Hey, I learned a few things myself along the way while trying find references and better ways to explain more clearly how alternators work, and dispell myth about unhooking the battery.It was fun.
In your case a poorly connected alternator wire would have caused the alternator to kick on and off (load and unload) switching the ignition system and whatever else you had on, back and forth between the battery and alternator. The sudden drop in electric power when the alternator kicked off caused an insufficient (if not delayed) spark to burn all of the fuel. You didn't get a code from the ECM because the connection was restored before the voltage dropped low enough to trigger the code.
I hope your rig doesn't give you any more trouble. It's amazing how many good parts get replaced over bad connections. It never hurts to just unplug a suspected bad electrical part and scrape the oxidation off the connections and try again (but a multimeter always works best).
im sure itl break down again soon that's the joys of havin an old truck I guess haha
