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About to dive into a resto opinions needed

jekquistk5

Weld nekid
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Stripping my tub and frame. Looking for suggestions on what worked best for you. I plan on getting the 110 Gal blaster from HF. What media works best for the frame, and the sheet metal? I am in no rush for this but just want to get my ducks in a row.

The tub is an 87 solid tub from Cali with no rust holes just surface rust where the dude had only one coat of self etching primer.


Frame is solid from an 89 has some factory paint on it still and some rusty spots.

So fare my plan is to use these http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/4.5cleanstrip.htm to get most of the paint off except for the hard to reach places then blast the rest. Same goes for the frame.


Here is the tub

IMG_3381.jpg
 
Jess I think that a 40lb blaster will work well enough, so unless you got the 110 lb unit I would reconsider.
try to reclaim your sand...I used silica sand for my stuff, but respirator protection is a must, as well as a hood.
If you blast sheetmetal do small sections and keep your distance so it don't build heat and warp...also could try some aluminum oxide...try to find it at a brick and concrete block retailer.
 
Or just use some medium grit regular sand (they sell it in 80lb bags here) for like 8$ a bag or less and do it in the driveway and not mess with re using.


Or better yet box in the area and build a sand box for the kid and blast over top :whistle::haha:
 
I'm up for soda if it gets the job done. I just do not want to waste time and money on something that will not work.
 
The soda blasters I've used have to have a water source as well....so a different blaster setup?
And its a sodium bicarbinate, which is corrosive if you don't neutralize it (just wash it away completely) then dry and etch prime.
 
you can soda blast dry or wet.... the guy who does our boat bottoms used to go wet, but now he does em dry...

sand works great on anything that has a curve, unibody to it.. jambs, edges of panels, etc... anything with a bodyline near it... as Dave and Rene mentioned, you just have to watch out for the bigger expanses of sheetmetal, like middles of doors, hoods, etc.. it can be done, just need to back off some, do it in sections and move around a lot...

we used to do whole cars with 00 sand thru a 900 lb Titan unit... one thing that helps is remove as much as you can first with stripper, sanders, etc, than your mostly just cleaning it up and putting an etch to it...
 
you can soda blast dry or wet.... the guy who does our boat bottoms used to go wet, but now he does em dry...

sand works great on anything that has a curve, unibody to it.. jambs, edges of panels, etc... anything with a bodyline near it... as Dave and Rene mentioned, you just have to watch out for the bigger expanses of sheetmetal, like middles of doors, hoods, etc.. it can be done, just need to back off some, do it in sections and move around a lot...

we used to do whole cars with 00 sand thru a 900 lb Titan unit... one thing that helps is remove as much as you can first with stripper, sanders, etc, than your mostly just cleaning it up and putting an etch to it...

Cool thats what I wanted to hear. I never really planned on blasting the whole thing just the places I cant reach with the DA. I ordered up some self etching primer today. Should be all set pretty soon. I just have to wait till I put down 30tons of crushed asphalt in the driveway by my barn so I can easily move this thing outside and inside for blasting. :) Hurry up frost laws!



heard about "dustless blasting" a while back never tryed it but looks like it would work good. i dont know the details you'd have to do some research

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nucYBS4B0bc


That looks cool but looks like its going to cost more than I want to spend.
 
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