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Air Compressor Choice

P

prairie

1/2 ton status
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Location
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I've narrowed my air compressor choice down to the FSCurtis brand.

Model 775VT8 7.5HP 80gal 29.0 CFM @ 175 PSI

Or

Model 555VT8 5HP 80gal 17.8 CFM @ 175 PSI

I know bigger is always better when it comes to air compressors, but don't want to spend more than I need to!

Will be installed in my warehouse with lines plumbed to several areas, within 70-80 feet. Main use will be for repair and maintenance of haying and seed equipment. This will be personal/business use, and use will be sporadic. Want to run regular air tools, paint gun, sand blast cabinet, etc.. May eventually want to add a sandblasting pot to the mix.
Also may use it to work on a 4x4 project or two.:wink1:

Do I need the larger unit? The extra $300+ would go a long way towards filters, regulator, plumbing, etc.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
Snd blaster use LOTS of air. Make sure the scfm's are the highest at whatever air pressure you'll be running, most air tools should be regulated between 90-100PSI so make sure there are plenty of scfm's at that air pressure if you want to sandblast without having to wait for the compressor tank to fill back up. Oh, i should mention that at the shop i used to own i had a 10HP compessor and it could not keep up with the bead blaster so i had to jump up to a 15HP motor and a much larger 3 stage pump.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Snd blaster use LOTS of air. Make sure the scfm's are the highest at whatever air pressure you'll be running, most air tools should be regulated between 90-100PSI so make sure there are plenty of scfm's at that air pressure if you want to sandblast without having to wait for the compressor tank to fill back up. Oh, i should mention that at the shop i used to own i had a 10HP compessor and it could not keep up with the bead blaster so i had to jump up to a 15HP motor and a much larger 3 stage pump.
Click to expand...

You've convinced me to go with the larger unit.
Although they are higher priced when compared to other brands similiar models, these two compressors give much higher CFM's for the same HPand tank size.
Also I will buy it from a fairly local shop, 50 miles away, that specializes in air compressor sales and service. They have been very helpful in answering my questions and have offered to help me properly design my extensive plumbing system. They feel the larger unit would be more than adequate for my sporadic use, as It will not be used on a daily basis as in most full time repair shops.
Thanks for the reply!
 
Other suggestions, put a regulator/water sep right at the outlet on the tank. Then run the compressor up to 125-135psi, and the regulator at 95-100psi. Also if there is no chance of freezing pvc air lines work great. BUT if they freeze they will explode, let the compressor run if not shut off, and so on, just a bad deal. If your shop is heated then they are easy to work with, cheap and add extra volume when you use a 1" or wahtever you feel like getting. Also they make am automatic drain that is 110volt. You take the drain out of the bottom of the tank then this screws in. You then can set how often it blows and the duration, at least on my IR one. Well worh $100 I feel if you plan on keeping the compressor. Just what I picked up from being in shops so its what I did with mine. I also have a 60 gallon tank next to my 80 gallon 5hp which helps a lot. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
ssyork said:
Other suggestions, put a regulator/water sep right at the outlet on the tank. Then run the compressor up to 125-135psi, and the regulator at 95-100psi. Also if there is no chance of freezing pvc air lines work great. BUT if they freeze they will explode, let the compressor run if not shut off, and so on, just a bad deal. If your shop is heated then they are easy to work with, cheap and add extra volume when you use a 1" or wahtever you feel like getting. Also they make am automatic drain that is 110volt. You take the drain out of the bottom of the tank then this screws in. You then can set how often it blows and the duration, at least on my IR one. Well worh $100 I feel if you plan on keeping the compressor. Just what I picked up from being in shops so its what I did with mine. I also have a 60 gallon tank next to my 80 gallon 5hp which helps a lot. Just my 2 cents worth.
Click to expand...

Plan to set it up about as you recommended.

PVC? Everything I find on plumbing airlines, specifically states not to use PVC under any circumstances. I checked with my insurance company, and they said PVC would not pass their inspection, even in a heated shop. If i recall properly, only copper, aluminum, or black iron would meet their specs.
Anyone have any thoughts about this?

I am going to check into the automatic drain. Sounds like it would be ideal, as other people will be also using this air system, and it will not likely get manually drained at proper intervals. Am guessing it works something like the "spitters" on a truck air brake system.
 
PVC is a big no-no because of the exploding into tiny pieces if it freezes due to water in the lines. That being said I know many people that use it, but in a business setting it might not be a good idea. Especially if your ins says no. I also have a light switch next to the door that cuts the pressure switch on and off on the compressor. So my compressor is only on when i'm in the shop. The auto drain is always on, just not the compressor. So if a line does ever blow it can't keep running. I have had the same lines since 02 or 03 and have yet to have any problems. My shop never gets below 45 though. I would use the biggest lines you can afford though just for the added volume. Or maybe try and come up with another 60-80gallon tank. Hope this helps a bit. I've just seen a handful of shops with tons of water in there lines and tiny little copper or steel lines running around the shop. Then they need a big air line one day and can't get the volume out to the air line to get what they need. Just seems to be a pain if not set up to start with. Or steel lines with water in them and so much rust that it kills air tools, and ruins any painting.
 
Use 3/4" copper lines. Make sure to have fittings for the air hose that have an area that is lower than the air fitting with a drain (imagine a tee fitting where the line comes down into the fitting and continues downward but also has the offbranch of the tee facing you as you look at it, something like this... I-- ). This makes it very easy to drain each downleg in the system of any moisture accumulation.
 
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