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[big pappa b]

I have that

That's what I had planned with the open headers. But again, I've never done this and I'll do what ever you guys say...Really

That's a no go on the old dizzy. I had this one in the SWL

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/Application/?prefilter=1

 

[NorCal69]

I just remembered you have a roller cam. No breakin oil is necessary for you. It won't hurt, but with a roller cam you're good to go, no 20 minute breakin necessary either. I'd just run conventional oil for the first 500 miles or so and then switch to synthetic.

And it's post like this, that I love this site.


Gotta go. Hail damaged roofs are awaiting my inspections...


Thanks Guys for all the help....

 

[Greg72]

You sir, are invited. What else ya going to do? They pick up your stuff next week.

I'll buy beer...

Might want to send a PM to Scott (4x4HIGH) as well.... I'm sure he'd be interested to help you fire that puppy up. He's got a lot of his own hours invested in that motor build, so I'm sure enjoy being a part of the celebration.

-G

 

[ryoken]

I just remembered you have a roller cam. No breakin oil is necessary for you. It won't hurt, but with a roller cam you're good to go, no 20 minute breakin necessary either. I'd just run conventional oil for the first 500 miles or so and then switch to synthetic.

you should see how we treat the roller mills in the boats.. repower long blocks, 5 minute runtime in the slip, out the lagoon, 4500 baby!

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

The best part is, they think 'done' means DONE.
Like this madness is gonna ever end..

 

[76zimmer]

!

Thanks Brian..


Alright, dumb question for the day.

Water Pumps- Clockwise would be a normal old skool pump with the v-belts, right?

Counter clockwise would be the newer, reverse rotation that I have read about, that you need on the serp set ups..

Anyways thinking about this one. I need the Long, due to the set up I picked up at the junk yard.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1671/

Thanks...

counter clockwise correct Mike....be aware the threads on the fan hub could be metric as well!

 

[NorCal69]

Might want to send a PM to Scott (4x4HIGH) as well.... I'm sure he'd be interested to help you fire that puppy up. He's got a lot of his own hours invested in that motor build, so I'm sure enjoy being a part of the celebration.

-G

I sure will. You remember the original plan when I bought it from you. Throw it on a trailer and bring it down to his house for fire up.

Well things have somehow evolved into not even being able to get it out of the garage for the time being. I still have so much to do, to even make it a roller, that it just wouldn't be worth it now. I hope that he understands. I'll still drop him a PM when I get everything set up and the time is close.

It would be completely awesome if Scott, the engine builder, who built it in 07, knowing that the engine has 6k worth of travel miles on it already, could help start it for the first time.

 

[NorCal69]

!counter clockwise correct Mike....be aware the threads on the fan hub could be metric as well!

I'm just going with the V-belt set up now. I sent the serp set up to Eric for the Dually.

That should mean I'm looking for the clockwise pump, correct?

No need for the fan hub. After reading your thread and how much chit that you got for the old diesel radiator you were going to install, I had to go with the new aluminum with the fan set up..





See, I can read and learn..........sometimes

 

[NorCal69]

Well here is the list so far....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-88513/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12361146/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-98032/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-X1220027/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSP-BLK90320/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-135-8701/

Lost some bolts from the big kit..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7508/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-1201/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/

Still working on the fuel pump and the lines. Still need to figure out AN or NPT, but some where along these lines. I know they don't work as picked yet.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1722/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-650103/

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

Nice list.

 

[folkenheath]

Just an FYI, I hate NPT fittings for fuel lines. It seems like the fuel always ends up eating through whatever sealer you put on it, even when it says it is gasoline compatible, and sometimes you have to crank it down so tight you feel like you will crack it (although I haven't ever done that yet). I like the o-ring type fittings the best for pumps, regulators, etc.

 

[NorCal69]

Nice list.

Thank ya. I think the black will go nice with the VC's and the orange block.

Just an FYI, I hate NPT fittings for fuel lines. It seems like the fuel always ends up eating through whatever sealer you put on it, even when it says it is gasoline compatible, and sometimes you have to crank it down so tight you feel like you will crack it (although I haven't ever done that yet). I like the o-ring type fittings the best for pumps, regulators, etc.

Thanks Heath. Been spending a bit of time looking at the steel braided lines with all AN fittings. Spendy, but pretty cool. Maybe some of Zimm's push locks and tube for some of the other lines, too.

 

[Greg72]

Good quality stuff..... you won't regret that later on.

It always seems to be the "little stuff" that makes you furious.... like an el-cheapo Spectre Products waterneck that cracks on a remote trail somewhere, or an off-brand fuel pressure regulator that fails, etc.

The costs for all those small parts can be staggering, but you won't have to worry about issues...and there's a lot of value in that.

Also, I'm not sure if you've already seen it but most of the hose/fitting manufacturers now offer braided hose that uses a black fabric braid instead of the bright silver braid.... the silver stuff (along with a pile of red and blue anodized fittings) can really change the "classic" look of the engine compartment in a negative way. If you are trying to keep things a bit more reserved, it's possible to do all the hoses and ends in black finishes.

I have also seen someone offering AN-style fittings with a quick-disconnect locking collar feature (sort of like that Lokar dipstick has). It allows you to remove a hose connection without any tools which might be convenient for stuff like valve cover breather lines or things you might want quicker access to. They are sure to be spendy, but if you use a few of them in strategic places it could make routine servicing of the engine a real breeze.



-G

 

[NorCal69]

The hose connections is one thing that I'm really putting some time into learning about within the last couple of days. There are so many options, it's kinda mind blowing. Basically starting with knowledge of a -1, hopefully I can put together something that is cool looking and is superior to the cheap stuff. I'll try to find the black fabric lines, that would be cool. Thanks

I couldn't agree more with you on the red and blue stuff. I just won't have it on this rig. (pukesmilie)

I'm kinda going against the grain on the fuel pump. Sure wish that I could find one that is black. About the only chrome on this should be the VC's. Everything else, I'd like it to be black, besides the block. Three colors in the engine bay would suit me just fine. I guess the firewall will be # 4, but I'm not sure about that either at this point yet.

If I end up with too much of the black, I think that I can easily throw it off by maybe painting the MC in the orange, or something??? Lots of options.


Still need to find an old skool lookin' air cleaner. Anybody have any suggestions on that? Maybe some of you old muscle car guys. It will be what you look at first so it need to be Coooooolll...


That is, if your over 5'6". Other wise you'll be looking at my grill..

 

[Z71paramedic]

I really like the look of my cast edelbrock air cleaner. Something along those lines retro enough for you?

 

[pblaze725]

I recommend a K&N air cleaner.

I thought I had that Edelbrock fuel pump sitting on the shelf but it was a 1721, not a 1722.

It's nice because you can clock if it doesn't quite fit right. Too bad I couldn't get it to work because it was missing a port for the fuel return line.

 

[folkenheath]

If you are looking for what Greg said (black braided hose), I just used that on the fuel system in my regal. It was made by Fragola, they called it "Black Nylon Race Hose". It has a black braided outer layer with a stainless braided inner layer. Along with their Series 2000 hose ends in black, it makes for a real clean looking installation that doesn't make the hose stand out. Also, I like the 2000 hose ends a lot better than the traditional style (3000) that cut the end of the hose, the 2000 just pinches the hose extremely tight, instead of cutting into the end.

Some example part numbers

10 ft of hose - 841006

straight -6 end #220106BL

90 deg end #229006BL

In case you haven't noticed, the end pair of numbers is the angle or the length, and the last pair is the size. Also, AN hose is always in 1/16th of an inch. So -4 is 1/4", -6 is 3/8", -12 is 3/4", etc.

If you download their catalog it will give you the 2000 hose ends that aren't on their website for some reason.

 

[Greg72]

I'm kinda going against the grain on the fuel pump. Sure wish that I could find one that is black. About the only chrome on this should be the VC's. Everything else, I'd like it to be black, besides the block. Three colors in the engine bay would suit me just fine. I guess the firewall will be # 4, but I'm not sure about that either at this point yet.

If I end up with too much of the black, I think that I can easily throw it off by maybe painting the MC in the orange, or something???

You can always scuff-n-shoot that fuel pump with some Ryoken green followed by rattlecan black. Problem solved.

As for the MC / booster parts.... Check a few Google images for traditional ideas. You can buy an Eastwood paint that is impervious to brake fluid but still replicates the look of fresh cast iron. The booster would look good with the traditional yellow cadmium finish IMHO.

-G

 

[NorCal69]

I really like the look of my cast edelbrock air cleaner. Something along those lines retro enough for you?

I can't go with it. My bud, the one with the other '69, has that on his rig. There kinda a nice survival tool too. There so thick, you could use them on the camp chef to cook bacon on. Think about it, it already has a drain hole for the grease and your ride would smell like bacon all day driving down the trail.

Mmmmm Bacon..

I recommend a K&N air cleaner.

Yep, going with the K&N. Just need to figure out the lid first.





Heath,

Awesome link. I forgot that I already had them bookmarked from some time ago when you brought it up in a thread. Thanks for the break down on the size. That will help. It will be easy to remember that way too. They're like rebar.

#3= 3/8"
#4= 1/2"
#5= 5/8"

http://www.advenser.com/bim/3d-bim-rebar-detailing.php

Greg,

Good points on the paint. I should look into stuff that can withstand the brake fluid and stuff. There is going to be some rattle can stuff on the rig no matter what. Thinking of doing the sliders in the Rustoleum Hammered black. I used that on the engine crossmember and really dig the color and texture. I figure those are going to get pretty beat up, so a powder coat is out. That way if I want to clean up the sliders, it should be easy and the texture shouldn't show any difference in the layers of paint.

Cool pics. One's blurry though...

Sorry about the dog toy in the last pic. Found out last night the puppy really digs empty 2 liter bottles...

The carb is an SMI 800 cfm stage 2..

http://www.smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/14/sfID2/9/sfID3/106/productID/858

 

[NorCal69]

Did a little blasting last night..


Here is my obnoxiously overbuilt slider, cage tie in. Sure wish that I was better at making the welds look "Pretty". I know that they're strong with good penetration, just not the perfect flow to them yet. I guess, just keep on practicing...

And set this on the block last night. Cool to think that this thing might actually start some day..

Here is what I've come up with so far on the lids. I think that the finned would be a cool match with the VC's. If I could paint them to look the same , I think that it would be alright, alright.... Maybe find one with a bowtie in the fins or something so it's not so plain jane though..