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AAAAaaaarrrggghhhh.. More **** I was ripped off on

PhoenixZorn

PhoenixZorn

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
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Location
West Allis, WI
The shop called me today after they lifted the back carpet to install the seatbelts to tell me that they refused to do it due to the condition of the floor... basically, the guy I bought the truck from put down new carpet over a rusty ass bed and floor, so it would look all nice for me to go buy it... Basically it's falling apart. What should i expect to pay for a fabrication shop to put down all new metal from the pedals to the tailgate and weld it in?
 
I don't know but i'd guess anywhere from 2000-3000 because of the labor... maybe more.

Damn dude with your luck i'd stay away from the slot machines for a while... :grin: ;)
 
if i were you i'd buy all the new flooring fron LMC myself do all the interior removal myself and even cut out the floor at least the rear and then if i couldn't weld or didn't have a buddy who could i'd take it to the shop with as little preperation labor for them to do as possible that may help reduce you cost.
 
take the body off and put a truck cab on it then make a flatbed and cage . you will then have a truggy like a lot of the other guys.
 
www.lmctruck.com order up one of their catalogs, there free!!!
good luck!
Or look for another tub....and swap yours with it...may be alot cheaper that way, just more labor on your part
 
sweetk30, I'd love to, but this is a Daily Driver, so that's not an option... Anyone know where I can get precut sheetmetal to drop into the bed and weld it to the frame? All I really care about is being able to bolt my rear seatbelts to the floor securely so that if I ever get in an accident, my kid doesn't go flying past me attached to his car seat going 65 mph...
 
PhoenixZorn said:
sweetk30, I'd love to, but this is a Daily Driver, so that's not an option... Anyone know where I can get precut sheetmetal to drop into the bed and weld it to the frame? All I really care about is being able to bolt my rear seatbelts to the floor securely so that if I ever get in an accident, my kid doesn't go flying past me attached to his car seat going 65 mph...
Click to expand...

the fact that you said the safty of your kid in the same sentence as the bad floor is wrong. the rear floor is the whole attaching point to the frame. if your going to do it 1 time then do it correctly the first time in my book. just my opinon only. p.s. in lots of states if the body isnt proporly atteched to the frame then it wont pass the inspection.
 
You can usually get a whole tub for about $500...if you are tight on money you might consider that and swap yours...or depending on how much the floors are...find one in a junk yard and cut the floor out of it and put it in yours. :thumb:
 
it's not like I'm going to spot weld this piece down in a few places and hope for the best... it's going to be re-welded to the entire frame and body, so it will be as good or better than the original...
 
My next door neighbor bought a vehicle, found the same thing. He ordered all new floor pans direct. Hired a guy to cut out the junk and weld in the new floor. All I can say is it took him a lot of hours to complete. It was 62' Ford Ranchero.


Hey, is this the same rig you are installing the Stage 1 350 TBI in?? :what:
 
yes... it is the same rig... the only part that's rusted out is the rear floor though... I checked that everything else is straight and strong.... And it's a stage 1 carburated... not TBI...

Just got the carb delivered today...


Any idea where I can get new floor pans for a blazer?
 
order that lmc catelog, buy a 500dollar mig welder and do it all urself.
 
Cataloge on the way... thankfully, the middle of the floor in my truck isn't as rusted as the edges... The middle seat belt is sturdy and very solid... I've layed back on it to check, so yeah, I tested it... I was going to rip out all the carpet anyway because I wanted to do some rubber bed lining, now I have a good reason to do it faster... I'll have the carpet out next week, order the parts within 3 weeks, and have it welded in under a month... I hope...
 
"The only part that's rusted out is the rear floor though... I checked that everything else is straight and strong.... "

Did you check with a magnet? Being from WI and finding a bad floor with new carpet, the chances are pretty good there is fiberglass or bondo holding that paint on....
 
I don't mean to sound like an ass...but before I even bought my truck, I had crawled all over it to see what was "up" with it, as far as rust, damage, etc. Sounds like you should have looked at it a little closer before buying it. I guess this will just help you the next time you buy a K5. :)
 
Don't worry about sounding like an ass... I took the truck to my mechanic for an inspection before I bought it... he said it looked good, and I've stood in the back bed without it moving at all.... Of course, we didn't remove the carpet at the time of the inspection because it wasn't mine yet...

As for checking the body over with a magnet... I did that... and it's an all metal body... the magnet didn't fall off even once.... There is one spot at the bottom of the passenger side rear quarter panel that has a 2 inch wide bondo patch... and it's obvious because it is cracked... that was the only non-metal I found on the whole thing, so the shop and I figured I was getting a good deal.
 
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