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AC question

beerguy

beerguy

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Posts
49
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Location
Louisburg NC
So when I purchased the 84 the compressor had been removed, much to my surprise everything and been very well capped and sealed off. What do you think about putting new condenser, lines, and compressor in? I know the older systems do not cool near as well as the newer systems if I up graded but just really don't need it ice cold, just wanna take the edge off. Plus I don't have a $1k to put in to that part of the project, got other things to put that towards!
 
beerguy said:
So when I purchased the 84 the compressor had been removed, much to my surprise everything and been very well capped and sealed off. What do you think about putting new condenser, lines, and compressor in? I know the older systems do not cool near as well as the newer systems if I up graded but just really don't need it ice cold, just wanna take the edge off. Plus I don't have a $1k to put in to that part of the project, got other things to put that towards!
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I would put a new dryer and compressor, do a good vacuum, if everything holds I would run it
 
If you don't want to put the money out on a condenser, try the one you have. But like @imiceman44 said, change the accumulator/ dryer. @500$k5 put a ferd blue orifice tube in his and has liked the results.
 
The GM tube has an .072 orifice , and the blue ferd one has an .067 orifice. It just makes it a little colder at low rpm.
 
Lost the low side cycling switch, after Moab. Had to jumper the switch, for A/C. It went down in temp, so far, that it froze the A/C evaporator up completely! LOL
 
500$k5 said:
Lost the low side cycling switch, after Moab. Had to jumper the switch, for A/C. It went down in temp, so far, that it froze the A/C evaporator up completely! LOL
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thats what the cycling switch does, it prevents freeze up by shutting off the compressor when the low side gets too low(too cold) and then starting it again when the pressure comes back up. Your AC would have froze up no matter what orifice tube you had in there.
 
TreeFarm said:
thats what the cycling switch does, it prevents freeze up by shutting off the compressor when the low side gets too low(too cold) and then starting it again when the pressure comes back up. Your AC would have froze up no matter what orifice tube you had in there.
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Yup, he knows that, but it was better than a hot ride home!
Which is why he posted LOL!
:haha:
 
Well going today to pick up the parts. nothing else to do today perfect day to be working in the garage with the hurricane coming through here. Good day for wrenching and beer drinking! As long as the power stays on!
 
if your talking about the switch on the dryer cannister, it is adjustable. Should be a screw visible when you remove the connector.
 
beerguy said:
Well going today to pick up the parts. nothing else to do today perfect day to be working in the garage with the hurricane coming through here. Good day for wrenching and beer drinking! As long as the power stays on!
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lol just noticed we're neighbors...how'd you fare with the storm?
 
Not bad at all power flickered alot rained about 9 inches or so. Really feeling for the guys far east it was pretty bad for some. Have a friend lives in Southport ended up with almost 3' of water inside. How did you guys fare? What part of Eastern NC are you from?
 
Most of my A/C system is still stock 1985. I replaced the compressor and hoses when I went serpentine. I also run the compressor clutch off a relay which lets the cycling switch last pretty much forever. The newer Delco R-4s are pretty nice and a lot more displacement than the Sanden alternatives. The factory condensor is very large, so the stock setup can work OK as long as you have good airflow. There are better refrigerants than R-134, but that does work and is unbeatable in availability.
 
@Blue85 I don't completely agree with your statement about the new Delco R4 compressors. I bought one last year for my '95, and it's noisy as crap when the head pressure comes up and I have to idle at a stoplight. Sounds like the engine is coming apart!
I didn't try to check production date on it.
 
Hello My system mainly stock except change over to 134 by original owner prior to my purchase. I had the system gone over vacuumed out then install 134 again. It got slightly cool but not cold. Right now the lines look good and just figure cleaning them out. Where would be best place to purchase the other parts accumulator,orffic , o rings and such. I might just get as much new that I can. I also have about 20lbs of R12 in a can. Should I reinstall that or just be easier to stick with R 134. I wouldn’t be installing the Freon just assembling the system.
 
JOES89K5 said:
Hello My system mainly stock except change over to 134 by original owner prior to my purchase. I had the system gone over vacuumed out then install 134 again. It got slightly cool but not cold. Right now the lines look good and just figure cleaning them out. Where would be best place to purchase the other parts accumulator,orffic , o rings and such. I might just get as much new that I can. I also have about 20lbs of R12 in a can. Should I reinstall that or just be easier to stick with R 134. I wouldn’t be installing the Freon just assembling the system.
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If you want to go back to r12 I believe you need to change the dryer for sure and possibly all the o rings.
I know going to r134 you need to change them but not sure in this case.
Dryer for sure and a vacuum to remove any trace of the oil.
R12 uses a different oil not compatible with r134
 
JOES89K5 said:
Hello My system mainly stock except change over to 134 by original owner prior to my purchase. I had the system gone over vacuumed out then install 134 again. It got slightly cool but not cold. Right now the lines look good and just figure cleaning them out. Where would be best place to purchase the other parts accumulator,orffic , o rings and such. I might just get as much new that I can. I also have about 20lbs of R12 in a can. Should I reinstall that or just be easier to stick with R 134. I wouldn’t be installing the Freon just assembling the system.
Click to expand...
As for making r134 better I know a good cross flow condenser makes a difference and a different orifice tube, I believe I heard the Ford tube is smaller orifice gets a bigger pressure differential so gets colder
 
Hello if I can get it cold I will stick with R134 because of its availability. I will do what I need to get it cold. Just need any part or model numbers of Parts.
 
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