A couple (or 3) lift questions.

[Phil513]

So I'm planning (if my first quarter profitsharing check shows up) on pulling the trigger on the 3" lift Martin suggested.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...8P8HAQ&zenid=ccbbe3ac0b8bd53749022b0b82fed818

My questions are,

1) Recommended shocks. Reasonably priced, nothing made of unobtainium or anything.

2) Steering correction. With 4" lifts, they have a dropped arm. I guess that means you can "get away" with a 3" lift, but should i get something, just to be sure?

3) What do you guys think about adding this.http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm

Thanks!

 

[rampage]

1) Bilstein5150 are $100 a each, I forget the correct valving
2) wait and see if you have a lack full turning in one direction or if you have bump steer.
3) with lifted springs you can probably remove the swaybar altogether since it'll be a little stiffer

 

[blazinzuk]

Some sort of steering correction will be good.

Another vote for Bilsteins

I ditched my sway bar could barely tell a difference. Might wanna take it off a drive for a bit to see if you want to keep it on or if you will be fine with just leaving it off

 

[82355]

The Bilsteins.

Ditch the sway bar.

Probably a raised steering block?

Martin

 

[Phil513]

OK, I'll give the sway thing a try.

Before i bought my bone stock Blazer, I test drove one a guy had build for rock crawling, with no sway bar. The thing was terrifying, I couldn't hardly keep it on the road, it was like driving one of those playground pony's that sit on a big spring. But I'm sure there are a lot of factors involved in all that.

 

[Phil513]

And thank you all. I sure appreciate all the input. I'm giddy with my new K5, but you all make it a lot better!

 

[82355]

Just unbolt the ends of the sway bar and drive it around. See if you mind it.

Martin

 

[dremu]

Before i bought my bone stock Blazer, I test drove one a guy had build for rock crawling, with no sway bar. The thing was terrifying, I couldn't hardly keep it on the road, it was like driving one of those playground pony's that sit on a big spring. But I'm sure there are a lot of factors involved in all that.

Soft springs plus relocated and/or soft shocks will do this.

x2 on Bilstein 5100's, love mine.

I think the raised steering arm should be fine for lift around 4" ish, need not be 4" exactly. I'd rather use that than a block under the stock one, which then requires longer studs. This assumes we're talking about D44 or 10 bolt, as I have no experience with D60's.

-- A

 

[Bowtie85]

Did a 2.5" on mine, drag link angle and isn't to bad. So I left it, seems fine to me.


Ditch the swaybar, it's just added weight.

 

[cyclic]

88 burb

Sway bar links, 2.5 lift, dropped pitman arm, drives and handles nicely.

 

[Deuling]

Swaybars are not needed imo.

Bilstein 5100 shocks.

I'd do a drop pitman before raised steering arm. Easier to swap imo.

 

[cyclic]

Pulling the sway bar works great for rocks and Jeep trails, every day driving and what I'd call "dirt" roads, the sway bar makes for a better drive. You could get both by using the ORD disconnects ~$100 but being in Vegas I'd be you'll never disconnect them. So the Zone Offroad ones @ ~$50 are the better buy, keeping the sway bar intact, but allowing it to move without binding. A big reason for the chevy rough ride is the sway bar binding as the springs work. So adding the pivots (which ever you go with) will allow the suspension to work better.

 

[Deuling]

Pulling the sway bar works great for rocks and Jeep trails, every day driving and what I'd call "dirt" roads, the sway bar makes for a better drive. You could get both by using the ORD disconnects ~$100 but being in Vegas I'd be you'll never disconnect them. So the Zone Offroad ones @ ~$50 are the better buy, keeping the sway bar intact, but allowing it to move without binding. A big reason for the chevy rough ride is the sway bar binding as the springs work. So adding the pivots (which ever you go with) will allow the suspension to work better.

With decent shock valving I have got do disagree. I think mine handles awesome on the road. Comparing to some rough country shocks I had, to my fox shocks, it was a huge difference in how much the body rolls on corners or quick turns. Its almost like driving a big car now.


Just my 2cents.

 

[ryoken]

Bilsteins...


never noticed a dif after ditching the swaybar at all on Mutt...

 

[cyclic]

Even ORD ran a sway bar (with the disconnects) on their http://offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm
It's about what it does in a corner. All things being equal, with equal good shocks the truck WITH an intact sway bar WILL corner and handle BETTER on the street. And the one without will handle better off road. Which is why ORD makes the disconnects.

 

[Deuling]

Even ORD ran a sway bar (with the disconnects) on their http://offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm
It's about what it does in a corner. All things being equal, with equal good shocks the truck WITH an intact sway bar WILL corner and handle BETTER on the street. And the one without will handle better off road. Which is why ORD makes the disconnects.

I took a super tight corner at speed last year with Richcz28 riding shotgun, after we got out of the corner he went "woah, that handled that awesome!" and i didnt even flinch going into the corner or 2nd guess it...


Just my thoughts, id take good shocks with good valving and no swaybar, over having to disconnect the stupid thing every time i wanted to go offroad....

 

[dremu]

Even ORD ran a sway bar (with the disconnects) on their http://offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm
It's about what it does in a corner. All things being equal, with equal good shocks the truck WITH an intact sway bar WILL corner and handle BETTER on the street. And the one without will handle better off road. Which is why ORD makes the disconnects.

Also gotta figger spring rate into that (plus the truck's weight) which makes any and all comparisons apples and kumquats.

-- A