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ac compressor clutch bearing

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

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How do you replace the ac compressor clutch bearing?

It groans and vibrates the truck and makes all sorts of noise when the ac kicks on. The noise and vibration isn't as bad when I'm driving as it is on idle.

Any clues what the issue / fix is?
 
Is there a good written procedure or walk through online?

Gap and torque specs?
 
Not sure its the clutch bearing.
The clutch bearing is turning all the time the belt is moving. When the clutch is not energized, its just running on that bearing.

When the clutch kicks in, it starts turning the main shaft, which is a different set of bearings and are not really replaceable.

It sounds like your compressor is about to throw a rod or has already done so. Which compressor is it? R4, tuna can type?

If its coming apart internally, then you will have to replace it, the filter/dryer, and maybe the metering system which is probably an orifice tube. They will have a lot of metal particles in them.
Would not hurt to flush all the lines and condenser too.
 
:doah: that is going to be expensive.

Its an r134a compressor. Whole system was updated years ago to r134a.
 
price it all out might be faster and around same price for new / reman compressor . buy the time you add up labor and tools to swap it out over swap in new / reman unit all done. :D
 
sweetk30 said:
price it all out might be faster and around same price for new / reman compressor . buy the time you add up labor and tools to swap it out over swap in new / reman unit all done. :D
Click to expand...

I was trying keep from opening up the system. Evac and recharge is like $150.

Is there a diy way to flush the lines and condenser if the compressor does grenade itself?
 
150 is way to much . shops in my area 69-80 range .

and you can flush but need to change reciver dryer and orfice tube. those 2 collect the most junk.

and if a system is ever open for long time cap the lines as reciver dryer collect moisture in the system . and if open long time will fill up and be basicly junk .

not saying you cant swap it over but just info to make a choice.
 
Ah, my fault.
The R134a is the type of gas, I was talking about the model compressor it has.

This is an R4.
They don't usually get noisy, they tend to just suddenly lock up. There are a few other types, but I don't have pics of them on this computer.

As for the cost, its hard to say. If you could find someone with the right tools, you could do most of it yourself.
We could talk you through it.
You would need a new compressor, some O rings, a dryer/filter for sure. After you pulled the orifice tube out, it would be obvious if there were aluminum particles in the system.

r4a.jpg
 
Here is the compressor I have. Guess its an r4.



Could my engine having super low compression possibly not be turning the compressor with enough torque? Causing the noise and vibration at idle? If I give it some gas or am driving the compressor quiets down.

My volt meter display on my dash goes down to like 8 volts on idle. Possibly the engine is just spinning all my accessories to slow?

20130709_180804.jpg
 
should check for throttle kicker unit. it will add rpm when a/c is on for carbed vehicles. if you don't have this or not working the comp will kick the rpm way down and also the low voltage will let the clutch possible 1/2 work and possible slip / rattle and cause problems.

I would check this stuff first and what rpm's are with a/c on in park and gear with foot brake on . then report back .
 
Being that I have a TBI motor would that still be an issue / fix?

I may have to buy and hook up a tach to see the rpm as mine does not have a factory tach.
 
Well, its possible that the low voltage is letting the clutch slip. One thing, you can pull the belt off, and spin the pulley by hand with the clutch off to see how that bearing sounds.
 
R-4s are famous for grumbling. It's basically stuff loosening up inside. If it only happens when the clutch is engaged, that's what's happening. The pulley bearing is easy to replace, but it's spinning all the time the engine is running - whether the clutch is engaged or not. Look at my disassembly photos here: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307840&highlight=compressor. It's kind of a pain taking them apart. The front bearing could be replaced, but the back one is pretty much out of the DIY realm. The pistons would all have to be pulled and somehow put back together later.

Some will recommend bailing on the R-4 altogther and going with another design, but I have also heard that the new AC Delco R-4 units are pretty good. And of course a drop-in unit saves time and money in several places.

All that being said, I had one making grumbling death noises for about 10 years and it never exploded. I would just drive 2-footed at stop lights to keep it out of the noisy RPM.
 
The r4 is a noisy compressor, but you might want to take a look at your brackets, to make sure they are all tight and that all support rods are there also.

I dealt with a "noisy compressor" for a couple years till I realized one of the support rods was installed wrong.

It went from very loud in the cab, to every once in awhile with the rpm just right you can hear/feel the compressor.
 
If they are noted for being a bit noisy I can deal with that. As long as it isn't warning of impending doom.

Thanks for all the advice. Ill check it out
 
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