyway :)

And off to check out that album of yours...
Nice tent! Looks roomy, and I like how it extends down to the ground for more space/shelter/privacy... looks like it's rather bulky though? Any idea how much it weighs, and do you feel any change in handling with that much weight up top? How about fuel usage? Unless I missed it in the album, do you have any more information regarding how you mounted it?

So far, my plan regarding roof tent is this:
*mount Thule 543 Artificial Raingutters on each side in three different locations; between front and rear door, just after rear door, and however far back is needed
*use the lowest available Thule gutterfeet (300?) and somewhat overlength square bars; want to mount work/off road lights underneath the bars outside of the feet, and on one side have a rolled up canvas for shelter when needed
*permanently mount an Autohome Maggiolina Grand Tour painted in the colors of the truck (black bottom, "Desert Tan" (gloss, though, for better heat reflection) top). Probably getting the medium sized tent rather than the large as it should be big enough to sleep two people comfortably even if they are 'only' friends/family, I'll save 22lbs of weight that high up (as well as several hundred dollars..), and I don't want my truck to look like a mushroom. Come to think of it, how wide is the roof? *note to self: get around to measure it, finally*

*additionally mounting three extra bars in the same way behind the tent box for fuel (diesel, but also gasoline for 220 volt generator and chain saw for example) and water carried in jerry cans, and possibly some aluminium storage box for carrying light items if the needs arrise.. will see how wide it gets with the legal amount of fuel canisters and a couple of water cans. Jerries would be empty most of the time as I don't overly feel like running around with a hundred + liters of liquid that high up for normal use, rather fill them up before trips that require very long self-sustained range.

To be perfectly honest, having the cans back there is as much of a visual thing as a practical thing, I mean, going places where I'll need more than a thousand miles of range before filling is not something I'll do more than a few times in my life, and that's only if I'm lucky. I still have to do the math, but generally speaking I'd like to have the tent as far forward as possible (not unlike how how it's mounted on brt666's Lone Star) with only a few aux lights and antenna mounts between the tip of the box and the end of the roof. Anyway, I'm sort of thinking that, in addition to making it look more 'right' in my eyes, I'll move some of the weight forward, leaving more usable weight on the rear axle. I'll have to see exactly how much I have to go on up front though, with an extra battery bank going between the front seats, quite a lot of thicker-rather-than-thinner wooden plates used to make up a center+roof console and so on, as well as a Ryoken-style winch inbetween the frame rails behind the bumper... uh, where was I... Right, so, with the tent moved forward there'll be some 'dead' space between the back of the box and the back of the truck, and it should be, roughly, the length and height of a jerry can laying on its back(tent: 14”, can: 13.7").

....can't wait to turn all my wall-of-texts into pictures :rolleyes:
 
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It is a Autocamp FA190 and you have the datasheet here http://www.autocamp.de/sites/documents/4_1.pdf

It weights 55 kg so it's quite ok. It's mounted on the original roof rails with a Standard Thule roofrack for rails. I recently discovered that the mounting screws for the roof rails had loosened, probably due to the roof tent.
I cannot see any remarkable increase in fuel consumbtion due to the roof tent. Mine takes slightly above 1L/10km highway and 1,5 mixed driving (22 MPG and 15 MPG for you "over there") regardless what i do with it.

By the way, my ongoing project is to separate the cargo area from the passenger area, just as you. I'm tired of the sound from the back and also of the fact that my 3,5 kW Webasto heater don't seem to be able to heat the cabin to a comfortable temperature within 1 hour.
 
Oooh, thanks, I'll look into the tent!

Some day when I get the courage for it, I'll have to look into the whole engine thing.. there's definitely stuff to be done to get the fuel consumption down to your levels.

I'll have to keep an eye on your cargo-wall-build, then! I was actually meaning to ask you if you were happy with the Webasto, I'm planning to add one some time in the future for those times when I can't run the DEFA off of electricity. How does it interface with the car, anything fancy with fan control and so to spread the heat generated into the passenger compartment? Where does it retrieve/return water? I'm sort of thinking of putting mine in the back to keep the engine room empty in general (less stuff to work around when on the road doing emergency fixes) and to keep it somewhat more out of harms way should I ever find myself going in a little too deep crossing a river or something.. same goes for the on-board air-compressor I'd like to add at some point. Would just have to make sure the coolant liquid hoses end up somewhere really safe going there and back again.. rather through the new center console than underneath the truck where something might snag it and leave me stranded real fast.. come to think of it, I should probably add that into my drawings right away before I forget it, the unit can always come later. Oooh, such a productive morning already! :woot:
 

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