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I think I would need a cold shower if my 'Burb had that kind of flex... /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
Looks like I need to start savin' $$ again. What is the estimated cost for the conversion (so far?).
whats the estimated cost, and time involved, cuz im really thinking that i want to do this, only prob is ive never Fabbed a piece of metal in my life lol, but i would do my homework for a few weeks before i even made my first purchase,
Looks great Steve!!! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif /forums/images/icons/grin.gif I decided to run 63's in the rear, should get me enough flex, not as much as the coils, but close enough.
As far as height off the ground--- The stands are about 26 inches tall. As far as cost, that just depends on how much you do yourself. I have only spent about $3,500.00 in parts for both ends. It would have cost substantially more if I had to pay someone to design and build it. The main cost is the coilovers about $600.00 per shock including the coils. The heim joints are about $50.00 each. The dom tubing for the links is about $15.00 per foot. 1.5 diameter .5 wall.
how did you learn Design and Fab that kinda stuff up? any classes i can take, or books i can buy? or did you basically grow up around it? or just your own trial and error? there are some Welding classes at the Community College but i doubt that would do me much good when im thinking of tackling something this hard core....
Steve, do you have any more info on your front set up, other than the article here? I am trying to decide if I want to go link/coil on my crew cab. Do you have any closer pictures of the front link geometry?
First I did not have any clue about suspension design when I started and I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. I experimented with the geometry issues using cardboard link arms, stick pins and graph paper all at 1/4 scale. The end result ended up better than the mock up. I basically searched the internet on suspension designs and read as much material as possible on the subject. I also bent Stephen Watson's ear for help on several occasions. My fabrication guy also builds and races sprint cars. He had a lot of new ideas from a different view point that came in useful.
As far as pictures of the front end the best ones are of the suspension mocked up on the empty frame. There might be some of those on my photo or catalog page on my website.
One question though: 1.5" x .5"wall DOM....Is that beefy really necessary? /forums/images/icons/confused.gif I don't have a clue, so I'm just asking. I was thinking 1.5" x .250" wall DOM would be adequate for links, but like I said, I don't have a clue. Thanks
Boss
That looks great Steve !! I was hoping you was gonna do the rear also !! How does it do on the road?(As in the sway on turns) That'll get you twisted up really good !!Maybe I will see you at Indy next weekend.
Bigburb
I will be at Indy next week. Plan on entering the rock crawling event.
Steve
Putting both ramps on the same side would be a lot like the tip over challenge on hells revenge, just a little unnerving.
The on highway characteristics are a little different. The yellow curve signs on the highway with the suggested speed below now pertain to me. It leans on side hills but from the driver's seat it still feels solid. I was only able to lift a tire off the ground on two occasions in Moab. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
Boss,
As far as tubing thickness goes, I overbuild everything. I plated the outside of the frame with 3/8'' plate when 1/4'' would have been plenty. The lower link on the front got replaced before Moab and I now carry it as a spare. It has about a 2 inch bow in it from bouncing off the rocks. Proves that you can tear anything up if you work at it. I also liked being able to drill and tap the tube for the heim joints without welding in a threaded sleeve.