92-99 Suburban 2500 Questions?

[88sub4x4]

I currently have an 88 burb. but I want to get a 92+ cause I have yet to see one with any rot (I HATE rust) Just wondering what axles and ratios were available in the 2500. I want to get either a 350 or the diesel, but i've heard bad things about the diesels? Also i read that 2-3" lifts are not really good due to steering issues. Any recs on a 4" lift? Will i see alot of CV failures? CV are what make me not want to lift it. I haven't been able to find a beefed up CV setup. Are there any out there? Sorry bout all the questions. Just want to know what I might be getting into before I sell my current SFA truck. Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif

 

[89K1500Chevy]

I have not ever broke a CV half shaft but im only running 33/ 12.50 i have replaced both of mine but due to the fact they were 14 years old and wore out. I wheel pretty hard sometimes but most time i try to Creep along and not to put too much strain on the truck parts. I have been stuck one time where a SFA truck on 33's made it through but i was leadin and pretty much bulldozed the way across untill i got stuck then pulled out on foward by a jeep with a 9500 warn winch. So going to IFS aint to bad and idk whats up with some ppl on here hating IFS. Its not that bad as long as your not pedal to the metal on some 38's. Well 38's just rollin on some Half shafts prob snap them but Trey had a Z71 on 36s all though school. he never broke a cv shaft and he was hell on that truck but it just kept going like the energizer bunney. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net

 

[88sub4x4]

I only plan on doing a 4" lift with 33"s so it sounds like I shouldn't have any probs. Thanks for your reply. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif

 

[u2slow]

Diesels and bigblocks got a full-floater. 350's had the semi-floater.

CV's don't seem to be much of a problem since the whole front suspension gets spaced down off the frame. CVs themselves are a very durable design often outlasting the vehicle itself when maintained. Problem is once the boot splits open, sand and dirt get in and detroy the joint rapidly.

SAS conversions start to look cheap if you figure on a truck that needs bearing hubs, brakes, balljoints, tierods, CVs, and an idler arm right off the bat.

 

[ZonkRat]

IFS held up good under 88SWB for many years.Ran 35-36 in tires most of it's life,only thing could say I broke wheeling was couple tie rod couplers,bent one tie rod at same time.These were after 3in lift.CVs did ok till I went to 38s.Blamed 1st two axles on old age,then next 3 simply blew out side of inside joint.One while on gas pretty hard,other two in steady pull on rocks.Larger 1 ton front holds up better and can get locker for it.Was cheaper to do SFA swap for me. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifer /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[finnd]

the cost of a 4" IFS lift will be around 1400. That alone is a good reason to stick with a SFA system.

 

[98sub454]

ive got 35s on my 98 with a body lift and cranked torsion bars. i love the truck and i have never had any problems with the IFS. I would say get a big block or a diesel. That way you have the 8 lug truck with the stronger front end and the 14FF rear. the 2500s with the 350 in them arent very strong, they have the 1500 front end and the semi floater 14 bolt. they are great trucks and im sure you will be happy with whatever you get
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