What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

99 'Burb Lift and Rear Axle Questions

TerryD

TerryD

Mildly demented...
 Premium
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Posts
5,849
Reaction score
4,198
Location
Covington, Va
I'm not very familiar with the newer IFS trucks so bare with me. First, I'm wondering about a 2" lift for it. I know that for that little amount of lift you'd just do tortion bar keys, but how bad is that for the steering and cv's for very mild use?

Second, I have a 70's 12b sitting in the floor with the same gearing and a good gov'lock. Would there be any advantage to it over the stock 10b or just a waste of time if I don't just get a 14sf 6lug for it?

And third, would add-a-leaves increase the towing capacity of the truck any at all? I'm mainly just wanting to get some ~33" tall tires on it for a little added ground clearance. It'll be pulling farm duty soon and since were looking at basically virgin land, would be nice to have a little extra room under there.

Thanks for any advice!
 
This is what I did to my 97 1/2 ton 4x4 burban

First of all the rear springs on these trucks are weak, and over time they all seem to lean toward the back.

I looked at the add a leaf route, but thought the add able wouldn't accomplish what I wanted.so this is what I just did before Christmas.

I bought some 3/4 ton 63's and transferred all the leafs except the main leaf over to the 58 inch suburban leaf. I pretty much made the 58's identical to the 3/4 ton 63's but with the shorter main leaf. The overload is 1 inch thick out of the 63 and I got about 1 inch out of adding all the 3/4 stuff. Of course I bought a center pin and longer u bolts from napa. Have about 400 in the whole thing. I didn't want to cut and relocate hangers and shackles to accommodate the 63's

I got about 2 1/4in from it. I also added rancho rs 9000s to adjust for when I have a full load. But I like the way it rides with them on 8 or 9. Has the 3/4 ton feel when driving it now.

In the front I cranked the torsion bars to match. Also added the gas pro comps, but don't like them one bit.those trucks are still heavy and the pro comp didn't feel any different than the old Monroes that were on it.

I did all this and drove to Florida. Put 5000mi on it and couldn't be happier....except the front shocks.

I'm not worried about the cb's. They are cheap when they wear out.
 
I'll look into that. What size tires do you run with that setup?
 
31's on a 17in wheel. But will run 33's or the metric equivalent when these wear out. I'm pretty much just running the cuz its what I had.

I know its a little more work, but I feel its worth it.
I bought the 63's for 100, and the add a leaf was 75, so not much more money IMO
 
30 spline 10 bolt and the 12 bolt are about a wash. I wouldn't bother.

You can fit 33's stock if you use the factory 16" wheels. I had nothing but bad luck with my 2-3" aftermarket lift and my torsion bar cranking. I'd put some 285/75R16's on and call it good.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
30 spline 10 bolt and the 12 bolt are about a wash. I wouldn't bother.

You can fit 33's stock if you use the factory 16" wheels. I had nothing but bad luck with my 2-3" aftermarket lift and my torsion bar cranking. I'd put some 285/75R16's on and call it good.
Click to expand...


Alright, so no lift and won't waste my time with the 12b. This is the old lady's DD and I don't want to work on it any more than I have to. I want it capable but reliable is more important.
 
Bone stock, 285's/75R16's, some Bilstein HD shocks, and just maintain everything well. Check all the steering parts.
 
TerryD said:
Alright, so no lift and won't waste my time with the 12b. This is the old lady's DD and I don't want to work on it any more than I have to. I want it capable but reliable is more important.
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same boat as me. We have lots of kids and always hauling some other kids and gear for sports.

I'll snap a picture today and see what you think. Mine isn't lifted a ton.

And now I think about it. I gained 2 1/4 inches on the rear over the worn out height
 
Thanks fellas! I'm gonna check out the steering better and see how every thing looks. Drives OK but I get a popping sound occasionally when braking.
 
I left so much on the u bolts in case I wanted to add a 1inch block. I actual like driving it now. I said before I did the springs it felt like driving a waterbed.
 
63chevyII has the right idea with the springs. In my experience with cranking the torsion bars, nothing has gone wrong, nothing even is loose or worn feeling, other than having 170,000 miles on the parts. And I have noticed with my crank that it sits the same as pickup trucks of the same years, so I tend to believe that the suv's are lower from the factory than the working mans pickup, and a 1" to an 1-1/2" crank shouldn't cause any problems. Just get your alignment done if you do.

10b 12b they're basically the same, but the old 12b needs the spring pads moved and you won't have abs in the rear anymore. Keep your eye out for a 14bsf 6 lug.

I'm rolling on 32's right now (265/70-17) and with my 1-1/2" crank and 2" lift block, could easily fit 285's or 33's easily.

I'm wondering what all is involved in a hydroboost conversion for these things... stock brakes suck.
 
On a side note, my buddy just put a rear end from a 2002 suburban with discs and it stops way better than mine. his is a 98.
 
It needs an alignment anyway. I just wanted to wait till I got new tires. I may do a very slight crank in the front and then the 3/4 64" swap 63chevyII is talking about. I can always buy lowering shackles for it to get my height exactly where I want it. :waytogo:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom