A few crossover questions

[possum70]

When deciding on a crossover there are a few things needed that I know of.
Flat top Dana 44 knuckles
2WD steering box
Drop pitman or raised steering arm
Long drag link with appropriate DLEs
Tie rods

What am I missing?

I have a 1978 Blazer
4" lift
33/12.50/15 Traxxus'
Right now stupid ProComp drop drag link

It will be to drive regularly but when I go hunting I want to be able to get back.
I won't do offroad a lot but I want the ability to if I do end up off the road. Nothing extreme.

If I'm missing any info you need just ask. This is what I've come up with during my "research".

possum

 

[Blue85]

You need a bent drag link with the bend pretty close to the pitman arm, or the DL will hit the engine crossmember. Some people solve with with a custom crossmember, but you've already learned about the super short DLEs that are available to let it work with the stock crossmember.

It's possible you can use the DLEs that just came on your new funky drop drag link.

 

[Blue85]

It's possible you can use the tie rod you already have. It might attach upside down from how it does now, though.

Don't forget that you need a steering arm to go on that flat top knuckle, plus the studs, cones and nuts. You can't use a DS steering arm, only aftermarket parts.

 

[Stomis]

The bent draglink is not only for clearing the engine crossmembers but also for interference with the tierod if you go full high steer FYI. Which I would not do in your situation.

 

[possum70]

With crossover and my tie rods bolting in from the bottom and passenger side steering arm top side are there ways of dealing with that?
I know one technique is using a matching DS flat top knuckle. But would it be cheaper to get a DS steering arm and do high steer? I know I don't need high steer but I'm just wondering what the cost differences would be if I'm already doing crossover.
I apologize if I'm not being very clear. I'm at work typing on my iPhone 4 and I only use my thumb to type.

Possum

 

[Stomis]

Get a matched set of knuckles that take the tie rod top down. You do not want high steer on a stock knuckle dana 44. It can create breakage issues.

 

[possum70]

Will the tie rods stay where it is and only the drag link changes or does the PS flat top knuckle not attach from bottom?

 

[Blue85]

Get a matched set of knuckles that take the tie rod top down. You do not want high steer on a stock knuckle dana 44. It can create breakage issues.

Stomis is correct. If you can get both knuckles from a D44, that's the most straightforward. Having the "top down" taper adds the benefit of moving the drag link a couple inches higher, so you're less likely to hit it on stuff. It is also possible to have a "bottom up" knuckle reworked, but not likely to be the easiest path. It's not as simple as all 10b knuckles are bottom up and all D44 knuckles are top down, so you have to confirm with the parts on hand.

Make sure you're not confusing "top-down" with "high-steer" like Jeep guys do.

High steer requires 2 aftermarket steering arms. The stock ones tend to break in this setup, so you would want to use the Dedenbear knuckles (about $260 each). So high steer would cost you like $700 in addition to the cost of crossover without much added benefit. Plus you have to deal with the issues of tie rod wanting to hit the springs, the drag link, etc. Most will tell you to just buy a HD tie rod instead.

 

[Stomis]

The other option is to straight drill the knuckle for a bolt and heim joint on the tie rod. But again you're talking about not parts store stocked wear items. If you go that route make sure you use safety washers above the heim.

There's really no need for that, I would recommend you find the correct top down knuckles. I believe all if not most flat top castings are top down tie rod taper.