a predicament, help appreciated.

[stevewix]

ok. to make a long story short i am the proud owner of an '85 blazer that is COMPLETELY rust free and only has 31,000 original miles. (relevant info) d60 front, and 14bff rear with a 2.5" lift kit and a really short driveshaft lol.

i recently mounted my wheels and tires (about an hour ago) and i've got a predicament. it won't turn! the wheels are 15x10 8 lug on 2.5" backspacing. (no grinding, whohoo!) the tires are 35x12.5 BFG mud terrains.

as far as articulation, the suspension will fully articulate minus MAYBE .5" in the front and rear of the front wheelhouse. (when the wheels are straight)

the rear, believe it or not makes contact at the top of the wheelhouse but it's so minute (and snagproof) that i probably won't screw with it.

i've racked my brain for the last hour, and here are my ideas, ranging in order from most feasible to least feasible, and i'm looking for opinions on them.

1. bushwacker cut-out flares (trying to ruin the body as little as possible, but this must be done it seems, not matter what.)

2. if that doesn't clear, i'll try a bigger lift, probably starting with ORD zero rate add-a-leaves.

3. or should i try blocks? or a body lift? or replacing the entire spring packs?

i could ask these questions and get 100 different answers, realizing that, please offer me your input.

it is a no-brainer to grind the calipers down and try to fit a 3.5" BS wheel or 4", but that is out of the question now, as the purchase has already been made.

does anyone make a tube-style fender? you know, the reinforced kind with maybe a small amount of sheetmetal that bolt into place? i know i've seen a few on people's rigs, but i don't have the trickery at my disposal to make a set without them looking like hell.

 

[stevewix]

PS on level ground it needs maybe 4" cut from the rear of the front wheel house, and 1" from the front.

 

[ryoken]

slice and dice..

 

[k20]

well, blocks wont help you in the front, because, you cant (well it is strongly recommended that you dont run blocks in front, I dont like em in the rear either.). Bushwackers IMHO dont look that great on these trucks, plus they bust up if you hit something. A body lift is a possible solution, but unless u run a 3" and get lucky, you will still have issues. I would stick on either a 4" (still have clearance issues, or a 6". I ran a 4" w/ 33x12.5's (well, also ran em stock height), and had no probs, put on my 35x14.5's, rubbed, so I had to put on a 2" body lift to clear w/out trimming the fenders. If it was me, 4+2 to keep a slightly lower CoG, but some people dont like the looks of a bodylift so will go w/ all spring 6" lift.

 

[big_truxx]

I would go with a 6" lift all spring. I have had rear blocks and they are not the best. ok to get by with but not the best. I had no probs with 6" lift and 15x35x15 swampers on my old blazer. And boy do I miss that K5 now!!

 

[cbbr]

I'm running 4" + zero rates in the back with 35's and no problem at all. 5" spring in front.

 

[stevewix]

thanks for the help, i think i've devised a way to *ugh* 'cut' the fenders for clearance. i need 4" at the bottom of the fender tapered to 1" at the top. in front, i will cut a flowing line from the corner light to the bottom edge of the bumper.

 

[Stoopalini]

Sounds like you're going to do what I did. I'm running a 2.5" lift on 33s right now, but plan to stuff 35s under there eventually with no additional lift. I trimmed the front fenders like you are suggesting, and it came out pretty good. I used a 4" cutoff wheel, then fabricated a bracket to hold the inner fenderwell back out of the way.

Here's the result:

 

[bablazer73]

I hate to sggest this, But an 8" rim with more backspacing will bring the tires in more. My wifes 89 has no suspension lift, a 1" body lift and runs 33's. I do plan on upping the lift to 2" with new leaf springs. 35's on 8's will fit with only minor trimming om inner edges of fenders. Not even noticeable. Other than that, it sawsall time!!