since I am busy as hell, here is a short version, klong version with pics to come later this week
parts,
48 inch #3 steel braded line, with 90 elbow
cnc slave cylender, side mount
willwood master cylender with home made plate onto firewall
I took the will wood cylender and swapped out the push rod to a longer one, by removing the c-clip, you could simply use a off the shelf master cylender from an 89 chevy with hydro clutch, this way it included the resivoir and no extra lines to a remote like these trucks had factory.
if you use the 89 style, simply remove your linkage bar, place it in its place, mount to fire wall with 1/8 inch plate.
for the slave cylender, line up the slave with your factory fork, and use a piece or 3/16 1 inch angle iron between the to holes. notch the angle iron to allow the top to bolt to your engin 3/8 bolt that holds on your bell housing. then make a home made rod, and run a support to the lower piece of the angle iron do it is firms and wont flex.
i will post detailed info, pics and links later, but I would recomend the 89 master from your local auto house to simplify the pedal mount. I dont recomend using a stock slave simply because the aftermarket willwood or cnc brand has a vertical mount, where the factory one makes you mount it inline with the drive train and thus makes it more time consuming and more precision is needed on the braket that way.
with the angle iron, I was abkle to mock up, drill some holes and after a couple test fits had it all in place. I also recomend ordering a adjustable rod with your slave, I didnt have one and it screwed me and left me waiting to complete it.
real simple, nothing ground breaking, but a nice approch to avoid dropping your drive train as well as avoiding the hydro bell housing
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