Accelerator Cable snapped - having issues finding correct replacement

[Mikey von]

My accelerator cable snapped a few weeks back. I went to Napa and purchased the one their computer said was correct. It was too short and the eyelet on the IP side is incorrect. The length is probably under 1" too short. I could hook it to the IP, but it would be at a very high idle. Truck is '89 Suburban with 6.2L TD.

This was the same part number that I received from Napa that did not fit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...301319&jsn=505

I then ordered this one (thru summit but same brand and part number):

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...301319&jsn=504

It turned out that it is exactly the same length and eyelet as the first, even though it is listed as being 3/4" longer and the picture shows a different eyelet on the IP side.

Did summit/pioneer get it wrong? Really I don't care, I just hate having a $15 part keep me from driving my beast!

Help! What is the correct part?

 

[pblaze725]

My accelerator cable snapped a few weeks back. I went to Napa and purchased the one their computer said was correct. It was too short and the eyelet on the IP side is incorrect. The length is probably under 1" too short. I could hook it to the IP, but it would be at a very high idle. Truck is '89 Suburban with 6.2L TD.

This was the same part number that I received from Napa that did not fit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...301319&jsn=505

I then ordered this one (thru summit but same brand and part number):

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...301319&jsn=504

It turned out that it is exactly the same length and eyelet as the first, even though it is listed as being 3/4" longer and the picture shows a different eyelet on the IP side.

Did summit/pioneer get it wrong? Really I don't care, I just hate having a $15 part keep me from driving my beast!

Help! What is the correct part?

I'm probably not much help but I checked Chevy Classic parts and came up with this:



There were a few others for an '89 but they said it was for a carb.


Here's a link:

http://www.classicparts.com/mobile/1988-95-Accelerator-Cable-Gas/productinfo/89-7511/

 

[diesel4me]

But his truck IS a 6.2 diesel,according to his post...and "TD" I assume means turbo diesel,which may use a custom cable,since Banks are an add on unit...might have to contact them and see if they have any idea if a non-stock cable was used on the turbo conversions..

I used to sell Pioneer and Dorman cables at the parts stores years ago--often their listings were "wrong",or the cables were "universal" fit to allow one to fit many applications,and in some cases didn't fit..

 

[Stomis]

Spend the coin on the lokar cable and cut it to fit. Its money well spent. The factory cables are junk, even new, and no one realizes it until you replace one with a lokar and the pedal is twice as easy to push.

 

[pblaze725]

My fault, I totally read it wrong.

Anyway a search on Napa pulls up part# BK 6101408

Balkamp brand

 

[Mikey von]

I'm probably not much help but I checked Chevy Classic parts and came up with this:

View attachment 198293

There were a few others for an '89 but they said it was for a carb.


Here's a link:

http://www.classicparts.com/mobile/1988-95-Accelerator-Cable-Gas/productinfo/89-7511/

Definitely needs to be a diesel one! Thanks for the link though.

But his truck IS a 6.2 diesel,according to his post...and "TD" I assume means turbo diesel,which may use a custom cable,since Banks are an add on unit...might have to contact them and see if they have any idea if a non-stock cable was used on the turbo conversions..

I used to sell Pioneer and Dorman cables at the parts stores years ago--often their listings were "wrong",or the cables were "universal" fit to allow one to fit many applications,and in some cases didn't fit..

My stock cable was the one that broke, so no special part needed! The Pioneer and Napa cables definitely do not fit. Eye hole on IP side is wrong on both.

Spend the coin on the lokar cable and cut it to fit. Its money well spent. The factory cables are junk, even new, and no one realizes it until you replace one with a lokar and the pedal is twice as easy to push.

Now you got me interested! I assume somewhat pricey? This may be where I end up.

My fault, I totally read it wrong.

Anyway a search on Napa pulls up part# BK 6101408

Balkamp brand

View attachment 198299

Yup, tried that napa one. Same exact thing as Pioneer.

 

[Stomis]

Definitely needs to be a diesel one! Thanks for the link though.



My stock cable was the one that broke, so no special part needed! The Pioneer and Napa cables definitely do not fit. Eye hole on IP side is wrong on both.



Now you got me interested! I assume somewhat pricey? This may be where I end up.



Yup, tried that napa one. Same exact thing as Pioneer.

Roughly $60-$80 depend on length and what its made for.

 

[Mikey von]

I went ahead and filed off the crimped ferule from the accelerator cable as per this link: http://www.motormayhem.net/2015/03/...ottle-cable-fitment-problems-on-6-2l-diesels/ I had issues and of course frayed a few strands. After trying a few things, I ended up using a fine grinder/polisher from my dremel tool. It made it smooth, so I am running with it for now. I also had to drill out the eyelet on the IP side, as it would not fit on the IP (my stock one had a larger eye hole).

Now, I have a stalling issue which I think it is due to my idle speed being too low. It idles fine. If I rev it up and let off the gas, it will just die (like a 2-3 shift). I assume that the old cable was just a tad shorter and was not allowing the IP to completely reset. Now, with the slightly longer cable it is idling lower?

 

[Mikey von]

Roughly $60-$80 depend on length and what its made for.

Not bad at all. Will definitely give it a look.

 

[sweetk30]

I have a stock cable from a 83 with cruise .

can get it out and check if it will work for you .

let me know .

 

[Mikey von]

I have a stock cable from a 83 with cruise .

can get it out and check if it will work for you .

let me know .

Worth a look when you have time.

 

[diesel4me]

I hope my accelerator cable(s) dont snap,after reading this..

If they do,I'd be tempted to just replace the wire rope itself..

I have put new cable inside used housings on lawn mower control cables before,when the correct replacement was not available,and the old housing was still OK,just the cable itself had frayed and broken..

I was able to buy cable by the foot at a hardware store off a spool,that was just like what you'd see on bicycle brake cables--I had to invent new ends,on the end with an eyelet I brazed on a small screw eye,the other end just had a "z" bend crimp fitting,but I was able to use a brass "barrel bolt" or cable stop at that end instead..(see below)..
I used the torch to melt the strands together or a dab of braze,so the cable could be slid into the old housing..

 

[Mikey von]

I bumped the idle up a hair and the stalling issue has been resolved. I have a meeting tomorrow night in the next town over, about 30 miles of mountain driving with one good pull. It will be a good test drive.

 

[campfire]

Spend the coin on the lokar cable and cut it to fit. Its money well spent. The factory cables are junk, even new, and no one realizes it until you replace one with a lokar and the pedal is twice as easy to push.

Now this intrigues me...the stiff accelerator pedal is probably my biggest complaint about all 3 of my rigs.

Didn't realize there was an easy fix.

 

[Stomis]

Now this intrigues me...the stiff accelerator pedal is probably my biggest complaint about all 3 of my rigs.

Didn't realize there was an easy fix.

I was so skeptical of spending the money on lokar at first. Theres a damn good reason theyre the top of the industry...