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A few questions about electric back windows and gas tanks

76k5blazerr

76k5blazerr

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Question 1: What do you guys suggest to get my back window to move quicker? Is there something I can lubricate in there that would make it faster? Any mods I can do to the electrical system for the window? It works now but its slow and sometimes gets stuck. This is my first electric back window truck so I am unfamiliar with them.

Question 2: My gas gauge in the 89 does not work and I am not sure which tank it has. In 89 they were still offered with a 25 or 31 gallon tank correct? I have been filling up every 200 miles so far and not had any problems but I am wondering if there is a way to tell which tank I have by looking at it, like does one stick down noticeably farther then the other or is one mounted differently etc.

Thanks guys.
 
If you have a skidplate, there is almost no clearance between a 31 gallon and the skid. The smaller tank has a very large gap between the skid and the bottom of the tank.

Seems to be a variety of reasons the rear window won't move well. My experiences have all resulted in having to tear the tailgate apart to "fix".

The plastic rollers on the lift mechanism can get flat spotted, which will lead to them catching on the track. It's a bit of work getting the right components, but those can be replaced with a bearing. The replacement parts are pretty pricey, since they are riveted in place.

If the window tracks are worn (the "felt") it can lead to the window guides binding. I personally think a Delrin block could be used to replace the felt, but haven't gotten around to digging them up. The window felt pieces are pretty pricey, and not available from GM anymore, aftermarket only.

Other solutions I've seen used are lubing the cable, replacing the motor, and running relays.
 
dyeager535 said:
If you have a skidplate, there is almost no clearance between a 31 gallon and the skid. The smaller tank has a very large gap between the skid and the bottom of the tank.

Seems to be a variety of reasons the rear window won't move well. My experiences have all resulted in having to tear the tailgate apart to "fix".

The plastic rollers on the lift mechanism can get flat spotted, which will lead to them catching on the track. It's a bit of work getting the right components, but those can be replaced with a bearing. The replacement parts are pretty pricey, since they are riveted in place.

If the window tracks are worn (the "felt") it can lead to the window guides binding. I personally think a Delrin block could be used to replace the felt, but haven't gotten around to digging them up. The window felt pieces are pretty pricey, and not available from GM anymore, aftermarket only.

Other solutions I've seen used are lubing the cable, replacing the motor, and running relays.
Click to expand...

And don't forget about running a dedicated ground strap from the frame to the motor casing, especially if you live in the rust belt and /or you have corroded/rusty hinges or rusty tail pan.
 
dyeager535 said:
If you have a skidplate, there is almost no clearance between a 31 gallon and the skid. The smaller tank has a very large gap between the skid and the bottom of the tank.

Seems to be a variety of reasons the rear window won't move well. My experiences have all resulted in having to tear the tailgate apart to "fix".

The plastic rollers on the lift mechanism can get flat spotted, which will lead to them catching on the track. It's a bit of work getting the right components, but those can be replaced with a bearing. The replacement parts are pretty pricey, since they are riveted in place.

If the window tracks are worn (the "felt") it can lead to the window guides binding. I personally think a Delrin block could be used to replace the felt, but haven't gotten around to digging them up. The window felt pieces are pretty pricey, and not available from GM anymore, aftermarket only.

Other solutions I've seen used are lubing the cable, replacing the motor, and running relays.
Click to expand...
31 gallon according to the skid plate rule.

IMG_4119.JPG
 
76k5blazerr said:
31 gallon according to the skid plate rule.

View attachment 223886
Click to expand...

Yep.

Gas tank gauge operation is pretty easy to check. Unplug the connector near the tank with the key in the run position. Watch to see if the gauge pegs out one way or the other (or if it's already pegged, stays that way), determine which wire is the pump 12V and which is the fuel gauge wire, now ground that wire. Will peg the gauge the opposite direction if the gauge and gauge wiring from that connector are all working properly. If the gauge indicates proper operation, the problem is at the tank somewhere, and the ground wire that goes to the frame from the sending unit is a likely culprit.
 
dyeager535 said:
Yep.

Gas tank gauge operation is pretty easy to check. Unplug the connector near the tank with the key in the run position. Watch to see if the gauge pegs out one way or the other (or if it's already pegged, stays that way), determine which wire is the pump 12V and which is the fuel gauge wire, now ground that wire. Will peg the gauge the opposite direction if the gauge and gauge wiring from that connector are all working properly. If the gauge indicates proper operation, the problem is at the tank somewhere, and the ground wire that goes to the frame from the sending unit is a likely culprit.
Click to expand...
One of these days I'll get around to it. It's good to know I can start driving further between fillups though. 300 miles now.
 
76k5blazerr said:
One of these days I'll get around to it. It's good to know I can start driving further between fillups though. 300 miles now.
Click to expand...

Pretty good rule, 10MPG should be on the low end of economy, but you might be pushing it. Maybe 250, if you KNOW your speedometer is correct.
 
dyeager535 said:
Pretty good rule, 10MPG should be on the low end of economy, but you might be pushing it. Maybe 250, if you KNOW your speedometer is correct.
Click to expand...
I think 275 would be safe. Last tank I got 10.5 mpg, though my tires are 2 inches over stock (32) so I am probably going a few more miles than the odometer says, and probably getting more like 11.5-12 mpg.
 
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