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A/C Question

THISISWEIRD

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So the A/C stopped working completely...

It doesn't appear that the compressor is even kicking on. I can only find 2 fuses and they seem to be fine. What else can I check before I take it to a shop? What else could be causing the compressor to not even come on?

It worked great 2 weeks ago and has been sitting since.
 
THISISWEIRD said:
So the A/C stopped working completely...

It doesn't appear that the compressor is even kicking on. I can only find 2 fuses and they seem to be fine. What else can I check before I take it to a shop? What else could be causing the compressor to not even come on?

It worked great 2 weeks ago and has been sitting since.

Low pressure, i.e. a leak in the system...below a certain pressure the compressor won't kick on.

You can check this momentarily, I b'lieve, by jumping 12V to the compressor clutch... but if that's the case, take it to the shop and have it leak-tested 'fore you go recharging it.

-- A
 
There is a pressure switch near the box on the passenger side of the firewall. It has two wires coming out of it, jumper the two wires with the engine running, it should kick the compressor on. If not the clutch may have failed, or the compressor has failed. If it does, the pressure switch has failed. To determine if it is the clutch just apply power to the clutch itself.
 
You guys are great. I jumped the switch and now the compressor kicks on. Thanks.

Since I have to do the "fill" I thought I would switch to 134. What should that cost?

BTW, my wife thinks it the coolest thing that I can ask a question like this and have a response from some guys thousands of miles away in less than 10 minutes. I love this site!
 
You can get a R134 retro fit kit at the parts store or wal mart its about 30.00 and has everything needed to swap over. you can also get a cheap vacume pump at harbor freight to really do the swap right it costs 14.00.
 
I have converted it myself for less than 50, but that was a few years ago. The cost of 134 has gone up since then, but less than 100 should be about right. In most cases it is the cost of the evacuation of the system that is the biggest expense. Make sure you have the R-12 properly evacuated, and many shops will credit you for that stuff. When you take it to a shop they can tell you if it is actually low or if it is the switch that is bad. If it is the switch, you can replace it while the system is empty.
 
The pump from Harbor does not catch the R-12 and vents it to the atmosphere, and although I am not an enviro-nut, I don't recommend this to anyone. Have that stuff properly removed, then use the Harbor Freight pump after performing the conversion yourself.
 
THISISWEIRD said:
You guys are great. I jumped the switch and now the compressor kicks on. Thanks.

Since I have to do the "fill" I thought I would switch to 134. What should that cost?

BTW, my wife thinks it the coolest thing that I can ask a question like this and have a response from some guys thousands of miles away in less than 10 minutes. I love this site!
Did it actually get cold when you did this? There is a reason WHY that switch won't allow the compressor to come on. It's designed to keep the pump from burning up from not enough freeon. If you have a leak, and the system is empty, don't run the pump with the switch bypassed.
 
This is correct. My recommendation was only to test to locate the issue, since you had stated that it was working two weeks ago. This should not be used to run the system.
 
Should have clarified...I did not leave it like that...I pulled out the jumper cable, plugged it back in and turned off the A/C. I'll take it somewhere to get it fixed.
 
We just didn't want you to do more damage without clarifying that. A compressor detonation is extremely costly.
 
THISISWEIRD said:
Since I have to do the "fill" I thought I would switch to 134. What should that cost?
If you can do it without breaking the bank, stick with R12. R134a just doesn't cool as well, especially in a system that was designed with R12 in mind. :(
 
Ok, just wanted to make sure.

I would tend to agree to not go to R134a, you should change the oil and also get an updated R134a condensor so it cools properly.

A substitute that I like is FREEZE 12. I know most people hate substitutes for R12, but I've used a bunch of them and this one isn't flammable and works pretty darned good. Good enough that I have a 30lbs can of it that I use in my countless R12 systems.
 
These guys are giving good advice, although I have never used the R-12 substitutes. R-12 is over 90 dollars a pound these days, and is too much for my money. But replacing the condensor with a new one designed for 134 is well worth the cash, and will provide great cooling. I have done this on all the systems I have done, and it has worked great even in Phoenix heat.
 
I think I will do the conversion. There was a thread on it a while back with pictures. Anybody gotta link? I can't find it.
 

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