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A few questions

lectric80

lectric80

3/4 ton status
Joined
Apr 4, 2007
Posts
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Location
Grantsville, Ut
I have recently made arrangements for a set of 3/4 ton axles and a 4" lift, but I have a few questions that I have not been able to get answered clearly by my searches:

1. What do I need to do to get the Park brake working with the 14BFF
2. Will the stock master cylinder handle the beefier brakes
3. Do I need a new proportioning valve to handle the new brakes
4. What do I need to do about steering correction for the 4" lift, if anything besides adjusting the drag link
5. What about brake lines, do they need to be longer or use drop brackets

Curious as to what the members have seen in the past, as well as do/don't do for this swap.
 
Please see my reply in bold type.


lectric80 said:
I have recently made arrangements for a set of 3/4 ton axles and a 4" lift, but I have a few questions that I have not been able to get answered clearly by my searches:

1. What do I need to do to get the Park brake working with the 14BFF
Not sure I'm using disc brakes w/o an e-brake
2. Will the stock master cylinder handle the beefier brakes
Yes
3. Do I need a new proportioning valve to handle the new brakes
No
4. What do I need to do about steering correction for the 4" lift, if anything besides adjusting the drag link
Drop drag link or Drop pittman arm
5. What about brake lines, do they need to be longer or use drop brackets
Longer brake lines needed, ORD's are very nice.

Curious as to what the members have seen in the past, as well as do/don't do for this swap.
Click to expand...
 
Cool. Guess I will check out the ORD brake lines as well as find a drop pitman. I do need to still know about the e-brake, since this is a driver that is required to have it for inspection. Plus it is very handy when parking on an incline, makes it much easier to get out of Park.

Edit: One other question I need answered is what modifications will I need to do to make a Warn winch bumper that is for a 81+ work with my older frame?
 
Last edited:
If you are keeping the 14BFF drums, I have heard that the e-brake cables can be adapted. If you are going discs you will need the eldo calipers (pain to get working right) or a t-case e-brake. It would be really cool if a late model drum-in-hat setup could be adapted, but I have never seen it done.
 
Your brakes should be good. Should you choose you can just stick with your half ton calipers for ease of installation and save a few bucks.

The ebrake will work. I'm not 100% on how my mechanic did it at the time but it should be fine.

I'd go with a drop pitman arm for proper geometry. Summit has em for $110.
 
My calipers are shot, so I already planned to do new 3/4 ton calipers in the front. I will be sticking with the drum brakes in the rear.

Any idea on how to adapt the winch bumper, anyone?
 
Didn't see anyone post this, but you can also use a raised steering arm instead of a dropped draglink or dropped pitman arm. You are going to need to adjust the draglink once everything is installed. You can use drop brackets for the brakelines if you don't have the $ for new lines. Obviously the best route would be to get new, longer stainless steel flex lines like the Pro-comp ones

EDIT: for your bumper question, what style bumper? The Classic? The bumper itself is the same for 73-87 chevys and it actually is the same for some fords (80-86 I think) brackets will be different. That bumper is discontinued, but you may be able to get the brackets still. Last I checked Warn wanted a ridiculous amount for them so you would be better off making your own
 
muddermilitia said:
Didn't see anyone post this, but you can also use a raised steering arm instead of a dropped draglink or dropped pitman arm. You are going to need to adjust the draglink once everything is installed. You can use drop brackets for the brakelines if you don't have the $ for new lines. Obviously the best route would be to get new, longer stainless steel flex lines like the Pro-comp ones

EDIT: for your bumper question, what style bumper? The Classic? The bumper itself is the same for 73-87 chevys and it actually is the same for some fords (80-86 I think) brackets will be different. That bumper is discontinued, but you may be able to get the brackets still. Last I checked Warn wanted a ridiculous amount for them so you would be better off making your own
Click to expand...
Any idea what the bracket differences are? I still have the original brackets for my stock bumper that I can use as templates for new brackets. Yes it is a classic bumper, but I am not going to Warn for the brackets. Last post I saw listed them for like $200 or something, and I just can't see spending that.

As to the brake lines, I think I will go with the ORD braided stainless set. I don't have to be in a hurry, since the install will probably be in Feb. after I buy the detroit locker and get it set up. I am also going through these axles and replacing all the wheel bearings, seals, brakes, drums, u-joints, and rotors, so that I know where I stand when I install them. Money isn't really a big concern moving forward, but I am still trying to decide if I want to pick up new 35's and sell my new 33's, or run the 33's until they are bald and then pick up 35's.
 
lectric80 said:
Any idea what the bracket differences are? I still have the original brackets for my stock bumper that I can use as templates for new brackets. Yes it is a classic bumper, but I am not going to Warn for the brackets. Last post I saw listed them for like $200 or something, and I just can't see spending that.

As to the brake lines, I think I will go with the ORD braided stainless set. I don't have to be in a hurry, since the install will probably be in Feb. after I buy the detroit locker and get it set up. I am also going through these axles and replacing all the wheel bearings, seals, brakes, drums, u-joints, and rotors, so that I know where I stand when I install them. Money isn't really a big concern moving forward, but I am still trying to decide if I want to pick up new 35's and sell my new 33's, or run the 33's until they are bald and then pick up 35's.
Click to expand...
I don't know what the differences would be, I had a classic bumper given to me (with ford brackets) I ended up selling it before I mounted it to anything. I do remember Warn wanting over $200 for them a year ago. I would think that they would be easy to fab up with some angle iron.

I'd say run your 33's till they are worn out, then jump to the 35's. You will need to clip the rear corners of the front fenders then
 
I am hoping to avoid trimming, but I won't know until I get the lift and axles in place and see what the clearance looks like.

Dang it, now I am getting excited about something that isn't going to happen for a few more months.
 
when I was running a 4" spring lift, the tires cleared, but when I was flexing it offroad the tires got chewed up by the front fenders
 
That is good to know, I will keep an eye on it. The outside is supposed to look as close to stock as possible, so I hope to avoid any cutting, but I will if necessary.
 
stunter2boy79 said:
alot of my ?s haved been answered are ready thanks krusty for starting this thread.
Click to expand...
My name is not Krusty, that's my trucks name. :grin:

If my thread helps others, then it is a good thing. I try to consolidate all the questions I have into one thread to simplify my life, but sometimes it helps others as well. Glad it could help you answer your questions. And never hesitate to ask a question, we tend to be friendly and not beat up on people for asking the same questions.
 
One thing I found in my searches about the e-brake, was that certain years have different length cables, but noone seemed to post what years would have them. Anyone know what years have the correct cable setup? It would help me, since I plan to replace the cables anyway.
 
I don't know the years off the top of my head, but if you check the LMC website, there are diagrams of the different e-brake setups based on the year. The early brake cables run down the right and left frame rails, the later ones both run down the driver's side
 
lectric80 said:
My name is not Krusty, that's my trucks name. :grin:

If my thread helps others, then it is a good thing. I try to consolidate all the questions I have into one thread to simplify my life, but sometimes it helps others as well. Glad it could help you answer your questions. And never hesitate to ask a question, we tend to be friendly and not beat up on people for asking the same questions.
Click to expand...
sorry dude, just saw the pic as ur ava n i didnt even look at ur name, my bad
 
BGKYK5 said:
I don't know the years off the top of my head, but if you check the LMC website, there are diagrams of the different e-brake setups based on the year. The early brake cables run down the right and left frame rails, the later ones both run down the driver's side
Click to expand...
Ok, I will check it out there and post up what I find.
 
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