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Advice on a future purchase

hammermachine

1/2 ton status
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I've been trying to rationalize eventually getting a Chevy Tahoe. I keep seeing the need to have a full sized SUV. That said, and being on this website, how much $$ would it take to do a solid axle swap? I mean a average price breakdown for a dana 60/ 14 bolt conversion. If I could do it today I would want to put no bigger that 35's on a 05-06 Tahoe. Please understand I am just testing the waters to see if I can make this happen in a year or two. Thanks.
 
I am doing a leaf sprung solid axle swap with a hp44 and a 14ff. By the time it's completly finished up i'll have close to 10,000 in it. However i bought pretty much bare axles and started that way. all, new bearing hubs, brake lines, shafts, rear disc conversion, shackle flip, diff cover's, etc. I didn't really just ''swap'' it all over. That being said are you thinking coils or leaf's? price will vary this way. Also keep in mind brake setup. I'm converting mine over to hydroboost, although i belive some tahoes, have it factory. Hope this helps a bit.
 
Tahoe

Wow, yeah I'm thinking leaf, I think they are cheaper. Its a hell of a investment, but considering they don't make sfa vehicles anymore (chevy) what other choice does anyone have?
 
I am doing a leaf sprung solid axle swap with a hp44 and a 14ff. By the time it's completly finished up i'll have close to 10,000 in it. However i bought pretty much bare axles and started that way. all, new bearing hubs, brake lines, shafts, rear disc conversion, shackle flip, diff cover's, etc. I didn't really just ''swap'' it all over. That being said are you thinking coils or leaf's? price will vary this way. Also keep in mind brake setup. I'm converting mine over to hydroboost, although i belive some tahoes, have it factory. Hope this helps a bit.

That sounds cool. What year is your
 
Sas

So it seems like I would have to remove the current axles, IFS, and suspension hardware. Replace with kit, new front and rear axles, (figure out the gearing), drive shafts, steering, brakes.... and me without mechanic skills...:eek1::yikes:
 
Don't forget figuring out all the ABS, traction, possible AWD T-case issues, and other compooter related stuff.

Shawn has fought with it and there's a build thread on a newer truck going on right now where the guy goes into a lot of it.
 
It can be done on the cheaper side. It just depends on how nice you want the end result to be. I'll give a rough estimate of my build for your consideration.

CUCV Dana60/14 bolt: $1200
NP205 with twin sticks ready to go in: ~$400
Sky rear hangers: $360. I bought the kit, and changed my mind halfway thru the build. You can probably get just the rears cheaper.
DIY4X universal spring hangers: ~$80
Junkyard 52" springs: $60
ORD Shackle flip and zero rates: ~$360
ORD crossover: $440
Misc nuts, bolts, brake line parts, welding rod, fluids, etc: ~$400, probably on the high side.
There's more I'm sure. Drivelines are going to be in the $1200 range due to the length of the truck. You can probably get off cheaper on something shorter.

I already had the axles, zero rates, transfer case, crossover and I traded the shackle flip off the K5 for the new one.

That being said my truck wouldnt be pleasant to drive every day. The springs are too soft. It doesnt bother me, but most people wouldnt like it. I've got lights in the dash on for ABS and brakes. My pushbutton 4x4 is gone, and I've got sticks thru the floor. With only 4" of lift I'm clearing 38.5's with no problem, but I dont have a bumper and I did a little hammering on the pinch weld behind the inner fender. I also dont have a bed. I plan to make short (in state) trips with it, but it wont be a DD.

Dont let the price discourage you, you can get off without spending 10 grand if you shop around and take your time collecting parts.
 
New (old) truck

So what years should I be looking for? There are a couple of 1992/1994 Blazers on craigs. There are also tons of 90's Tahoes (a few two door). Does the 90's era trucks have the same bad steel problem as the square bodies? Am I just switching one rust bucket for another?
 
Pretty much. Better than the square bodies but they still rust out bad. GM = rusting out.
 
One thing that i didn't see mentioned. A 2000 and newer tahoe is coil sprung from the factory in the rear. This means finding a way to adapt a coil setup to the rear that will take a different axle (thinking the h2 setup), or swapping to back to Leaf's, which im not sure there is a kit to do.

If you are dead set on 2000+, start with a 3/4 ton burb, and JUST swap the front, leaving the leaf sprung 14SF or FF in the rear.
 
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