advice on a purchase

[mprayii]

I have decided that I want a blazer... The problem is I come from a Jeep world.

Can any of you please tell me the best year to look for in a full size blazer, can you also explain the chosen year... axles, motor, trans, etc? Looking for the "factory wheeler". One I can stick some 36" or bigger tires on and not have to worry too much about gearing and axle strength.

Being prior military I have a natural boner for the M-1009 and ultimately I would like to own one. But again, I want to make a smart purchase, I have made so many dumb ones in the past!

Thanks for your help and for schooling an old jeep nut.

P.S. I will be wheeling new england trails (rocks, mud - mostly rocks and off camber) And for now, it will not be a DD but I will have to drive it 1 - 4 hours to and from the trail head as I do not yet have a trailer.

 

[Stomis]

Blazer wise your best bet is an 87-91 k35. Good luck finding one though. This truck would come with either a 350, 6.2L diesel, or possibly a 454 (not sure on that). The reason for the year selection is that your gasser motors would be fuel injected which is a gigantic plus in off angle situations.

Axle wise the truck would be a 60/14b combo which is the stoutest modern light duty axles they have ever made. Stock the axles could easily hold 38's with little breakage.

Transfercase wise that truck would have a 205 in it which is an all cast gear driven case. Again the strongest modern light duty piece made.

In all reality you'll probably have to wind up buying a half ton and swapping in the axles out of a 1 ton truck. If you look at a truck with a d44 or a 10b front just be aware they 37's are their limit. Any more than that and your asking for breaks pretty much EVERY outing.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

IMO, the M1009 won't be your best choice because it will have 3.08 gears. Those will suck BAD with 36's and it will be very hard on the transmission. Past that, the M1009's use a 24 volt electrical system and a bunch of parts that aren't easily available at your local auto parts store.

The 6.2L diesel in the M1009 is pretty gutless but is reliable and gets good mileage.



In a K5 Blazer, the older (70's) trucks are more likely to have lower gears (3.73 is pretty common and would be ok with 36's). The 70's trucks have a boxier body style and most will be rusty.

In '82 GM implemented a 4 speed automatic transmission (called the TH700R4) which, in conjunction with high axle gears (3.08's were common through this era too) were used to up fuel mileage a little bit. The initial design of the 700R4 had a few issues and is not considered a particularly reliable transmission. IMO, the '82-86 Blazers are the least desirable.


Starting in '87, all K5's had fuel injection. Many of the auto trans issues were improved and the later K5's were more likely to have lower differential gears (3.42 or 3.73). The '87-91 K5's are a good choice IMO.



IMO, if you want to run 36's you'll really need 3.73 gears or lower (numerically higher) gears in the differentials. 3.73 gears are pretty common in the 70's and late 80's trucks. Regearing differentials is costly (~$1000 if you have a shop do it), so you might want to find what you need in the first place.



Another potential issue is that 36's are really pushing it on the stock axles (especially the rear end).

Many people take the axles from a 3/4 ton pickup/suburban and swap them under a Blazer (they are a direct swap). This will give you a bulletproof rear end (a full floating 14 bolt, no chance of breaking a shaft and having the wheel fall off like the stock axle), plus you get bigger brakes and 3/4 ton trucks almost always have 3.73 or 4.10 gears. A big bonus here is that 3/4 ton axles are easy to find and you can usually pick them up for a few hundred bucks. The only real downfall is that 3/4 ton trucks use an 8 lug bolt pattern, so you'd need new wheels (which you'll probably need anyway with the bigger tires).



Sooooo (long post, I know), in your situation (if you have some mechanical know how and the desire to modify the truck a little), I'd buy whatever K5 you prefer and swap 3/4 ton axles under it.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Blazer wise your best bet is an 87-91 k35.

Didn't know they made K35 Blazers


I'm just messing around, he's suggesting a one ton pickup. All K5's are half ton (except for the 3/4 ton rated M1009, but they didn't actually get the stronger 3/4 ton drivetrain).

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I should mention, if you don't want to deal with swapping axles then find a truck with the lowest gears you can and bring spare axle shafts (along with learning how to change them).

 

[Stomis]

Didn't know they made K35 Blazers


I'm just messing around, he's suggesting a one ton pickup. All K5's are half ton (except for the 3/4 ton rated M1009, but they didn't actually get the stronger 3/4 ton drivetrain).

Ugh maybe my buddy had some custom badges made or something but I coulda swore he had a blazer with factory 1tons and a 6.2.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Ugh maybe my buddy had some custom badges made or something but I coulda swore he had a blazer with factory 1tons and a 6.2.

Nope, they never made a 1 ton Blazer.

 

[mprayii]

Gents - Thanks for the quick replies. Just what I needed to start my search!

I have some technical ability, and am in a club so what I dont have in tools I can usually find around the corner. I am VERY happy to hear that beefier axles can be had in the form of a direct swap!

These never came with a TTB right? A big reason why I am not into the brono as much.... plus who really likes ford anyways

Are there any BIG rot issues I should look at when shopping? Do the frames break? have weak points? Floors? etc.

Also, whats the recommended body lift height on these, I know on my TJ anything over 1 1/4" was "bad practice".

And to hit you with the uber noob question you all love seeing (I imagine). How much lift do I need for 36"? for 38"?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I am VERY happy to hear that beefier axles can be had in the form of a direct swap!

Yep, 3/4 ton axles from a 4WD pickup or Suburban will be a direct swap.

These never came with a TTB right? A big reason why I am not into the brono as much.... plus who really likes ford anyways

TTB was only a Ford thing, all K5's have solid axles.

Are there any BIG rot issues I should look at when shopping? Do the frames break? have weak points? Floors? etc.

All K5's pretty much have the same potential for rust issues. You'll usually see rust in the middle of the fenders:

in the rockers:

and in the very rear part of the bed.

Also, whats the recommended body lift height on these, I know on my TJ anything over 1 1/4" was "bad practice".

In general, body lift = bad. You shouldn't have any need for a body lift on a K5.

And to hit you with the uber noob question you all love seeing (I imagine). How much lift do I need for 36"? for 38"?

It depends on you, and basically how much you are willing to cut the fenders to fit tires. IMO, a 4" lift is perfect for that tire size but if you don't want to cut the fenders at all you'll need a lot more lift than that (which compromises performance and will mean a lot more cost in driveshafts, etc.).

 

[Stomis]

Nope, they never made a 1 ton Blazer.

Huh weird I always thought they were just super rare.

As for rust yeah watch the body line on the fender opening, the rockers, cab corners if you do get a pickup, and the rear of the bed.

Steer clear of body lift. Theres only one reason good enough in alot of guys on heres eyes to have one and thats if you clock your transfer case flat and dont want to cut the floor.

 

[jtrapani]

IMO I like the 73-75. I have a 74 and an 85. Both boxier bodies than the first generation but the full top comes off of the 73-75. Coming from jeeps you should feel right at home with this. I think you get all the benefits of the three generations. Really hard to find a rust free one though. But its worth it.

 

[nvrenuf]

Any year K5 is subject to a common problem of frame cracking at the steering box. While potentially a huge problem if unnoticed or neglected there are a couple of good fixes out that when applied make this a non-issue.

 

[mprayii]

Looking at the "what would my truck.... lift and tires" thread. I am liking the look of the 4" lifts.

And this is my last Jeep - 89 MJ 6" lift w/ 34x10.5 LTB's on 15x7" rims.

I am no stranger to cutting, but would like to avoid ever cutting anything this much again.... but I will if I have to

http-//www-newenglandjeepz-org/images/mj/mj08.jpg

(replace the - with . to activate the image)
15 post limit = g@y.

 

[Big Blzn]

My $.02 here. I really like my '72. Not terribly common, holds its value fairly well compared to other K5's, and most of all-----full vert. I have no plans on ever selling it and my end up giving it to my son in 10 years to drive in high school. We'll see though. if I were to buy a second blazer it would be a '73-'75 with the one ton gear already under it. The reason I say this is because I gotta have the full vert, need something I wouldn't have to smog in California and I have "average-at-best" mechanical skills. I totally agree about the built not bought theory but for ME, sometimes it just make more sense to buy the drivetrain already installed and the rest I can personalize myself. Space to work on the rig also determines how much I build as opposed to buying.

That Being said I'd rather buy a K5 with little rust and good condition and stock running gear than buying a rig with the "right" drivetrain and cancer infested.

 

[mprayii]

Would I have to do a front disk conversion on those 73-75 axles? Is the strength of those comparable to the strenth of the axles under the 87-91 blazers? I dont know my axles very well, other than how to identify by the "pumpkin".

I really like the older body style in comparison. But, I have a feeling that I am going to be bumping off a lot of trees. Plus - and it was said - I think have EFI is going to be a giant plus for my off road use.

 

[mprayii]

Is the strength of those comparable to the strenth of the axles under the 87-91 blazers?

let me clarify so I dont sound like a complete idiot...

The difference in a Dana 35 axle between 1989 and 1990 is pretty big, the removal of the c-clip. And if you take the Dana 30, it gets stronger and stronger each generation within the YJ - TJ transition. I guess none of them will compair to 3/4 ton or even 1 ton axles... So I guess what I am asking is, how big of a difference strength wise between the old 1 tons and the 1/2 ton axles of the newer model.

 

[Big Blzn]

Would I have to do a front disk conversion on those 73-75 axles? Is the strength of those comparable to the strenth of the axles under the 87-91 blazers? I dont know my axles very well, other than how to identify by the "pumpkin".

I really like the older body style in comparison. But, I have a feeling that I am going to be bumping off a lot of trees. Plus - and it was said - I think have EFI is going to be a giant plus for my off road use.

Front disks came standard on, I believe, '71 and newer 1/2 ton D44s. The '76 changed to 10 bolts from the D44 IIRC. They are both about the same strength but the '76 and earlier had the flat top knuckle which is a bonus for crossover steering. What do you mean by bumping a lot of tires off?

let me clarify so I dont sound like a complete idiot...

The difference in a Dana 35 axle between 1989 and 1990 is pretty big, the removal of the c-clip. And if you take the Dana 30, it gets stronger and stronger each generation within the YJ - TJ transition. I guess none of them will compair to 3/4 ton or even 1 ton axles... So I guess what I am asking is, how big of a difference strength wise between the old 1 tons and the 1/2 ton axles of the newer model.

Sorry answered above. ^^^^^

 

[mprayii]

What do you mean by bumping a lot of tires off?

Bumping off of trees - body damage from the trail. Meaning that even though I like the older bodystyle better, I have a feeling that after a year or two of trails it wont really matter

 

[1-tonmudder]

80 model K-5.They came with 205's regardless of trans type,10 bolt front,last year for the 12 bolt rear and some came with 3:42's and 3:73's.The front is easily upgradeable to later 30 spline shaft's and both will hold up to 36's pretty decent.The only down side is it's hard to find one that not ate up with rust or the hood isnt broke down,well around here anyway.Second would be the 87 up FI K-5 with the 465's in em.I have a M-1009 and the only thing that's still Mil spec is the paint.

 

[Dabba]

unless you really want a k5, go for an m1008 or m1028. Those things have the heavy duty drivedrain "Stock" Both came with 6.2L diesels, TH400 trannys, gm 14bolt FF rear with detroit locker and dana 60 front. The 28 came with a clutch driven posi in the dana60 and some (if not all, cant remember) came with an np205 gear driven tcase with pto output. the 08 has an open front and an np208, though its a 32spline, not a normal 28spline so its a little better. Did i mention they both come with 4.56s? I traded my 86k5 for the m1008 and man do i love it. gonna get it repainted in c.arc next year. Ive already pulled out a few stuck people, including a newer wrangler above the doors in mud. I love it