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A '69 Build... "Brought to you by Don Juan Productions" Full index added to page #1

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nah, I was just screwing around with Ryoken. He put in one of the recent threads how he hates the big macho phrases that people use for screen names and truck names. Still curious if he dislikes white letter tires out more than macho screen names though. :D

The rig still doesn't have a name. Maybe after I get a couple of miles on her.
 
I thought it was funny that your thread title changed 15 minutes after i made that post..

did you notice I went back and edited the name to Terminator so as to not offend you... :haha:
 
That's friggin hilarious. :haha:

I even did the old copy and paste from the other thread and changed the last bit to 69 just so I had it correct. :waytogo:

I'm still good for paint school when the time comes, right?:D
 
eh, you know I'm good with all you guys, just can't help but to be honest.. sometimes I offend, some times I just get ignored, other times I get rocks hurled at my noggin... :doah: :whistle: :pimp: :haha:
 
Well, I put on my big boy pants and suffered through the last little bit of install on the doubler mount. It's been so damn hot here, progress has been really slow. This week it's in the 100's with it hitting 106 on Sunday.

I still have a couple of things to do, but they can wait a bit until I take it all apart again. Probably still going to put a couple of strongbacks/backbones on those two tubes that go over the collectors. Cut the plate up at the top of the hoop a little bit to give a little more pan room and a couple of tubes in the back for the crossmember and e-brake.

I even started the tube work on the pass side slider. Things are starting to look up again in the garage. A couple more hours under the rig and then it's onto the shock hoops, engine cage, batt box and so on. Hopefully I get my shocks by the end of the week. I think unwrapping those will give a bit on inspiration to push forward in the engine compartment.

Here are a ton of pics. I forgot to get some before I mounted everything in, so trying to make up for it now. :D

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When I take it all apart again, I'll fix up a couple of the welds that don't look so hot. I think up to this point I have about 44 pounds of wire in this thing.
 
I think you'r about due for a checkered flag!
What do you say gang?

Soon to be GM of the month?

Were gonna need a poser shot.
 
and people accuse me of overbuilding sh*t! :rolleyes: :haha: :bow:

looks great Mike... big step forward... what's next on the agenda? :popcorn:
 
pblaze725 said:
Were gonna need a poser shot.
Click to expand...

The only poser shot that i could provide is me sitting on one of the front tires with a floor jack lifting up the axle 3"...:doah: This thing is a long way from leaving the garage still. At that time, I gotta come up with plan B, on how I'm even getting it out of the garage. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the plug on the GMOTM though. :pimp:

ryoken said:
and people accuse me of overbuilding sh*t! :rolleyes: :haha: :bow:

looks great Mike... big step forward... what's next on the agenda? :popcorn:
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. That means a lot coming from you. :bow:

Agenda as follows...

Pass side slider finish and in green.
Porterbuilt Heater unit delete panels will be here on the 14th.
Tubes from the dash bar to a flange on the firewall.
Install FUSH units.
Install zero rates front and rear.
Figure out how to install Jessie's flanges on the 60 and 14.
Get jess final measurements on the DS's.
Read about shock angles for the front.
Try to build the front engine cage really close to what Zim built.
Build batt box like yours on the firewall. Would like to catch a corner and mount it to the engine cage for support.
Box support and hydro
Order seats and figure out how I'm going to make me console (like yours):D

That should get me through a couple more months at least. :doah:
 
I've been checking in every now and then. Not sure if I posted or not but your imagination came through with your fab skills on that lower mount madness. Looks killer and great work. Coming along nicely
 
sponsoredbydad said:
SO! How soon is that coming out in kit form?:haha::rolleyes::dunno::haha:
Click to expand...

ashman said:
^^
:whistle:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I really like you guys, but it just ain't gonna happen. :D Maybe if the cab wasn't on the rig, it would have been better. With it on though, every little massage of the tube required crawling back out from under, over to the workbench, take a nip, then back under. This happened a looooooooot of times. :eek1: With it on, I did get to use every last millimeter of space available with minimal cutting of the cab, so I guess it all worked out. One thing that came out cool is the carb. It sits "Somehow" between .00* and .10*. Not bad for all that went on.

63chevyll said:
I've been checking in every now and then. Not sure if I posted or not but your imagination came through with your fab skills on that lower mount madness. Looks killer and great work. Coming along nicely
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment.. :bow:I sure hope that it works out Okay the way it is with all of the fab bushings. If needed, due to too much flex on the drivetrain, I can always run one tube on the drivers side with a bolted flange and lock the entire thing in place. That way it will basically be exactly like the original from GM with the mounts very close together. I'm hoping that I won't need it, but I really haven't seen another one like this so who knows what will happen when I start to flex it out some.

Couple questions for you guys on batteries. I've done a lot of reading on what battery's to install in the rig and came down to the Sears DieHard Platinum, but they never really say what size they're running. I just really don't know what size to run for both of them. Is bigger better when your running two batts? Maybe Marine?

I want to build a box like Ryokens off of the firewall where the heater delete panels are going to be welded in. Should I be looking for the double posts, big vs small, CCA, weight?? :dunno:

P1
Group Size: 25
Height (In.): 8.9
Item Weight (lbs.): 50.0 lbs.
Length (in.): 9.5
Width (in.): 6.9
Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 59
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 740
Reserve Capacity (RC): 100
Design & Construction:
Battery Design: Absorbed Glass Mat
Battery Grade: Die Hard Platinum
Container Material: Polycarbonate/polyester
Maintenance: Maintenance Free
Overall Type: Deep-cycle
Temperate Zone: North or South
Terminal Post Location: Top
Warranties & Coverage:
Free Replacement Warranty Term: 48 Months
Months in Use Pro Rated Replacement: 100

P2

Group Size: 34
Height (In.): 7.8
Item Weight (lbs.): 53.0
Length (in.): 10.9
Width (in.): 6.8
Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 68
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 880
Reserve Capacity (RC): 135
Design & Construction:
Battery Design: Absorbed Glass Mat
Battery Grade: Die Hard Platinum
Container Material: Polycarbonate/polyester
Maintenance: Maintenance Free
Overall Type: Deep-cycle
Temperate Zone: North or South
Terminal Post Location: Top
Warranties & Coverage:
Free Replacement Warranty Term: 48 Months
Months in Use Pro Rated Replacement: 100

P4

Group Size: 34/78DT
Height (In.): 7.8
Item Weight (lbs.): 53.0 lbs.
Length (in.): 10.9
Width (in.): 7.875
Power Ratings:
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 68
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 880
Reserve Capacity (RC): 135
Design & Construction:
Battery Design: Absorbed Glass Mat
Battery Grade: Die Hard Platinum
Container Material: Polycarbonate/polyester
Maintenance: Maintenance Free
Overall Type: Deep-cycle
Temperate Zone: North or South
Terminal Post Location: Top & Side
Warranties & Coverage:
Free Replacement Warranty Term: 48 Months
Months in Use Pro Rated Replacement: 100

Any help would be great on this. It should be one of things that I work on towards the core support.
 
i've always found #27 and 31's to be the best choices. other than a 24, a 27 is the most common battery out there, full size-wise... but 27's give a good bang for the buck powerwise over a 24 for minimal size increase.. same with a 31 at a bit bigger...

I run 27's cuz I get em for free.. every gas boat on the planet pretty much runs 27's.. but also i think it's the best size to power #'s for bats..

I like top posts.. actually I don't even like or use posts unless I need to.. I'd rather just have an eyelit lug at the end of my cable and use the stud style...

you can see here on the right bat, and the boot pulled back, the stud next to a post..




boxin4.JPG
 
I remember reading just last week in your thread that you were running the 27's. It really seems like everyone really has good luck with the DHP's, so that was the way that I was going to head. Going off or their web site, it doesn't show a 27 tho.

Out of these, what would ya pick?

http://www.sears.com/automotive-bat...Design_Price&viewItems=25&keywordSearch=false

or maybe none of those and a better batt is out there?? :dunno:
 
I haven't really been familiar with diehards in the last couple decades, but I do like AGM's...

really what you need to consider more than anything at this point is, what footprint will what pair of batteries have...

with my 27's, the one corner goes thru my well some... so i would take a tape measure, grab some cardboard, and mock up different configs before deciding on which group to run...



http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html
 
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