Hey everyone. I have a 1985 GMC Jimmy. With what I believe to be stock axles. They measure out at 3 1/2. But I am having the hardest time finding any steel wheels with a 3 1/2 center bore so I can achieve hubcentric. If you have any recommendations to where I can find such wheels, I would truly appreciate it. or am I missing something? Will I need to get something with a larger center bore and get a hubcentric ring? Any advice is welcome.
CK5
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Achieving Hubcentric
- Thread starter Bcwkyle
- Start date
You can get hubcentric rings, but on the other hand, all my aftermarket wheels are just centered with the lugs. All go smooth down the road.
Same here, never even tried to find the bore size.....just bolted them on, all smooth
I have some intent to you this as an off road vehicle and my buddy is saying it’s important. I had never even heard of hub centric or lug centric u til the other day.
Not important unless its important to you.
Good luck . 20+ year ex tire tech here . . Great idea but 98% of people dont even know what it is or how to get it .
And the plastic rings in my opinion do NOTHING like a true hub centric fit rim does to transfer load .
Just pick what you like and run a good brand of lugnut like mcguard .
And the plastic rings in my opinion do NOTHING like a true hub centric fit rim does to transfer load .
Just pick what you like and run a good brand of lugnut like mcguard .
Hub centric means the wheel is centered via the hub. Lug centric means the lug nuts center the wheel up. As long as you get lug centric lug nuts and just evenly tighten them up as you go, no issues. Some may argue hub is better than lug because maybe the lugs don't tighten equally and the wheel could potentially be off center or that the hub is stronger than the lug but in 24yrs I've never had that issue on my street cars or off road cars.
Hub centric is common in the heavy truck/bus world.
Hub centric does add some strength and reliability to the system since it makes sure the wheel is centered and any flex that happens in the system can be resisted by the hub ring rather than being carried only by the studs. In extreme situations, this can make a difference but very few people find themselves in these.
I know of a local guy that lost a wheel on a dodge truck that always hauled huge loads of hay. The system was probably overloaded, who knows the maintenance and even torque specs and a hub centric wheel would have helped. Not many trucks live this life.
I know of a local guy that lost a wheel on a dodge truck that always hauled huge loads of hay. The system was probably overloaded, who knows the maintenance and even torque specs and a hub centric wheel would have helped. Not many trucks live this life.
If you have hub centric, cant you also add lug centric lug nuts for the combo to further enhance the strength?
The military M151 “MUTT” and its trailer the M416 had hub centric wheels. Very tight fit to the hub and a major pain if rust has decided to join them. German cars with their lug bolts are also hub centric. They can also be a huge pain to remove the wheels even with the lug bolts out.
Which leads back to the 6 lug 10 bolt axles and the wheels that attach to them. Pulling the lug nuts on any of my M1009 trucks with their stock steel military wheels leads to 2 different results. The fronts come right off. The rears with the stock rear drum brakes almost always are stuck to the hub. Just like a hub centric designed wheel/hub. I just expect to have to do a mule like kick a few times to get them loose. Every now and then a dead blow sledge has been used to break them free.
The military manuals which tend to mention everything do not say anything either way. They do instruct that the wedge of the lug nuts go toward the hub and that the wheel should be fitted with the dished lug nuts recesses to match the lugs. But nothing about matching a cleaned wheel center hole to a clean corresponding hub. Nothing about an interference fit either.
All of that being written. The rear stock steel wheels sure do act like hub centric. However, all I have is M1009 trucks. The few civilian versions I have messed with all had aluminum wheels and they for sure were not hub centric. I totally agree with the comments above about steel or plastic inserts for hub centric being useless or more harmful in some cases.
My suggestion to the original poster is to have lug nuts that are matched to your wheels. Torque them to spec and drive happy while worrying about something else.
Which leads back to the 6 lug 10 bolt axles and the wheels that attach to them. Pulling the lug nuts on any of my M1009 trucks with their stock steel military wheels leads to 2 different results. The fronts come right off. The rears with the stock rear drum brakes almost always are stuck to the hub. Just like a hub centric designed wheel/hub. I just expect to have to do a mule like kick a few times to get them loose. Every now and then a dead blow sledge has been used to break them free.
The military manuals which tend to mention everything do not say anything either way. They do instruct that the wedge of the lug nuts go toward the hub and that the wheel should be fitted with the dished lug nuts recesses to match the lugs. But nothing about matching a cleaned wheel center hole to a clean corresponding hub. Nothing about an interference fit either.
All of that being written. The rear stock steel wheels sure do act like hub centric. However, all I have is M1009 trucks. The few civilian versions I have messed with all had aluminum wheels and they for sure were not hub centric. I totally agree with the comments above about steel or plastic inserts for hub centric being useless or more harmful in some cases.
My suggestion to the original poster is to have lug nuts that are matched to your wheels. Torque them to spec and drive happy while worrying about something else.
thats what factory is already .
when you swap wheels of non stock design / brand / aftermarket you become lug centric .
