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adding drivetrain length? 465/205

MattK

MattK

1/2 ton status
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I've got a 10 spline 465/205 setup in my truck right now. im curious if there was an economical route to adding some drivetrain length. my front driveshaft is only about 27" long at rest and the CV doesn't like the angle at all. i hear grinding when the suspension unloads after going over bumps on the road.

a blackbox (dont think its offered in 10 sp though) or doubler would be cool, but im hoping there is a little cheaper/easier way to relax the angles on my front shaft.
 
Only thing I could think of would be moving the front axle forward. zero rates, 52s or 56s. That would lengthen the front shaft
 
muddermilitia said:
Only thing I could think of would be moving the front axle forward. zero rates, 52s or 56s. That would lengthen the front shaft
Click to expand...

yeah i've got 4" springs up front as well as a zero rate to move the axle forward 1.5". good idea with the 52/56's though.
 
NWF offers 32spline output shafts for NP205's. You can then run a 1410 NP205 yoke(or make a flange if you want). The single 1410 joint will give way more angle than you will need. I plan on doing this as soon as i get my engine troubles worked out.

Change this and the bearing and your ready for high angles. http://www.northwestfab.com/tcaseparts.html
 
BoondocK5 said:
You could have the perches cut and rewelded on you axles to getrid of that bad angle.
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I believe he is talking about the front shaft having a bad angle. You can't cut off the perches on a dana 60 front. Pass side perch is part of the diff. But you can cut the knuckles and rotate the axle, then reweld the knuckles.
 
BoondocK5 said:
You could have the perches cut and rewelded on you axles to getrid of that bad angle.
Click to expand...

Actually he would need the inner knuckles turned on the axle tubes, as drivers spring perch is part of the differential housing on a 60.

edit: im slow
 
Citizen Rider said:
Actually he would need the inner knuckles turned on the axle tubes, as drivers spring perch is part of the differential housing on a 60.

edit: im slow
Click to expand...
:haha: :haha:
 
Citizen Rider said:
Actually he would need the inner knuckles turned on the axle tubes, as drivers spring perch is part of the differential housing on a 60.

edit: im slow
Click to expand...
I had to do both, have the diff mount ground off and had a pearch welded and heat treated, welded back onto it at the correct position then had both inner knuckles cut off and rewelded at the correct position to correct the caster angle. costed about 4 bills when I had the axle built.
 
Switching to a 1410 driveline definitely seems to be the easiest choice so far.

Alternately, maybe you could buy a clocking ring and rotate the case down. Those run less than $200.
 
Unfortunately, I dont think there is an easy way. I tried running my stock front shaft (ears ground, spicer joints) and had nothing but problems. No where near enough angle capability and it spit out joints left and right. I'm afraid it's time to spend some dough with Jesse.:D
 
had the same problem with my sm465/205 combo. unfortunatley the motor in that truck had to be used in another one so I can drive it. when I get a motor for the sm465 Im gonna use some 52s to move the axle foward and get it as low to the ground as possible so that the angles arent too bad and once I get the money it will get a doubler and that should clear up my problems with the super short front shaft.
 
koldsimer said:
Unfortunately, I dont think there is an easy way. I tried running my stock front shaft (ears ground, spicer joints) and had nothing but problems. No where near enough angle capability and it spit out joints left and right. I'm afraid it's time to spend some dough with Jesse.:D
Click to expand...

Switching to a 32spline output and running a 1410 at the case and axle would be much more cost effective, will put out give or take the same amounts as your HAD 42* cv.
 
Just get rid of the front shaft and be cool like your buddy DE.:doah: Rockwells would give you a beter angle.:eek1: :eek1:
 
As stated above, simply cutting and turning the knuckles won't change the pinion angle, you still have to move the spring pads.
 
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