Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
The copper supply line to the housing caught in the ring gear. Tomorrow I'm going to by pass it and see if the line going to the housing holds air and functions properly.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Advice on fixing ARB line
- Thread starter Alan2smiley
- Start date
That’s brazed to that inner collar. Worst case I do believe you can order the collar
when I install those, I Right stuff the copper line to the side of the case and let it set up before adding the cover. Hope that helps
when I install those, I Right stuff the copper line to the side of the case and let it set up before adding the cover. Hope that helps
wasted wages
1 ton status
The copper line going to the inner collar doesn't appear to be totally damaged and mashed up like it took a trip thru the pinion.
if the collar is free to rotate, I would attempt to silver solder a longer piece of 1/4" copper to the line, and then silver solder that to the stub that is coming thru the housing.
depending upon how that fitting mounts thru the housing, you could solder the new
"extension" line to the fitting in a vise first, let it cool down and then measure and solder it up using a swedging tool or just use a 1/4" copper coupling.
it looks like a small nick in the line near the bottom of the ring gear...that can also be silver soldered in place if it can be rotated upward....
I don't know how proficient you are with a torch and silver solder,, but if you know anyone that does HVAC work, they should be able to make those couple of welds fairly easy...
would save you the hassle of tearing the rear end apart..
if the collar is free to rotate, I would attempt to silver solder a longer piece of 1/4" copper to the line, and then silver solder that to the stub that is coming thru the housing.
depending upon how that fitting mounts thru the housing, you could solder the new
"extension" line to the fitting in a vise first, let it cool down and then measure and solder it up using a swedging tool or just use a 1/4" copper coupling.
it looks like a small nick in the line near the bottom of the ring gear...that can also be silver soldered in place if it can be rotated upward....
I don't know how proficient you are with a torch and silver solder,, but if you know anyone that does HVAC work, they should be able to make those couple of welds fairly easy...
would save you the hassle of tearing the rear end apart..
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Maybe the gear lube coming over the top pulled it into the ring gear, it was cold when it quite working. I probably should check out the rear diff and glue the line in place. When HVAC was mentioned I remembered demoing miles of small copper vacuum control lines above the ceiling in commercial buildings. Thanks for the info, allot more than the dude that installed it.
i messed mine up on install.
took it to my buddy at the welding supply store and he said its silver soldered in place since its copper to steel .
sold me a small roll/case of silver solder and flux and i treated it just like any other solder job after i pulled the ring off and took out the o-rings . bench test after and it held air pressure .
took it to my buddy at the welding supply store and he said its silver soldered in place since its copper to steel .
sold me a small roll/case of silver solder and flux and i treated it just like any other solder job after i pulled the ring off and took out the o-rings . bench test after and it held air pressure .
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
It looks good at the housing and locks when I bypass the bulkhead, alitte gear lube runs out when I take the pressure off. There is a different type of bulkhead assembly and repair kit available.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
These should make life easier
If you do have to extend the copper line, and you are brazing copper to copper, stay away from the silver solder. Grab a stick of Phos-Copper with some silver content.
I use Stay-Silv 15. It seems like it should be called silver solder, but its not. Silver solder will work, and do great. And if you are connecting anything other than copper to copper, then silver solder is what it will take.
But, silver solder needs flux to ensure a good joint, and I don't like flux in my gearboxes.
Phos-Copper is self-fluxing on copper. No flux needed. Phos-Copper 0 is good stuff and cheaper, but needs a tight joint for strength and can be stiff and brittle.
The 15% silver mixed with the Phos-Copper lets the joints be sloppy and will cause it to do good filling. And be ductile afterwards. Plus its very easy to solder with and quite forgiving.
As a side note, its what all my outdoor ground connections are made with. Living in the lightning capital means you must have good solid low resistance connections on all the dozen or so ground rods I have.
I use Stay-Silv 15. It seems like it should be called silver solder, but its not. Silver solder will work, and do great. And if you are connecting anything other than copper to copper, then silver solder is what it will take.
But, silver solder needs flux to ensure a good joint, and I don't like flux in my gearboxes.
Phos-Copper is self-fluxing on copper. No flux needed. Phos-Copper 0 is good stuff and cheaper, but needs a tight joint for strength and can be stiff and brittle.
The 15% silver mixed with the Phos-Copper lets the joints be sloppy and will cause it to do good filling. And be ductile afterwards. Plus its very easy to solder with and quite forgiving.
As a side note, its what all my outdoor ground connections are made with. Living in the lightning capital means you must have good solid low resistance connections on all the dozen or so ground rods I have.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
I ordered the air junction kit with compression fittings.
