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A '69 Build... "Brought to you by Don Juan Productions" Full index added to page #1
I have plans to do pretty much what you did with the core and tube.
Somewhere in the back of my mind,
I'd like to incorporate all of this engine tube work into some kind of wheel well. Kinda why I wanted to bring that ~vertical tube fairly close to the firewall, besides it cutting down on the over all length of that slider down tube. I could always go back with the stock ones after a lot of grinder and welder work, but it sure would be cool to figure out something a little different.
Maybe some kind of mat (thinner horse stable mats) that could be pinned onto the cage with some washers and cotter pins, or something. Thought about using the heavy mesh tarps that you see on dump trailers, but I know that would just rip from a branch or something.
Still racking the brain on that one. But, if I could come up with a material that isn't all lame and doesn't look terrible, that would be strong and easily removable, I'd spend the time making a tube well out of 1" to attach it all too.
Any ideas...or is it just a waste of time idea on my end??
Buy some lengths of 1/4" steel rod once you get your fenders hung again...
That's the stuff I used when I was trying out new fender arch shapes, it's easy to bend into curves but strong enough that it will hold it's shape once you get what you like. It's weldable too (quick tacks only!)...
You can build a wireframe model inside your fender that connects the tubework to the inner lip of the fender (or a flange that you bolt to the fender first). Carefully cycle the suspension to make sure your wireframe has good clearances with the tire. Bascially you'd do a series of curves maybe 6" apart to establish a good shape, then connect them with more rod running the opposite way (forming a grid or lattice structure)... At the end, you've got a complete wire-frame template for a "high clearance fenderwell".
Remove the fender, remove the wireframe model and stretch some fabric over it tightly..... then fiberglass a few times. Smooth and sand to your hearts content.... lather, rinse, repeat.
This has been my plan on the "MAW" build for a long time now. Go ahead to try it first so that I can see if it's a winner.
-G
That's the stuff I used when I was trying out new fender arch shapes, it's easy to bend into curves but strong enough that it will hold it's shape once you get what you like. It's weldable too (quick tacks only!)...
You can build a wireframe model inside your fender that connects the tubework to the inner lip of the fender (or a flange that you bolt to the fender first). Carefully cycle the suspension to make sure your wireframe has good clearances with the tire. Bascially you'd do a series of curves maybe 6" apart to establish a good shape, then connect them with more rod running the opposite way (forming a grid or lattice structure)... At the end, you've got a complete wire-frame template for a "high clearance fenderwell".
Remove the fender, remove the wireframe model and stretch some fabric over it tightly..... then fiberglass a few times. Smooth and sand to your hearts content.... lather, rinse, repeat.
This has been my plan on the "MAW" build for a long time now. Go ahead to try it first so that I can see if it's a winner.
-G
That's a crazy plan that I'd like to see you accomplish first, Greg.
I know that mine would come out all lumpy like a bag of potatoes..
Some pics, of very little progress this weekend.
My seats never came in, so it was kinda a downer. Instead I did a little yard clean-up, a little couch time and a little beer drinkin' instead. 
I did set the hood on to see if it would clear all on Friday night. It wouldn't, but I kinda knew that before hand.
Sent out a couple pics to the fellas and the general consensus was to hack the hood. It was that answer that I was looking for, as I really liked the curve to the bar over the dizzy. Once I knew the plan of attack I added the last couple of bars to the cage and called it.
Maybe I'll have sometime this week to start the cuts on the hood.
Here you can see where I need to do a little cutting.
The added bars.
Oh, I did bring home the boys 65 last night. He was pretty damn excited.
I know that mine would come out all lumpy like a bag of potatoes..
Some pics, of very little progress this weekend.
My seats never came in, so it was kinda a downer. Instead I did a little yard clean-up, a little couch time and a little beer drinkin' instead. I did set the hood on to see if it would clear all on Friday night. It wouldn't, but I kinda knew that before hand.
Sent out a couple pics to the fellas and the general consensus was to hack the hood. It was that answer that I was looking for, as I really liked the curve to the bar over the dizzy. Once I knew the plan of attack I added the last couple of bars to the cage and called it.
Maybe I'll have sometime this week to start the cuts on the hood.
Here you can see where I need to do a little cutting.
The added bars.
Oh, I did bring home the boys 65 last night. He was pretty damn excited.
I can't see the pics
Now I can! Nice!!
Am I seeing that right? The rear engine cage bar is hitting the hood structural support?
looks like it to me too. I dunno, seems like modifying the hood is a pretty drastic step just to avoid having to change the bend in your cross bar a bit.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
To make up for my last derailment, I have a suggestion. 
It looks like you could clearance that hood support enough to get things to sit flat. Then weld in some thin rounded tube that's bigger diameter than the engine cage tube to get some structure back. Then add some rubber pads on top of that engine tube to support the hood from flopping around like they do stock?
It looks like you could clearance that hood support enough to get things to sit flat. Then weld in some thin rounded tube that's bigger diameter than the engine cage tube to get some structure back. Then add some rubber pads on top of that engine tube to support the hood from flopping around like they do stock?
Nice work Mike! It's got to feel great to be bringing this part of the build to a close!
Now I can! Nice!!
Thanks Dean.
Yep, it sure is.
looks like it to me too. I dunno, seems like modifying the hood is a pretty drastic step just to avoid having to change the bend in your cross bar a bit.
I really like the curve to that bar. I held up a strait piece and it just doesn't do it.
To make up for my last derailment, I have a suggestion.
It looks like you could clearance that hood support enough to get things to sit flat. Then weld in some thin rounded tube that's bigger diameter than the engine cage tube to get some structure back. Then add some rubber pads on top of that engine tube to support the hood from flopping around like they do stock?
Ding, ding, ding..... chicken dinner for you...
That is what I plan to do. Maybe get some 2" tube. Cut it in half and graft it to the interior support of the hood. I really don't think that it will be that tough of a job.
Didn't think about the pads, but I like it...thanks.
Front bumper is pretty much done and welded. Engine cage and shocks are fabbed, just need to weld it all together with a couple of disco's and she will be done. I'll add some bumps a little later down the road.
All in all, the front is wrapping it self up.
My seats........Well I guess I'll get them some time
. I have a new dash pad to cut up for around the tubes. Still need a heater and Art Carr shifter for the cab portion of the interior. I want to build something like Ryokens center section. Hopefully within the next 2 months be moving on to the rear of this beast and finally be done with all of the tube work.
Then it will be back to all of the sheet metal work.
gotcha. I guess we all know the "do it the simple way" train left the station a long time ago.I really like the curve to that bar. I held up a strait piece and it just doesn't do it.
At least you have the skills to make it fit the way you want it.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You might even be able to bend some thinner sheet around a 2" pipe (or maybe a tad larger for extra clearance).
The hoods can bounce around a lot. The back of mine near the firewall dances up and down 1/2" at least with just minor bumps or vibrations.
scotto0609
1/2 ton status
Just another thought from someone with no skills,whatabouta cowl hood?
gotcha. I guess we all know the "do it the simple way" train left the station a long time ago.
This statement made me laugh pretty damn hard.
Really, I'm not trying to make it hard on myself. I had my bags on the last week or so, first time in like 6 years on one of my jobs actually bangin' nails. I ended up doing a lot of finish trim. I forgot you much I missed it and enjoy it. I guess that is where a lot of this stuff comes from. My guys thought that I was nuts for scribbing and coping all the stuff that I did. But, in the end, that is what makes a finished project a stand out project.
I guess the same thing goes for the arched bar.
Yep, we need revisit one of the 19 threads I've started since I've been here. Really come up with an idea to a problem that I think, drives us all nuts.
The "FHS".
It's not the metal over the two support bars. It's the metal on each side of those that bounce around, that drive me crazy. Never really seen the back end (cowl side) jump around though. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274614
Just another thought from someone with no skills,whatabouta cowl hood?
For a couple of months some time ago, I was on the cowl thing. Looked at a lot of pics over on 67-72. The more I looked, the more I knew that the stock look was for me. Not bagging on the cowls at all. I just think, personally, the 1st gen looks better without one.
Besides, the bar is too long and too high across the firewall to hide on the inside of a cowl. It was my first thought.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
There is always Mosesburb's solution for FHS:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3085053&postcount=447
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-39357
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3085053&postcount=447
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-39357
Good find.
I remembered him doing it and then forgot.
We'll need to get him in here to see what he thinks of the stuff after a good trial run.
Out of curiosity, how is your hood? I kinda remember driving mine and it would drive me nuts. I had some OK foam in there, but it always seemed to be from the four other areas on the hood that would bounce around that were not supported.
My buds 69 does the same as mine did and just bounces around.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
When I brought my blazer home the PO had put OldNavy flip flops to try and silence the bouncing. Now I have those lame, inadequate, LMC pieces on the bars. He also put in some rubber 3/4 inch coolant hose on the passenger side corner nearest the cowl and it's still there. I also just went and checked and noticed for the first time the lmc foam pads run along the front of the hood underside
The center bounce is what I've noticed most on the trail...but only when I am not being bugged by my driver door clanking away because there is no weatherstripping on the latch side.
Unfortunately my door and my leaky exhaust/manifold are the loudest factors for the time being and maybe too loud to notice the rest of the hood.
The center bounce is what I've noticed most on the trail...but only when I am not being bugged by my driver door clanking away because there is no weatherstripping on the latch side.
Unfortunately my door and my leaky exhaust/manifold are the loudest factors for the time being and maybe too loud to notice the rest of the hood.
Finally after what felt like forever, I'm working on something that isn't the winch, bumper or engine cage. I still need to do the final weld on the engine cage, but want to wait until I have a couple more disco's and some more time just looking at it to make sure that I didn't forget, or screw something up.
So it was a Sunday and a day to work on the dash. Ended up getting all of it actually mounted solid and the dash pad installed.
One thing to note is that I did buy a new dash pad. These new ones are nothing like the old with the metal frame work and actual material on the top. The new ones are molded on piece with the bolts molded into the pad.
It took some time to figure out what way I was going to work it, but in the end, I think it will come out pretty nice. I still need to do a little work around the tubes by taking off some more material. That is going to wait until later this week, until I'm sure on how much to take off.
The tool of choice for this was...
Marking it out for the A's to fit.
Starting to take some of the material out of the pad.
Final mount of the dash..
Under the dash I had to add a little to my already welded on dash extensions. I'll clean these up a some more now that I know that they will work out. I have a nut and washer on the inside of the vent hole.
And the final shots. This jacked me up so much to see what this will look like again. It's been along time since I had seen this look. Really excited to get my seats this week and push forward on the interior.
So it was a Sunday and a day to work on the dash. Ended up getting all of it actually mounted solid and the dash pad installed.
One thing to note is that I did buy a new dash pad. These new ones are nothing like the old with the metal frame work and actual material on the top. The new ones are molded on piece with the bolts molded into the pad.
It took some time to figure out what way I was going to work it, but in the end, I think it will come out pretty nice. I still need to do a little work around the tubes by taking off some more material. That is going to wait until later this week, until I'm sure on how much to take off.
The tool of choice for this was...
Marking it out for the A's to fit.
Starting to take some of the material out of the pad.
Final mount of the dash..
Under the dash I had to add a little to my already welded on dash extensions. I'll clean these up a some more now that I know that they will work out. I have a nut and washer on the inside of the vent hole.
And the final shots. This jacked me up so much to see what this will look like again. It's been along time since I had seen this look. Really excited to get my seats this week and push forward on the interior.
95% of the time I don't even think of my project as an actual vehicle....
It has become an abstraction of some kind, a kinetic sculpture and financial black-hole from which there is no escape.
Being able to make that shift in mindset so that you can think of it as a drive-able and functional truck would certainly make the process more exciting and fun!!!
-G
It has become an abstraction of some kind, a kinetic sculpture and financial black-hole from which there is no escape.
Being able to make that shift in mindset so that you can think of it as a drive-able and functional truck would certainly make the process more exciting and fun!!!
-G
