I know
I started looking at a locker for the rear. I had remind myself that I only have a 5K budget to get this thing back on the road!CK5
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91 Suburban Resurrection
- Thread starter Taylormade
- Start date
I started looking at a locker for the rear. I had remind myself that I only have a 5K budget to get this thing back on the road!
I’m getting most of it there. Bought the drums locally because of the shipping cost.
Worked on the rear axle today, got one outer bearing out…with a fight. Hopefully oreillys doesn’t inspect the rental tools very well when I return them! 
Fighting the MAW urge to replace the ring and pinion. They are rough! Rusty from sitting, chipped tooth on the ring gear and the spiders have significant wear.
I think they will work for the short term, just to get through blazer bash on the easy trails.
Then a re-gear and a traction aid will come later.
Fighting the MAW urge to replace the ring and pinion. They are rough! Rusty from sitting, chipped tooth on the ring gear and the spiders have significant wear.
I think they will work for the short term, just to get through blazer bash on the easy trails.
Then a re-gear and a traction aid will come later.
That looks like a job for a lock rite. That ring gear will last forever.
I like that idea!
If you weld that up into an orb of traction you won’t even see those pits!
That’s what I did for the blazer.It works really well off road, but dragging a tire every time i take a turn on the street got old fast!
This is the blazers orb of traction lol.
I’m mostly finished with the rear axle all new brakes, wheel bearings and seals. Just waiting on the diff cover paint to dry. The brakes fought me! I was having trouble getting the drivers side brakes to sit correctly, initially I thought the wheel cylinder was the wrong part because I couldn’t get the top of the shoes to suck into their spot. Pulled the cylinder and no change. Then I discovered why that side had no pads left at all! The ebrake cable was siezed in the on position. LMC to the rescue! Swapped the cable and everything set into place after that. Also swapped out the master cylinder, the inside was full of junk.
The more I dig into this thing, the more I realize that low miles don’t always mean that everything will be in relatively good shape. It’s safe to assume that this thing was rode hard and put up wet! I know the year that I drove it, I was hard on it as well. A lot of off road full at high speed, mostly to compensate for the lack of traction aids and highway tires lol.
Deleted the fender flares. Looks better IMO
Driving lessons lol.
Found some khaki paint that somewhat matches the body. I painted it cat yellow last time I swapped fluid, but it didnt go well with the truck.
LMC to the rescue! Swapped the cable and everything set into place after that. Also swapped out the master cylinder, the inside was full of junk.The more I dig into this thing, the more I realize that low miles don’t always mean that everything will be in relatively good shape. It’s safe to assume that this thing was rode hard and put up wet! I know the year that I drove it, I was hard on it as well. A lot of off road full at high speed, mostly to compensate for the lack of traction aids and highway tires lol.
Deleted the fender flares. Looks better IMO
Driving lessons lol.
Found some khaki paint that somewhat matches the body. I painted it cat yellow last time I swapped fluid, but it didnt go well with the truck.
Much better without flares
That’s the plan!
Did some work yesterday. Pulled drive shafts and transfer case.
Front driveshaft is toast…another unexpected expense to add to the pile.
Transfer case fluid didn’t show any signs of concern. It’s covered in a 1/2” layer of oil soaked dirt, that will be fun to clean.
I’m debating whether I should tear into the transfer case. It’s already out, so I’m leaning towards breaking it open to inspect it. Replace the plastic shift pads at a minimum. The 208 in the blazer never stayed in 4 HI, I assume it was the shift pads that were to blame. So I did the right thing and swapped a 205 in its place lol.
Next task is to drop the 4l80. I pulled the main harness connector, as expected, there was a lot of fluid in there.
It’s going to be tricky to sneak it around the exhaust. I don’t want to remove the exhaust if I don’t have to. I imagine if I have to do that the manifold bolts will be a fight.
Every step of the way is a fight with this thing! At least it’s a rust free and “mostly” dent free canvas.
Front driveshaft is toast…another unexpected expense to add to the pile.
Transfer case fluid didn’t show any signs of concern. It’s covered in a 1/2” layer of oil soaked dirt, that will be fun to clean.
I’m debating whether I should tear into the transfer case. It’s already out, so I’m leaning towards breaking it open to inspect it. Replace the plastic shift pads at a minimum. The 208 in the blazer never stayed in 4 HI, I assume it was the shift pads that were to blame. So I did the right thing and swapped a 205 in its place lol.
Next task is to drop the 4l80. I pulled the main harness connector, as expected, there was a lot of fluid in there.
It’s going to be tricky to sneak it around the exhaust. I don’t want to remove the exhaust if I don’t have to. I imagine if I have to do that the manifold bolts will be a fight.
Every step of the way is a fight with this thing! At least it’s a rust free and “mostly” dent free canvas.
I have done it both ways, it was a fight leaving the exhaust on but it was an easy fight with my 2000lbs transmission jack.
With exhaust out of the way it's a lot easier
With how many times I’ve dropped transmissions, I should just bite the bullet and get a good jack. The last transmission I pulled was the NV 5600 out of my dodge. That thing was heavy!!
I think I might try my luck at removing the exhaust. I can cut it right before the cat, then weld v bands back on it and cross my fingers on getting the manifold bolts out.
I am happy with my harbor freight jack.
Did my big rig transmission with it no problem and put the 7004r/203/205 combo in the k5 in one piece
