A whole boatload of doubler questions etc. HELP!!

[Desert Rat]

Ok, so here is my situation now. Looks like I'm stuck with cutting my Corp14 perches and welding on new ones to accomodate the major degree changes I need for the pinion. However, my front is also way off. Throw in the fact that I swapped in a 700r4 and my front CV clearance is extremely tight. Jesse at HAD suggests a doubler to move back the front TC output to lengthen the driveshaft, provide more clearance for the CV, and of course to enjoy the benefits of having a doubler. However, after I install the doubler, I'm looking at adding at least 6 inches of length to the TC setup thereby shortening the rear driveshaft.

So, here are my questions:

1. Does anybody here have a 700r4/NP203box/NP205 doubler setup now?
2. If I add the doubler, I'm assuming I would have to wait until it is installed to see exactly how many degrees I have to clock the new rear spring perches?
3. Is there an easy way to figure out how many degrees to clock the perches once I get the doubler installed since the current driveshaft will be way too long and impossible to install to measure driveshaft angles?
4. 4x4 Iron has gone out of business. Does anybody else make custom crossmembers? According to the ORD site, I need to fab the front crossmember to provide clearance for the front driveshaft.
5. Who makes front 3 piece D60 shims?

 

[steve_kibbe]

what is this going in?

 

[Desert Rat]

It is in a 76 Blazer

 

[rcurrier44]

1. You are realy looking for a 700-to-203 adapter. I don't know if this was ever a stock combination??? Eather contact ORD or Advanced Adapters if you can't find the answers here. The 203 to 205 adapter is independent of the transmission your use.

There are also a couple of aftermarket range boxes that you can sandwitch in there other than the 203 setup. It could be an option.

2. You realy should weight till its installed.

3. The easiest way is to simply use new unwelded perches, bolt the axle in there loosely and rotate the pinion up with a jack untill it is pointed just below the rear output. Tack the spring perches to the housing then pull the axle and finish weld them.

4. Don't know...I make my own stuff. I always thought that 4x4 Iron stuff was overpriced for what they did.

5. 3 piece shims???

 

[bdozeraz]

I've got the 700r4,203,205 setup you are talking about in a 72 blazer.

I got the short adapter shaft from advanced adapters to make the output of the 700r4 like the th350.

I put the ORD shackle flip kit in the rear along with a 2 1/2 degree shim to get the pinion pointed up the right amount.

I built my own crossmembers and skid plate to go with the doubler which I had clocked up 2 inches.

I have 1350 cv on both outputs front and rear. My rear shaft is 2 1/2 inches shorter than the front. I have a spare driveshaft with a long slip yolk that I can use in the front or the rear.

I got the triple stick kit and every thing works great, I love the extra gears.

Brent

 

[Desert Rat]

I also have already done the Advance Adapters short shaft on the 700r4 when I had the tranny built so that shouldn't be an issue. I guess what I need is the NP203 mount that goes in between the back of the tranny and the NP203 box. Then the ORD adapter goes in between the NP203 and the NP205. I'm guessing that the mount that is currently on the NP205 is different than the one the NP203 needs.

A couple of welders I spoke to said that it was critical not to weld on the axle under stress. But, I like the idea of aligining the axle with the back TC output first. I think you are right, a small tack weld shouldn't be a big deal then I can pull it out and finish the job. If I get it within a degree or two, then a small shim won't be problematic. On my front D60, I guess you need a three piece shim set to align it according to the research I've done so far. If anybody had a pic of them I'd like to see it though.

By the way, I have the ORD shackle flip in the rear already, but it wasn't enough to rotate the pinion up.

 

[mikey_d05]

I'm pretty sure the three piece shim setup you're referring to is two shims that drop in like normal and the third you put in backwards in between the top spring plate and the spring pack. This prevents the studs on the D60 from being torqued at an angle. Just buy one extra of whichever shims you decide to use.

 

[rcurrier44]

A couple of welders I spoke to said that it was critical not to weld on the axle under stress. But, I like the idea of aligining the axle with the back TC output first. I think you are right, a small tack weld shouldn't be a big deal then I can pull it out and finish the job. If I get it within a degree or two, then a small shim won't be problematic. On my front D60, I guess you need a three piece shim set to align it according to the research I've done so far. If anybody had a pic of them I'd like to see it though.

If you support the rear axle with jack stands under the spring perches there will be no stress on the housing. I could see you warping a thin tube like a toy axle or a 9" but I don't think you have to worry about warping the tubes on something like a 14bolt or D70.

 

[Desert Rat]

It would be nice to just leave it in place. Any recommendations from anybody on a good place to buy spring perches? I see ORD sells them....

 

[70~K5]

Contact Greg72. He made some perches for his swap that moved the axle at the same time. Then you could get rid of the zero rates with tall perches that also moved your axle location. I'm sure Greg has pics of what he did, maybe on NCOR's site.