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adjusting the injector pump

quinryan

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I have all the downloads and instructions that I can find about adjusting the IP on my 6.2. I have been here b4 asking about this, and I appreciate the help thus far.

Now, my mechanic (pretty good fella) has told me that he has to remove the intake manifold in order to do this. I don't see it that way, not at all.

So, is this necessary? I need to know 'cuz I got a "Fix-it" ticket for all the black smoke that my seemingly coal-fired truck puts out.

New filters (all). In fact, my air filters are stacked right now, in the hope that more air=less smoke. It has helped. Mileage went up about 3 mpg, and I'm getting tailgated more often.

Heads were professionally done 6 months ago.

Intake is an Army-style model.

Thanks
 
I did an injector pump on a friends 6.5 TD and i'm pretty sure I remember that you can't get to one of the bolts without pulling the intake (pretty sure 6.2 and 6.5 are situated the same way).
 
ite more complicated with out lifting intake. you have too open pump top cover 3 bolts,and an alen bolt thats facing rear off truck too remove some sort off trottle shaft.then you see a hole abou1/4 inch.you must turn engine until and allen key lines up,thats where you adjust pump.
 
You do not need to remove the intake manifold to adjust the pump (I've adjusted mine) and I've never seen any write-ups on the internet or anything in manuals suggesting you need to.

Here is a link on the Banks website telling you how to adjust the pump. It's actually the instructions for installing a turbo but has an entire section regarding the pump starting at page 14.
http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/656/96291.pdf

I've also swapped intakes on mine. While it's not that hard to remove the intake and would make access to the pump a little better, the amount of effort and time to remove the intake is way more than what would be saved while adjusting the pump.

Regarding the black smoke are you sure the timing is correct? If it is the adjustment is probably set for a turbo motor (i.e. a lot more fuel).
 
I can't thank you enough for that. Not just for the manual itself, but because I just bought a donor 6.2 Blazer that had (drum-roll) the factory (Banks) turbo.

Yeah, baby, yeah!

Down the road question- have you played with propane injection for your oil-burner?
 
I can't thank you enough for that. Not just for the manual itself, but because I just bought a donor 6.2 Blazer that had (drum-roll) the factory (Banks) turbo.

Yeah, baby, yeah!

Down the road question- have you played with propane injection for your oil-burner?

The banks was never offered from factory, but some people added them.
The 6.5 after 94 had a tubro from factory but not the banks.
As for the Propane injection, I have done it on a N/A 6.2 and it really made a difference, and now when my turbo diesel is up and running I will be adding the propane, I am still working on how I want to activate it though, when I tried it on the non turbo, I was just doing it manually with a small propane tank from a camping stove:whistle:
I am thinking of using a th400 kick down switch on the gas pedal, and I can buy an electrically operated valve cheap enough, and the rest is easy.
I found a write up on line to do all of it for under $100
 
I have read tha article when it came out: They made a mistake.
There were some dealers that offered it, so it was a dealer option, not factory option.
Some people confuse the 2.

The Banks was never offered from the factory, but was a OEM approved dealer option......meaning that GM actually set up the ground work so that dealers could install the turbo and offer a warranty with it.
 

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