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Adding new plug ends

Magikal

1/2 ton status
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A few of the connectors on my engine harness are giving me grief. I ordered new connectors with pigtails on them. What's the best way to connect these to the existing harness? Its a 7.4l vortec and I'm concerned about the resistance created. Crimp? Solder?
 
Depin the connectors and use the new connector body with the old terminals. Assuming the wiring is good and terminals are good or can be cleaned up. Then dielectric grease on all terminals.

Cutting wiring really should be the last resort, as it's near impossible to make a corrosion resistant splice with stuff most of us normally use. Besides, OEM wiring is designed to handle the appropriate heat levels, shrink tubing I'd question, especially since much of it is probably cheap garbage.

Generally crimping is considered better than soldering it seems, IMO it's also a lot faster as long as you have the crimper and crimp sleeves.
 
Sadly the problem is the wiring itself as it enters the connector. I can hold the wire vertical and have no codes. Hold it horizontal at the connector and it throws codes. Thinking the wire is about to break altogether. . Appears fine on the outside but....
 
Sadly the problem is the wiring itself as it enters the connector. I can hold the wire vertical and have no codes. Hold it horizontal at the connector and it throws codes. Thinking the wire is about to break altogether. . Appears fine on the outside but....
Sadly I had the same issue with my fuel pump connector. Ended up buying the proper terminals from mouser.com, a cheap (but proper) crimper, and just cutting the wires back and putting new terminals on.

It's possible though that the wire is corroded far enough back under the jacket that you won't have enough left to reach going that route. Sometimes the wire will be garbage well into the jacket.

For most applications, I don't think either a soldered or crimped connection will REALLY be an issue, as long as care is used to do it right, don't use cheap crimp barrels, and make sure the shrink tubing is covering all the work, and then some.
 
From the perspective of someone who works on low voltage electronic and communication equipment, and doing board level repairs - A proper crimp is ALWAYS better than a soldered wire connection, especially when in an environment subject to vibration and movement. The problem is that many people, unknowingly, are doing absolute crap crimp jobs with poorly made tooling and connectors. Combining the typical "do-it-all" auto parts store crimper and parts store level (or worse, HF) crimp terminals will just about guarantee a bad crimp job.

Look at just about every OEM wire connection out there - none are soldered, they're all crimped. Even on the super sensitive modern sensors where a couple hundredths of a volt one way or the other can be a big deal. Sure, it can be argued that the OEMs are cheap, and soldering costs more, but that's not the reason. Fact is that a _proper_ crimped connection is just flat better both mechanically and electrically, than a soldered connection. A proper crimp will create an air tight seal around the wire, essentially creating a "cold weld".

Soldering is essentially gluing the wire to the terminal with a filler that tends to degrade over time. Electronics techs are familiar with this, and having to "reflow" circuit boards over time. Many back yard amateurs aren't soldering these things correctly either, causing damage and poor connections. Soldering also causes a brittle zone that will lead to future connection failure if the wire isn't strain relieved correctly.

All that said, if you're using the $5 parts store crimpers, with equally cheap connectors/terminals..yeah, you'll probably end up with a better connection electrically speaking if you drop some solder down in there too.
 
From the perspective of someone who works on low voltage electronic and communication equipment, and doing board level repairs - A proper crimp is ALWAYS better than a soldered wire connection, especially when in an environment subject to vibration and movement. The problem is that many people, unknowingly, are doing absolute crap crimp jobs with poorly made tooling and connectors. Combining the typical "do-it-all" auto parts store crimper and parts store level (or worse, HF) crimp terminals will just about guarantee a bad crimp job.

Look at just about every OEM wire connection out there - none are soldered, they're all crimped. Even on the super sensitive modern sensors where a couple hundredths of a volt one way or the other can be a big deal. Sure, it can be argued that the OEMs are cheap, and soldering costs more, but that's not the reason. Fact is that a _proper_ crimped connection is just flat better both mechanically and electrically, than a soldered connection. A proper crimp will create an air tight seal around the wire, essentially creating a "cold weld".

Soldering is essentially gluing the wire to the terminal with a filler that tends to degrade over time. Electronics techs are familiar with this, and having to "reflow" circuit boards over time. Many back yard amateurs aren't soldering these things correctly either, causing damage and poor connections. Soldering also causes a brittle zone that will lead to future connection failure if the wire isn't strain relieved correctly.

All that said, if you're using the $5 parts store crimpers, with equally cheap connectors/terminals..yeah, you'll probably end up with a better connection electrically speaking if you drop some solder down in there too.
Do you have any recommendation for crimp terminals and crimpers?
 
I use this brand in different configurations. I crimped this with a different brand cheapo's still a decent crimp.


Type 56 are easy to come by. I haven't found a convenient good quality crimp type butt connector.
While the OEM may crimp everything, they teach their techs to make solder repairs, or provide the exact wire repair materials needed to do specific tsb or recall
I may invest in weather pack assortment for future additions to my truck



IMG_20190611_170029.jpg
 
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Type 56 are easy to come by. I haven't found a convenient good quality crimp type butt connector.
Me either. I was home maybe someone else had a good suggestion.

A lot of times I end up using my weather pack kit and make the butt splice into a weather pack plug. But there are times that's a little silly to do if there's already a plug just 6" away. Haha.

I have also been using these and they seem to be working well: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890112 Price isn't bad either.

sum-890112_xl.jpg
 
Me either. I was home maybe someone else had a good suggestion.

A lot of times I end up using my weather pack kit and make the butt splice into a weather pack plug. But there are times that's a little silly to do if there's already a plug just 6" away. Haha.

I have also been using these and they seem to be working well: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890112 Price isn't bad either.

View attachment 377681

I've been wondering about those, good to know
 
Yes I try to use the shrink tube type butt connector as well. Haven't tried the summit branded ones
 
I've used a bunch of those in my blazer. They start out good but they all got very brittle after about a year or so and the wires would break apart inside. I wasnt using this specific brand though.... initially they were great!!
 
That is true, all of my crimp connectors have the shrink tube on them. I like that once shrunk, the tube hides the crimp so the terminals look nicer.
 
Do you have any recommendation for crimp terminals and crimpers?

Most of my stuff is AMP/Tyco, but that is also likely far higher cost than most DIY'ers are going to want to invest in, and understandably so when it isn't tools that are making you money (many of my crimp tools are hundreds of dollars new). The terminals also aren't always easily obtainable for those who have to go retail, or want to get something locally "right now". In the high end commercial stuff like this, you're basically buying into a "system", much like cordless tools - you normally can't easily mix a Dewalt battery with a Makita drill. With the terminals/crimpers, AMP crimpers are sized specifically to work with AMP terminals, but you're also getting terminals with very low tolerances. So things like outside diameter and wall thickness are nearly exact on all of them which results in a very high rate of repeatability.

That's the big problem with the "cheap" terminals and tools. You may end up with widely different sizes in the terminal barrels, so the crimps won't be the same from terminal to terminal. You'll also often find that they have very thin walls that won't clamp down well on the wire.

Usually 3M terminals can be easily found locally for the range of the common butt/ring/spades that work real nice and really aren't that much more expensive than the cheap generics. If you're looking to buy a bunch of the common terimals at once, DelCity sells some really nice stuff as does WayTek Wire. Waytek is where I've gotten a lot of my Weatherpak style terminals and housings from.

I generally recommend people get a ratcheting style crimper which takes the guesswork out of crimps in the "is it crimped enough? too much??" vein. For something relatively inexpensive, IWISS makes a few nice set ups with interchangeable dies that will handle many different types of terminals, including the Weatherpaks and other similar sealed connectors. The problem with many of the non-ratcheting style, like the common pliers type crimpers, is that it's very easy to over-crimp the terminal. Over-crimp is just as bad as an under-crimp, as it will cause the individual strands of wire to break from the stress. Typically this will be the case with the cheaper "do it all" crimpers.
 

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