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AC modifications?

mudbuggy

1/2 ton status
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Jun 10, 2010
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Hi All,

I was doing the ac thing, finished it all up and parked the truck, meeted the hvac guy, got the house squared away, went back out to the truck and fired it up. I have a large leak on one of the two lines that run to the rear ac system. The leak is within a foot of the rear fitting that is in the floorboard. The vehicle in question is a 1989 GMC V1500 suburban and I have a few questions regarding some 'modifications' to the system.

1. Can the lines just be capped off up under the hood?

- while the line that has a leak in is being made locally, I can't have the open atmosphere able to get in it, I would think that there are specific caps made for that. The hose runs from under the hood about 1 foot of alum to rubber (2-3 feet) then back to alum for the complete run of the body where it attaches to a bolt in bulkhead at the rear of the vehicle.


2. Wouldn't the system operate while the rear ac lines are capped off?


- I would think that it would just be a smaller system or load on the compressor since all components are there for the front system


3. Following the 'capped off thought process' would the system then be the same or close to the k5 ac refrigerant level?

-The sticker under the hood states that 5.87 pounds of r-12 needs to fill the coolant level to the 'full' mark. Cant remember exact verbage, but that's close.

4. The company that I talked today said it will take 2-3 days to make the line, isn't possible for the common joe to bend the line?


-I bend all kinds of stuff what is so different about ac lines


5. Are the fittings available to the common joe?

-Its not like this stuff is super duper secret, but is an ac cert required to purchase


I have other things to repair at the rear of the truck, so the more I think about this the more I like the idea of capping off the lines. There are a few crossmembers that need attention, most of the rear body mounts, the spare tire area. All that metal has rotten away.

btw I have tested the system three times now. the first time I couldn't hold a vacuum at all. I found that one of the two fitting going to the ( can't remember the name at this point in time) thingy in front of the radiator had a broken off fitting. Couple of weeks later I tested it again Found the orings on the back of the compressor were leaking. Last night I pulled vacuum on it down to 28, went to work, came home put the guage set on it, it still had vacuum on it but went up to 15. thought what the hell (again) and loaded it up. Can't find the leak without the compressor working right? Found the leak on the smaller of the two lines running to the rear system.

Pic included

ac leak 1.jpg

lines in question.jpg

leak in ac.jpg

134 used.jpg
 
You could get some lines up front for a truck not equipped with rear ac and delete it that way or just get the system functioning properly.
 
If you can find the leak, just duct tape it up while you wait for the new line set. Without the pressure differential there is nothing driving dirt and moisture in. Then once the parts are replaced draw a good vacuum for 20 minutes or so and it should be good.

Is it leaking in the middle of a hard line? That could probably be brazed. As for the charge level, you don't really have to know the perfect weight of refrigerant. You can charge with the gauges until the compressor is running 100% (windows open, fan on high). The pressure should be sort of flat at this point as you add more. If it starts to go up again, you have overcharged a little. I'm sure you can find a more scientific method, but getting the compressor to 100% and then about 1/2 can more usually works for me.
 
Got to work today and hit the gm computer hard for a couple of hours, then carried on. Got home and hit the LMC catalog for about 20 minutes. Does anybody else see, it looks like the blazer system is the same for the burban. I mean if you have a suburban without front ac then you have a blazer ac system. I think I'm going to call LMC

Blue-
yea I found the leak about a foot in front of the REAR bumper in the smaller of the two aluminum lines going to the rear ac unit.

Duct tape is going to keep road debris from getting in there. I guess I can stay tie a zip lock bag over it and the wrap it with duct tape. Ya good idea!


Zombie - damn, it took me all day to figure that out, thanks, how you put it, just didn't sink in! My bad!!!
Think that's what I will do for now, probably got a few weeks of welding on the rear end anyway. So what is the charge for the freon for a blazer without rear ac?
 
89 blazer with 350.
A/C Refrigerant Type and Capacity;Kilograms 1.1 Ounces 40 Refrigerant r-12
 
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