Rene and Dan, thanks for the info!
OK, got some more info from my cousin tonight:
Truck is an '87, 2wd 1/2-ton, and it runs. I forgot to ask about mileage... His cousin offered to start it for my cousin, and it fired right up.
Flashing right up is a good sign. It tells you at least the basic maintenance has been done and compression is likely within range.
It's been parked for a few months due to some bad noises coming from the rear axle, but it will still move under it's own power. Until the noises started, it was a daily driver. Within the last year, the timing chain set, harmonic balancer, and water pump were replaced, and the trans (700R4) was rebuilt almost 2 years ago. He's got a couple new relays for the glow plug system, a new set of glowplugs, and a couple other spares he'll throw in. Oh, and the body is still in decent shape. He wants the batteries, and a couple interior pieces, and for $300 it's mine. My plan is to get it to my driveway (probably on a trailer behind my cousin's K5) and park it next to my K5, and work on it at my leisure. Not that I have a choice; I'm only part-time employed right now, money's tight, and the back half of my K5 is trying it's best to rust it's way off the frame...
So, here's the next round of questions:
- Is $300 a fair price for what I'm getting? Basically what I'm taking is the engine and all required accessories for it, the rad. core support, the 2wd steering box for crossover, and maybe a couple body items (hood, tailgate, maybe a front outer fender). My cousin wants the pass. side door and front outer fender. The rest will be offered here, then on E-Bay, and whatever's left will likely be scrapped.
$300 is a steal IMO. A running 6.2 all by itself usually goes for anywhere from double to triple that amount here, especially if it can be seen running.
- Glowplugs Part II - I should have asked the original GP question better. What I wanted to know was about the different kinds of GP's, the issues with them, and how to tell what's in there. I read before that certain GP's tend to be a cast-iron b!tch to remove; how do I tell what's installed currently? What's the difference between the different part #s? And what's the best way to get the old ones out?
Most likely the old GP's will just unscrew and pull right out. Sometimes they mushroom at the tip and that part of the GP will not want to come through the hole.
The 9G's, 11G's etc (factory GP's) all were prone to burning out and mushrooming. The AC60G's are a constant duty GP and can easily be left on for minutes at a time without harming them.
- Is there an easy way to convert a 2wd 700R4 to a 4wd, or are we talking about total disassembly?
I am almost certain it can be converted, but have no idea how much of a pain it would be. If your K5 has a decent 700R-4 in it all you should need is the diesel specific torque convertor. At any rate, this might be a better question for the 73-91 board or even the garage if you feel like sifting through the BS.
- What is the big deal about the "J-code intake"? Would this truck have one? How do I tell? If I don't have one, and it's the thing to have, where do I look for one? What's a reasonable price?
That truck should be a 'C' code which is an EGR equipped intake. The big deal about the 'J' code intake is that it is completely open and flows a ton better. Any 3/4 ton or one ton with a 6.2 will have the 'J' code manifold.
If you have time, snag a 'J' code manifold and port match the intake ports to the gasket and blend the bowl as well. I did mine in about and hour with a small carbide burr and an air powered die grinder. The port size in the gasket and the heads is way more 'accurate' than the actual intake so there are some relatively easy gains to be made there.
That is the bowl blend I did. You could go farther and completely remove the divider...
These are the ports matched to the gasket. The gasket opening is 1"x2" and on my intake there were large areas I was removing up to 1/4" of material.
The bead blasting was under $20 too...
- Fuel system. Can I pull the fuel pickup/sending unit out of the PU's tank(s?) and drop it in my K5 tank (34gal), or is something else required? I seem to recall Rene saying he re-used his gas tank on his K5 after flushing it, but I don't recall the details.
Simpler yet, flush tank and use the existing sender. To flush I undid the supply line at the front crossmember (where a SBC mech pump would be) and using a rag and some compressed air pressurized the fuel tank to about 3-4 psi through the filler neck. Basically I'd add air until the fuel began to run out the line, then as it would peter out I'd add a bit more air until all that came out was air. Then I added about a half gallon of diesel and did the same...then filled it with diesel.
- Since I'm not particularly timeframe-limited, should I be thinking about an engine rebuild or anything like that while the motor's out? I do want to eventually throw a turbo on it (like arveetek did), but that's WAAAY down the line. I'm not looking to bomb it out, just something for a little extra "oomph" and to keep the power up at altitude (3-4000ft in the Poconos in PA, and maybe someday out West...)
I'd do the intake mods, valve cover gaskets while they're accessible, and a rear main seal while it's on a stand...unless you have money falling out yer butt. A 6.2 is a bit spendy parts wise to rebuild, so I wouldn't do it if it still runs decently and stuff.
Rene
