So my new to me truck is pissin' me off. Ran great when first got it a month ago, tho only able to drive it for a week maybe. it's a 1996 Chevy Centurion CCSB, 1/2 ton with a 305. PO told me check engine light was on, thought maybe cause of a exhaust leak was reason for that. Fixed leak, can't even hear it run, but light still on. So went to get it scanned, cause in NYS can't have any lights on, Came up with bank 1 sensor 1, and EGR valve. Can't get O2 out, rusted in (surprise) and was told EGR was sticking, just clean it out. So I did that, and then it idled like a pro stock drag car, and would belch black smoke like a diesel. So cleaned EGR again, and now won't even run. I got two used ones from the junkyard, and just replaced one it still won't start. It acts like it wants to, but won't. Was told that the motor in EGR could be bad, allowing to pull too much vacuum. Possible that the EGR from the yard is bad, gonna replace it with the other I got. Really want to get this thing going before I take an f'n hammer to it.
CK5
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96 Vortec issues
- Thread starter b454rat
- Start date
Intake gaskets ever been done? Common thing for those motors. What about regular tune up stuff? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and filters? I'd start with the basic stuff. O2 sensors wouldn't hurt, even if you have to fight to get them out.
all the moisture in our area the past few weeks pull and check the dist cap/rotor . the 96-up vortec first gen stuff like these have major moisture problems and act like timming is 40-50* off of normal . and hard starting and run like crap .
my old crew cab 96 350 was doing this . in the 3-4 years I had it I did 4-5 cap/rotors on it .
also these engines only like acdelco plugs . or you would develop a skip under load .
my old crew cab 96 350 was doing this . in the 3-4 years I had it I did 4-5 cap/rotors on it .
also these engines only like acdelco plugs . or you would develop a skip under load .
If you can get a pipe wrench on it they'll make short work of that o2 sensor
Top end was done by PO, and not sure bout last tune up, usually I do one anyways whenever I get a new to me vehicle. Plugs are gonna be first, they do look lil wet. Maybe loaded up when idling like a race car....It's been one thing after another with this truck. First the fuel pump died, had fun pulling box by myself, but fixed it only to have fuel lines leak that didn't leak before. Then rear break line rubbed through hitting the frame, cause the bracket rusted off. Fixed most of the stuff, just have to get actuator for 4wd to work and visors. Put 8" rallys with 32s, Kodiak handles on both sets of doors, fixed interior handles, old school Warn classic winch bumper. Truck looks kinda cool, sitting in the f'n driveway.....
18mm tap size also for the o2 sensors . or possible clean up with old school spark plug thread chaser with small/big size and the big is the size.
local exhaust shops that do custom should have weld in bungs for a few bucks each . I had to do this on my old 96 with 2 of them .
local exhaust shops that do custom should have weld in bungs for a few bucks each . I had to do this on my old 96 with 2 of them .
Not overally worried bout the O2 sensor, that won't make it not run. I'm gonna give it a tune up and see what that does....
Not a complete waste of money, but didn't cure a thing. Still won't start. I'm thinking somehow it either jumped time, stripped the gear, or the plug or whatever the hell it is, plugs into the distributer or dizzy is cracked. Bout ready to take a ****in hammer to it. I know these need to be timed when putting the dizzy in, I tried on another truck and didnt' work. Don't really have the money to let someone else fix it, not to mention I might get it back my summer.....anybody wanna buy a crew cab short box 1/2 ton??
Checked fuel pressure, that's fine. Doesn't bleed down either. it acts like the timing is off, loosened up the bolt and turned but didn't seem to make a difference. It acts like it wants to start, and when it does fire little bit, it lets out a big cloud of black smoke. Could it be just loaded up from the EGR sticking? Next thing gonna try is pull dizzy and check that and retime...
96-03 first design vortec like to dist cap / rotors and when thay do it acts like timming way out .
also you will need a full scanner to set timming on these engines.
oh ya and seen more than a few with rounded off dist drive gears .
also you will need a full scanner to set timming on these engines.
oh ya and seen more than a few with rounded off dist drive gears .
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I'm thinking gear is getting funky....gonna pull it tomorrow after work...
good news parts stores have the whole dist on the self most of the time.
just open it and check the plastic ear's for the cap screws . lots of them try and glue them back on the housing . DO NOT take those units . the glue don't hold .
just open it and check the plastic ear's for the cap screws . lots of them try and glue them back on the housing . DO NOT take those units . the glue don't hold .
Bought a brand new dizzy, metal one not plastic which surprised me. Has new cap/rotor, and new hall effect sensor thingy. Old dizzy looked fine, gear had some wear on it tho, but not enough to affect anything IMO. Timed engine, installed, nothing. Same f'n thing it was doing before. Pulled cap, checked where rotor was pointing, thought maybe 180 out and tried again. Same thing. Sounds like it's trying but won't fire. Gonna drop it off at buddy's shop, he knows these better then I ever will, needs to clear codes so will pass inspection. Only thing that sucks is he is so busy, be lucky if I get it by summer.....maybe start rebuilding the axles, building the mount for the SAS....I hate modern technology sometimes......
