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A Homebrew lift

The Griff

The Griff

High drag, low speed
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Ok,I've known for some time I Want/need a lift on the Blazer, And as most of you know, I usually have a budget of around nothing, so I decided to make my own lift.
For the back I think I will just add to the spring pack, and for the front just some blocks or if I can, flip the springs.
I hope to do about a 2 1/2 or 3 inch total, parlty to clear tires, and partly to level it out some.

My only concern is, where could I get a decent, suitable pitman arm for cheap?
 
Any kind of front block, other than a Zero Rate type product, is an absolute NO-NO! The are bad issues related to front blocks so stay away from them.

Flipping the front springs won't work either.

Trim to fit or wait until you can afford some used lift springs.
 
Why not a body lift? Or a 52in swap. But the 52s open the door for a bit more mods that arent exactly free either.
 
454Sub said:
Why not a body lift? Or a 52in swap. But the 52s open the door for a bit more mods that arent exactly free either.
Click to expand...

I think spending the money on a good set of lift springs is better than the 52 swap. I think the 52's are almost too soft. For crawling the flex like crazy, but anything other than crawling not soo much.
 
I despise body lifts as a whole.

What would the problem with blocks be? Almost all of my friends are telling me to use basically hockey pucks in place of actual lift blocks, that just sounds like a really bad idea to me.

I really don't want/can't to spend $600 on a lift for it, but what other options would I have if blocks are a no-go? 3/4 or one ton leafs?
 
The Griff said:
I despise body lifts as a whole.

What would the problem with blocks be? Almost all of my friends are telling me to use basically hockey pucks in place of actual lift blocks, that just sounds like a really bad idea to me.

I really don't want/can't to spend $600 on a lift for it, but what other options would I have if blocks are a no-go? 3/4 or one ton leafs?
Click to expand...

How much of a lift are you needing/wanting? Blocks are a no-no in general, but blocks for anything over 2-3in is just asking for trouble.

On the hockey puck thing, its been done yes but once again your asking for trouble and can really risk hurting yourself or anyone else who happens to be near your vehicle when its moving.

Not trying to sound mean here but I would do it right the first time if at all possible...if your only needing a few inches of clearance then you might be able to get away with trimming .
 
I only want about 2.5 really, mostly just for asthetics, AKA leveling it.

I have a good line on a set of 35x14.50R16.5 Super swampers mounted on white spoke 6 lug chevy wheels, but I don't know it I could get away with just trimming the front, and I really don't want to have to noticably trim it either.

I have a set of 265x75R16 Courser OTD's, but I can't find a set of 16 inch, 6 lug Chevy wheels with enough backspacing, they are all for newer trucks.

I also have a pair of 33x10.50R15, but it seems BF goodrich thinks 15 inch wheels have ceased to exist, I can't find any anywhere.
 
i think the cheapest i would go on a lift, is find a set of 4" front springs for cheap, and do a shackle flip in the back.

Only thing cheaper than that is a body lift and i think thats what your friends are talking about with the hockey pucks, ive seen guys use them for that, but they go between your frame and body, not your axles and springs.


Lifting a truck is cool, but it can go south real quick if its not done the right way. These trucks are so cheap to work on compared to others, i would wait until you can at least get a set of front springs and a shackle flip and do it right. Then you would just need to make sure your steering, brake lines and driveshaft will still work.

Keep your eye out on craigslist and here for a set of front lift springs to come up for sale, and keep an eye out here for a shackle flip. that will be the cheapest way, and it will also be safe and correct.
 
The Griff said:
I despise body lifts as a whole.

What would the problem with blocks be? Almost all of my friends are telling me to use basically hockey pucks in place of actual lift blocks, that just sounds like a really bad idea to me.

I really don't want/can't to spend $600 on a lift for it, but what other options would I have if blocks are a no-go? 3/4 or one ton leafs?
Click to expand...

Hockey pucks instead of lift blocks? Wtf?
 
Well a good friend of mine with a Jeep liberty did use them for a body lift, but 3 other friends actually said to use them as suspension blocks.
 
Rock what ya got until you can do it right. Just about all of us are on a budget of some kind. Don't rush it and get yourself in a dumb situation with your truck. Wait and do it right
 
Take a set of 52's, cut the eyes off the main leaf. Clamp them to your main leaf.
It's not right, but is tons better than blocks. Should net you about 4" lift on the front

Buddy ran them on his race truck for a while. No problems.
 
ryoken said:
your friends are stoopid...
Click to expand...


What I was getting at. :whistle:

It makes sense as a body lift. But he wasn't referring to a body lift at all....:rolleyes:



I hope I never encounter your friends on the road.
 
Well, if they could help it they wouldn't be on the road, they would have found some mud hole to get two half ton chevy's and a jeep liberty stuck up to the door handles.

Like I said, If I find some 16 inch, 6 lug chevy wheels that would work on a pre-88 half ton GM truck, I would just throw my other tires on it and go, I really don't care to have the biggest tires I can find, I just want them wide and aggressive, actually, 31x12.50R15's would be perfect for me. it just seems like it might be easier/cheaper to lift it and put those 35's on it.
 
The cheapest way to get a 4"ish lift on a truck involves some skill and fabrication abilities which (no offense) you seem to be lacking. But it would be 4" blocks in the rear, and rear springs up front via a "52 swap". THats where you take the rear springs from a truck like yours, and put them in place of your current front springs. But in order to do that, you would have to move t5he front spring mounts on the frame. So that would probably be a no go for you. Still, despite this being the cheapest possible way to go, you would still need shocks all around which run about $100 for a set minimum. I would think that with enough craigslisting, you could conceivably get a 4" lift done for around $250.
 
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