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A/C Delete panel

Karl Larsson

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Jul 23, 2014
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Thinking about remove my A/C in my Blazer K5! Does anyone used this
air condition delete panel???

* Anyone now how mutch work.
* Do I have to remove anything under the dach.
* Does It work with my original fan motor.
* Anything els I have not Think about?

Any input in this would be great.

Ac delete panel.JPG
 
Interested in this, where did you find it and how much?
 
I had one on my '72. Really nice quality piece. It does assume you still keep your inside heater box and heater core. Removes all the firewall AC, but keeps the heater function.
 
I took out my AC on my 73.

I wish I would have gotten that.

When I do the 6.5 turbo on my 86 I'm going to get one.
 
Just going to put this out there.

If it gets cold, you may not like a non-AC (or heavy duty heater option) setup.

No telling how much is related to bad heater cores, but the AC and heavy duty heater units use a different fan motor. The motor itself has a cooling tube that ducts back into the heater box.

The AC/heavy duty motors move a LOT more air than the non-AC units. The fan itself is the same as the non-AC units as the housing isn't tall enough to accommodate the AC fan which is "taller".
 
Just going to put this out there.

If it gets cold, you may not like a non-AC (or heavy duty heater option) setup.

No telling how much is related to bad heater cores, but the AC and heavy duty heater units use a different fan motor. The motor itself has a cooling tube that ducts back into the heater box.

The AC/heavy duty motors move a LOT more air than the non-AC units. The fan itself is the same as the non-AC units as the housing isn't tall enough to accommodate the AC fan which is "taller".
 
I removed the a/c coil from the box, cut it down flat and made a cover out of some sheet metal. Sealed it up with roofing sealant I had. Replaced the heater core while I was in there. Had to relocate the resister in the box and the relay on the outside but it worked out well for me. I'll get some pics while I'm out wrenching on it today and get them posted up. It's not pretty but works great and no smell from the roofing sealant.
 
I removed the a/c coil from the box, cut it down flat and made a cover out of some sheet metal. Sealed it up with roofing sealant I had. Replaced the heater core while I was in there. Had to relocate the resister in the box and the relay on the outside but it worked out well for me. I'll get some pics while I'm out wrenching on it today and get them posted up. It's not pretty but works great and no smell from the roofing sealant.

Pictures please...
 
Sorry about how long it took me to post my pictures. Hope this helps
20160601_065858_zpsx9unhfw1.jpg
20160601_065755_zpsoli7k8gd.jpg
20160601_065808_zpsdmcmq6an.jpg
20160601_065822_zpswyh004yl.jpg
 
Thank you for those Pictures!
I got the a/c delete panel that I ordered and start the work
changing it! not completly finish yet but heres some picures.
Its realy gona be mutch more room on that side of the Engine now:woot:

Ac delete 1.JPG

ac delete 2.JPG

ac delete 3.JPG
 
So where do you put the resistor and relay? Does the original fan motor fit or do you have to use the smaller one?
 
The orginal a/c motor fits! Where to but the relay and resistor is left to figure
Out yet.
 
The orginal a/c motor fits! Where to but the relay and resistor is left to figure
Out yet.

No cooling vent for the motor? It's shown in the pictures from jfabert, my understanding was all AC motors used that...they are wound different, they spin at a higher RPM. That an AC "squirrel cage" fits is a bonus, assuming that and the motor weren't replaced with something non-AC.
 
No cooling vent for the motor? It's shown in the pictures from jfabert, my understanding was all AC motors used that...they are wound different, they spin at a higher RPM. That an AC "squirrel cage" fits is a bonus, assuming that and the motor weren't replaced with something non-AC.
Dont now maybe My motor has been replaced with on from an non a/c unit???
By some earlyer owner! Any other way to tell if the motor is from an a/c unit or not beside the went hose???
 
Dont now maybe My motor has been replaced with on from an non a/c unit???
By some earlyer owner! Any other way to tell if the motor is from an a/c unit or not beside the went hose???

If I was home and planned to be back any time soon for one I'd measure the actual fan(s) I probably have around. The non-AC (and non HD cooling) fans are shorter than the AC ones, the AC fans are quite a bit taller, so also help move more air in addition to the higher motor RPM.

Looking at your photos however, it appears the new box is the same depth as the AC location where the original fan sat, is that correct? If same depth, and fan *almost* bottoms out on the firewall, probably the correct fan for AC. Normally fan motors from parts stores don't come with the fan installed, you re-use what the truck came with, but if a wrecking yard part, would have been complete most likely.

I was going to say maybe there are some oddities I've not seen, but in the one picture you can clearly see the nipple for the rubber vent hose on the AC box.

Dad ran the AC motor without a vent tube (but with vent tube cutout in fan motor housing) for quite a few years. It did fail, much sooner than I would have expected, but still got years out of it.

Anyone that has gone from a standard fan to an HD heating/AC fan motor can tell you that the HD/AC motors move much more air, if it is a concern for you.
 
I have used blower motors from 70's GM cars with A/C in trucks without A/C--those blowers had a plastic spacer ring around where the motor bolts up,that allowed the longer fan wheel to fit and not bottom out on the housing...not sure if all GM's including trucks had those spacers on A/C blower motors or not..

Usually the A/C motors had permanent magnets,while the non A/C ones had copper windings,but thats not a sure fire way to identify one,some came in both versions with permanent magnets..
 

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