a ton of different questions.... new 6.2 burb, about to drive 4000m!!

[merlot566jka]

ok so i just got this burb from a member here. very kind nice man! i dont know if he understands how much he has helped me!

anyways, time for 20 questions. Im not a newb when it comes to cars or diesels....been a diesel mechanic for the navy for a while (now an aviation electrical tech), built a couple vettes and have done over 8 engine and ecm swaps/hybrids on fieros.... i just dont know this truck yet and i have to get from florida, to oklahoma, to texas then to washington state in two weeks!

so now to questions.....

oil pressure guage....important...right? lol, its maxed out. typicaly a problem if sender shorts to ground... but read here could be the guage itself (resistor on back) where is the sender, single blade?

washer pump.... was non existant. got one from a caddy, pump works, white wire has 12v key on, red wire 9.3v and 630 ohms continuity to ground....no mater wash switch position, key on or off.....shorted? wiper delay module?

wiper delay...doesnt do anything either. low works, high works. returns to home, no pauses, not flaky. typical gm 80s slow wipers. wiper delay module or entire stalk?

cruise control, no worky. have vacuum at pump and at the cruise control servo. brake switch isnt sticking (brake lights come on when pedal is depressed) no indicator on dash to see if cruise is even on. and no schematics of oem wiring to be found. (related to wiper/washer? maybe they share grounds????)

master cyl leaks from gasket....replaced gasket, modified the spring clip to clamp tighter, sanded the top of resivoir with 320 grit and block of wood. still leaks some. not as bad. anyone have any other tricks?

pinion seal leaking...looks straight foward, but i dont have an impact, can i do this with hand tools or is this like the other rears, meaning like 100 some odd ft lbs on the pinion nut?

a wierd water leak, nothing major. but it is seen when it rains, a couple of drops from the right upper side of the dash. not coming from the a/c recycle duct, not from windshield, not from door switch wire hole. stuck my head into the glove box area, saw the rust streak, but no idea where its coming from. removed the a pillar cover, not coming from the door seal or the screw hole. what the hell am i missing?

slight white smoke at idle from right bank. injecors look oem. ordered new bosch injectors, hopefully its not the ip.



things ive already done in the short time i had the burb,
sanded some, primered it black
hummer intake manifold
modified air cleaner to look like an open element carb style with k&n
made a small oil trap and down draft for cdr
fixed minor oil leaks
barrs stop leak in rad (not sure where the leak was coming from, but its gone now cheaper than a rad for now)
cs144 140amp alternator swap
2 new batts
composite headlight conversion on low beams
h4 6000k hid headlights
new dash pad
coolant temp sensor
90 burb guage bezel for 1.5din stereo
pioneer 3.5 dash speakers
pioneer 1.5 din head unit
premier 6.5 component set with fiberglass boxes on doors
pioneer 6x9s in back
2 pioneer shallow 12s in fiberglass box made to fit behind right wheel well
pioneer and mtx amps
interior home made led dome lights (i was bored and have 200 white leds)
and cleaned the snot outa this thing.

 

[kennyw]

You left out the year and model (K10/K20?) of your 'burb.

oil pressure guage....important...right? lol, its maxed out.

Depending on time, you could always add in a temporary mechanical gauge to get you on the road.

pinion seal leaking...looks straight foward, but i dont have an impact, can i do this with hand tools or is this like the other rears, meaning like 100 some odd ft lbs on the pinion nut?

This requires a lot of torque just due to the size. You would just need a big torque wrench and room to swing it. You can move a mountain with enough leverage (just be careful not to run the 'burb over your foot when you are torquing on the pinion nut).

Where are you headed in WA?

 

[merlot566jka]

86 c10 silverado 2wd 6.2l

everett, wa

 

[kennyw]

I'm about 20 minutes out of Everett... I have plenty of spare chevy and 6.2L parts once you get out here. Plus there is a good pull-a-part yard in Lynnwood (5-10 minutes south of Everett) that is cheap.

This time of year, when you go from Texas to WA, take a route that keeps you down south as long as possible. I'd head out to Reno or Vegas, then up I-5 if you don't have tire chains. That way you only have one pass to get over at the CA/OR border. But if it is snowing when you reach a mountain pass, you better have tire chains. The state patrol takes that very seriously and ticket people for not having them. It is very easy to spot those rigs in bad weather

 

[kennyw]

'86 C10 has a 10 bolt (8.5") rear axle, so it won't be as hard to work with as a 3/4 ton with a bigger pinion. If you can get the 'burb up on a lift it will be fairly easy to deal with just using a breaker bar and cheater pipe to break the nut loose. I don't remember if those lock nuts are a one time use though, it definitly will not hurt to put a new one on anyway.

 

[merlot566jka]

yeah, the pinion seal looks like cake. its all the other crap that i need to get more feedback on.

well ill have to get a hold of you when i get up there! and about the driving up there, ive made that drive many times, i was stationed in bremerton for a couple of years and would drive home every couple of months to oklahoma. it was by far the most fun ive ever had driving. as far as the chains, ive got those, but if its bad ill avoid the area. i dont have anything to get me thru the snow (2wd non-locking rear diff), and really dont have anything to get me out of the snow! ill be loaded with extra fuel, chains, shovle, food, water and the like to survive a week if need be.

 

[imiceman44]

yeah, the pinion seal looks like cake. its all the other crap that i need to get more feedback on.

well ill have to get a hold of you when i get up there! and about the driving up there, ive made that drive many times, i was stationed in bremerton for a couple of years and would drive home every couple of months to oklahoma. it was by far the most fun ive ever had driving. as far as the chains, ive got those, but if its bad ill avoid the area. i dont have anything to get me thru the snow (2wd non-locking rear diff), and really dont have anything to get me out of the snow! ill be loaded with extra fuel, chains, shovle, food, water and the like to survive a week if need be.

I second Kenny's suggestion, take I40 to I5 and go up I5, I am in Northern CA if you need help on the way. You can always wait a few hours and the worst storm will lighten up and they open the road for non chained vehicles.
As for your questions, If the wipers work but not the delay, then it's the module that is bad, and the water leak is usually a bad heater core which could also explain the coolant level dropping. The stop leak most of the times will fix it but if not I have one if you need one.
I also have shop manuals for those trucks, when I get home I can scan and email to you any info you can't find.

 

[merlot566jka]

its not coolant that is leaking into the cab. it only happens when it rains and its a small amount. its coming from the upper right front of the dash area, basicly right under the a pillar and right behind the air vent. its not from the heater core area or even the engine side of the firewall.

the coolant was leaking from the right (passenger) side of the tank onto the ground. i just couldnt see the the trail of coolant to see where it was coming from. i assumed that it was the tank its self or the hose.


yeah, scans of the wiring for delay, cruise and washer would be awesome. i dont wanna yank the steering wheel off until i know exactly whats wrong and i have a new module in hand.

about the drive, i may consider that route! last thing i need is to be stuck in the rockies when im supposed to be reporting to my new command!

 

[imiceman44]

its not coolant that is leaking into the cab. it only happens when it rains and its a small amount. its coming from the upper right front of the dash area, basicly right under the a pillar and right behind the air vent. its not from the heater core area or even the engine side of the firewall.

the coolant was leaking from the right (passenger) side of the tank onto the ground. i just couldnt see the the trail of coolant to see where it was coming from. i assumed that it was the tank its self or the hose.


yeah, scans of the wiring for delay, cruise and washer would be awesome. i dont wanna yank the steering wheel off until i know exactly whats wrong and i have a new module in hand.

about the drive, i may consider that route! last thing i need is to be stuck in the rockies when im supposed to be reporting to my new command!

So are you reporting to duty in WA?

 

[merlot566jka]

yup, uss abraham lincoln. have to be there first week of jan.

should be up there for the next few years. i cant wait. i love it up there!