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A/C Question

Justin Fleming

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My 90 k5 woudl have been a R12 system, someone has put the adapter quick connect fitting on the truck which would make one assume R134 conversion was done. If done proffesionall usually they would put the sticker on the truck, but No sticker anywhere. When I took the lines apart to replace the orings they were black which I beleive were for R12. Most of the time I have seen repleacement orings they were allways a green/teal color. I have R12 and R134 but would like to put R12 in it but I am sceptical and I dont beleive there is anyway to realy tell??

Whats your thoughts?
 
I've got a 93 Chevy caprice that I converted awhile back. When I bought the car the A/C was working with r12. When it quit working I put all new O-rings (green) and a ford orifice tube in. I probably didn't need to change the orifice tube. Anyway pulled a vacuum on the system and filled it with r134. Blows ice!!! In your case since its already been messed with I would do O rings and reciever/dryer then pull a vacuum. If no leaks fill it.
 
R12 is expensive, and will likely only get more so and less available as time goes on. This is why most people convert when it comes time to service the system.

Converting has some caveats. Some have experienced problems with cooling efficiency since the R12 condenser is not optimized for R134A. Others have experienced no issues. Of course, you have to make sure the system is completely evacuated, as the two refrigerants aren't compatible.

Another option is to use an R12 substitute like Envirosafe. They seem reasonably priced, but I have no personal experience on how well they work.
 
I suspect the issues come from different climates. When my system was converted in the Burb, the condenser was not changed initially. It would get nice and cold while driving down the highway, that would mean constant air flow over the condenser, but once in stop and go traffic of in the city with lights and such, it would warm up and feel like a swamp/evaporative cooler.

I would tend to thing the hotter air in the desert climates makes it harder to keep the condenser cooler than it would in the midwest areas that "usually" don't see anything above 100*

I had even tried adding extra cooling fans, it helped minimally.

There was one time with my old Monte Carlo that was converted that it actually got cold too, but it's when the clutch on the engine cooling fan had froze/locked up. It was an 8 blade fan I found somewhere and when the clutch locked up, it kept EVERYTHING cool, pulled in a ton of air, of course it sucked the engine down on power too though.

If you're converting, I would highly suggest swapping out the condenser to get the most out of the system if you're going to do the conversion, do it right the first time so you're not fighting with it like I did.

I eventually bought the condenser, which was not too badly priced at around $125 or so when I got it, but by then, all the heating up of the compressor from inadequate cooling due to a condenser not designed to run with 134a had taken it's toll on the compressor and when I finally got to installing the freon, the compressor finally quit.

I haven't messed with it since and just dealt with the heat with plenty of water and kept my driving in summer months to a minimal.

Get the new seals, get the new orifice tube, get the condenser, vac the system down real good to eliminate any moisture, oil it and fill it.
 
I would tend to thing the hotter air in the desert climates makes it harder to keep the condenser cooler than it would in the midwest areas that "usually" don't see anything above 100*

ummmmm.....I don't know....dry air doesn't have the effect on condensers that hot humid air does....ours freeze up from the humidity and ice over and you have to let them thaw....dry air seems to work so much better...but I've never been to the desert....
 

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