What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

A '69 Build... "Brought to you by Don Juan Productions" Full index added to page #1

Overview Gallery Discussion
Forgot about these.

Talked to Art Carr, and he sent me up a torque converter.

AAA242034.jpg


And, I brought some hookers into the garage.

AAA242037.jpg


That should get me all of the parts to put the drivetrain together now. :woot:
 
Looking great man! If you want the dash to come all the way out take a look at what I did. Not sure if it'll work but in my head it seemed legit... It's good and solid when i bolt it back it now too. Just a thought.
 
Z71paramedic said:
Looking great man! If you want the dash to come all the way out take a look at what I did. Not sure if it'll work but in my head it seemed legit... It's good and solid when i bolt it back it now too. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll take a look.:waytogo:

I didn't even remember you taking it out.

Another thought is to go with a 72 dash with the heater vents too. Just thinking about it though. You think it would be sacrilege to change it out for the newer?
 
NorCal69 said:
Thanks, I'll take a look.:waytogo:

I didn't even remember you taking it out.

Another thought is to go with a 72 dash with the heater vents too. Just thinking about it though. You think it would be sacrilege to change it out for the newer?
Click to expand...

What's the difference between 69 & 72 dash?:dunno: what a noob:haha:
 
That all looks nice! Couple of things I have encountered since starting to use the truck is at the bottom of the A pillar is where the hi beam button lives and it's kinka tougher to twist my ankle to hit it. I know somebody already said it but getting those top dash bolts in was not easy at all actually I think (Ok I just checked I had to weld the drivers side top of dash, the bolt did not fit between the gap.)
 
sponsoredbydad said:
That all looks nice! Couple of things I have encountered since starting to use the truck is at the bottom of the A pillar is where the hi beam button lives and it's kinka tougher to twist my ankle to hit it. I know somebody already said it but getting those top dash bolts in was not easy at all actually I think (Ok I just checked I had to weld the drivers side top of dash, the bolt did not fit between the gap.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Chris. :waytogo:

Now that you mention the high beams and the bottom of the A, I might bend mine plumb. They both have a slight rake forward at the moment. it would also make it easyier to mount the plate on the flat(er) portion of the floor than go up the slope to the firewall.

Still don't know about the dash bolts yet though. My A's are pretty close and I don't think that I could/can get them in. :dunno:
 
Its a nice looking cage so far. Keep it up.

Also, the dashes are all the same. Just cut holes in yours if you want those vents. The factory assembly manual has the dimensions you need to cut the hole. I actually bought all new vent caps and vents for mine before deciding I didnt like the way they look and would be blocked by my cage.


-Brian
 
bp71k5 said:
Also, the dashes are all the same. Just cut holes in yours if you want those vents. The factory assembly manual has the dimensions you need to cut the hole. I actually bought all new vent caps and vents for mine before deciding I didn't like the way they look and would be blocked by my cage.


-Brian
Click to expand...


Duane,

That is one h$ll of a cage. I take it that you are not running with the torsion box's? I still need to figure out a slider system and your pic helps. It also looks like you are tied into the frame. How is the ride quality, vs. not being tied into the frame?


Thanks Brian,

In my head, for some reason, I thought the vents were some how stamped around the round vents. Anyways, you bring up a great point, they simply will not fit. It was one of those things that I've been thinking about for over a year and now it's come time let it go and figure out a new way to blow the heated air on the family. I really need to figure this out soon, as far as the heater goes. This rig will primarily be used for snow wheelin'. I don't want the family to get cold and not enjoy being out there.

The plan so far was to use one of these with the four outlets. Two going up to the defrost and the other two going to some kind of vent system blowing at the passengers.

http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=1103H

40,000 BTU should keep all warm inside, I would think. :dunno:
 
No torsion boxes here. I cut them out, mainly because mine were a little rotted and had tons of crap in them. I tried to get rid of most places that could hold dirt and moisture. The thought was that the rigidity of the cage structure would take the place of the boxes. It pretty much worked but I do get some flex of the body between the mounting points of the cage.

On my sliders I wanted to leave the rockers in tact and didn't want the cage hooked to the body so the body could have a little flex, between the mounting points. It works, although still not sure if that was smart or not. I was worried about putting a twist on the windshield frame and shattering windshields which is why the windshield frame is not attached to anything.

ride quality is better than stock, the weight of the cage, sliders, and bumpers made it a little smoother with the weight on the springs. All new body mounts helped a lot, but then I can only compare it to the completely worn springs, shocks, and body mounts it had before I started the build.

Only the tub was not taken off the frame and all new stuff put on during the build, so hard to compare ride with cage vs not since it had all new cushioning.

I know some people like to cushion the body mounts of the cage with rubber or something like that. Mine is solid mounted. It works both as a highway driver and off road. I don't have a tow rig or trailer so I drive it when I go.

Keep up the good work on your build!!!
 
^^^ Thanks, all of that is great information to have.


My thoughts on the sliders so far is this.

I bought a 2x6 240 wall stick. My thought is to actually cut a 1/2"-3/4" groove where the pinch weld is in the stick. That way I could mount the slider, maybe a 1/4" lower than the box and the pinch weld would ride in the groove. It looks like I could use 2x2 going back to the frame and build two hangers/plates there that would be bolted in. That would keep the slider completely separate from the body for the time being. I could always bring the cage through and mount it to the slider, but after reading what Greg was saying about tying the body/cage/slider to the frame, I just wouldn't want this to ride like a dump truck when I'm all done.
 
Awesome.... :pimp1:





AAA246026.jpg






Spent some time getting the dash in last night. I really wanted to see where everything lines up so I can make my final decisions on where to put my dash bars this weekend..

I think.....I have....A Plan....:thinking: :wink1:
 
A little more done this weekend. I have the A's, B's and C's done now and I also figured out my upper dash bar.

It ended up going a lot slower than I had thought. I brought my friends 69 over with the top on and used it for all of my measurements. I think that if I didn't ever want to use the hard top again, it would be much further along. Couple things that I learned though.

The blazer is a fast back of sorts. I never realized it but there is a 1" difference between the head room at the front of the bed than the back. You can even measure this on the side windows and they will be 7/8" larger in the front. This took along time and some more string, but I think that I have every thing dialed in and can start on the overhead bars this week after work.

Couple of pics from the weekend.

The dash bar sits up nice and high now. It clears all of the gauges with a small 10 degree bend on both sides. The plan is to use some 4" gussets from the dash bar to the A's. I don't know if I'm going to use a second bar now though. Anybody see a problem with only using one bar? The one problem I did run into, was now the dash bar sits directly in the middle of my heater vents. Truth be told, I never liked just the 3" x 3" vent though. I would like to find some thing a little newer (out of metal) that has the ~12" x 1" vents on both sides. I figure I could close up the originals and weld these in.

AAA2471146.jpg



Crappy pic, but it clears all the gauges.

AAA2471147.jpg


And a few of the cage so far.

AAA2471156.jpg


AAA2471153.jpg


AAA2471152.jpg


AAA2471151.jpg


I'll need to buy a couple more sticks today, so I can keep going this week, but I think everything is coming out ok, so far.
 
beautiful man! the work around the dash is fantastic. I always like it better when its done well enough, that you barely notice the cage up front once its in. good work!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom