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Air intake question

father-son

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Hello all, my name is Rob and I live in Arkansas. My 15 year old son and I just bought an 86 K5, and got an 83 as a parts car. I have never done anything mechanically on a car in my life (never even changed the oil), but we jumped in and got one so we can work on it and learn together (my wife is skeptical), and hopefully have a decent car when he turns 16. I want him to learn all the things about cars I never did, and this is how we decided to do it.

Anyway, our car doesn't have the original engine - it has a 350 with a Quadrajet 4 barrel 36021 carb. My question is this - it needs a new air intake assembly (I believe that's what it's called - it hold the air filter). How do I know what the right size/model is.

Thanks
 
This is going to be quite a project.
Its definitely do-able.
I will try to come up with some more thoughts later, but let me post these first.

SAFETY!!

Working on something like this can kill you if you act stupid. But, all it takes are some simple rules and a little common sense, and you will be fine.

First, CHOCK YOUR WHEELS.

In other words, put something in front and back of the wheels to keep the car from rolling.
If you put the car in park, or leave it in gear to keep it from rolling, and then get under it and take the driveshaft loose to change the U-joints, it is then free to roll.
I personally know two people that did that.
Both survived, but learn from their mistakes.

Jacks are for lifting, not holding.

Invest in a set of jackstands. They are pyramid shaped steel units with an adjustable shaft coming out the top that you put under the axles to either hold them up or catch them if the jack fails.

Keep it as stock as you can.

You will find more modifications here than you can imagine. None of them is beyond your abilities.
Heck, if some of these guys can do it........

But, if you start swapping axles or transmissions, you are going to find that the manuals you are using will become less and less relevant.

First, get it to be a safe and reliable truck, then decide what you want to be able to do with it.

Whoa is more important than go.

Brakes and steering are more important than the engine.
A truck that sits in the driveway because it won't crank, is a pain.

One that will do 100 but won't stay in the road and has only one wheel stopping it, is worse.
A skip in the engine is not as important as soft spongy brakes.

What you are trying to do, is one of the most satisfying things I know.
When you get in a car that you helped rebuild, you OWN that car.

If you hear a strange noise, or something does not work right, there is no feeling of helplessness wondering what that is, and how much will a mechanic charge to fix it.

Plus you are teaching your son self-reliance. If he is driving along and the car quits, odds are he will get home just fine.
If not, you might get a call to bring him a part, not send a wrecker, or "it just quit, help".

I drove a '60 model CJ5 Jeep as my daily driver for 10 years.

In those 10 years, it never failed to get me home. Not always with the same parts it started out the day with.
To this day, I could change out a front wheel bearing in the dark, with no light, in the woods.
In the rain.

If you are going to go ahead with the project, which I highly recommend, spring for the paid up membership, and get a decent but cheap digital camera.

It will be really nice to be able to just take a picture of something on the car, post it here, and have the people here tell you exactly what it is, whats wrong with it, and how to fix it, when you don't have a clue.

BTW, the part you are looking for is called an air cleaner housing. I am not familiar enough with that model to tell you exactly what you are going to need, but someone will chip in sooner or later that will know.

One thing to remember, the folks online here are everywhere. So you never know what time zone they are in, or what they might be doing.
You post here, you may get an answer in 5 minutes or 24 hours.

If you don't get an answer, try re-posting with a different title.
As long as you are reasonably polite and get along, these folks will get you there.

Just watch out for the humor.
 
Gees Fordum you have a bionic finger.:haha:
And that ain't all!!:D


Dude, chill. He was asking about the air cleaner...

Yeah, I know, but what put the chills down my back and the juice in my finger was the statement that he had never even changed the oil in a car and he was going to embark on a complete rebuild of a K5.

I suppose I could have been a little more clear that it is usually not necessary to chock the wheels to install an air cleaner housing, but I did not know when he might post back after this, and I wanted him to have some of the basic safety ideas right upfront.

I guess I can be a little overly safety conscious from time to time, but I come by it naturally.
I have snatched friends out from under falling cars, tied rags around bleeding stumps and had to help look for fingers.

I was sitting with my legs on either side of my Jeep's front tire tightening the bolts on a set of Warn hubs after changing the wheel bearing.
I had already put on the tire while waiting for some parts for the hub.
Just as I was about to finish, the seal blew out on the floor jack and the Jeep tire pinned the loose part of the crotch of my pants to the floor.......

Plus, I walked up on a guy that they had hired as a mechanic. He was cussing and trying to do something.
When I looked, I realized that he was trying to get the cage bolt out of a semi's wheel cylinder with it in a vise.

On top of all that, I just got back from another friend's funeral this afternoon, so I am maybe a little overly protective right now.....
 

As the self-anointed safety apostle of this board, you should also know that any redneck with a truck is not an easy thing to kill. Otherwise the entire southern states of this fine country would be empty...

Now do you know anything about that air cleaner housing, or not?
 
Go to any auto parts store, they'll have a 14" generic air cleaner made by Edelbrock or Holley that's probably $20 or so. Put it on, done.
 
Now do you know anything about that air cleaner housing, or not?

Not much.
I suspect that any GM junkyard air cleaner off a Holly 4 barrel of close vintage would work.
Heck, first I would pull the one off the doner vehicle and see if it fits.

As for killing redneck truck owners.......HEY, I resemble that remark.....

Some of my friends are alive today simply because they never knew what they did was supposed to be fatal.
 
If your looking in a yard with some 80's rigs still in them , look for air cleaner housings still attached to the trucks , which are taller . Those take a larger filter with more surface area , and will flow enough to feed a decent 350 . You can also make the shiny semi ridgid aluminum dryer tubing fit the snorkel end , and attach it to the black plastic air inlet in the core support next to the radiator on the passenger side .

If you look in cars you will find shorter housings , of which the only desirable one is the dual snorkel Camaro one .

Of course is you want a little more performance look , any chrome housing at a parts store will be fine , and have a tube hole if you need to pass emissions .
 
First and foremost, welcome to CK5. You will not find a better place to find repair info for your K5, anywhere. Even repair manuals lack what this site and it's members know. :waytogo:

Second, Fordum, you are good for posting all that info. I would be too lazy to type all that out, maybe copy and paste from a file or something but anyways, safety info is never a bad thing. Especially to one who is not familiar with car repair and procedure. For most of us who have been working on cars most of our lives, the safety steps are second nature. Others learn the hard way if not done right.

As to the question, K5s were available with 305 and 350 V8s with a q-jet on top for many years. If the parts car does not have one to swap on, the junkyard is the next best place to get one. Otherwise a universal chrome round 14" air cleaner available at most parts stores or online will work. One other place to look, or to put out a wanted ad, would be the classified section here at CK5. You will need to pay the membership fee for this but between finding parts or repair info here it will be money well spent.

Feel free to ask whatever questions that may come up while going through your truck. But keep in mind a little searching before hand can go a long way. :D
 
If your looking in a yard with some 80's rigs still in them , look for air cleaner housings still attached to the trucks , which are taller . Those take a larger filter with more surface area , and will flow enough to feed a decent 350 . You can also make the shiny semi ridgid aluminum dryer tubing fit the snorkel end , and attach it to the black plastic air inlet in the core support next to the radiator on the passenger side .

If you look in cars you will find shorter housings , of which the only desirable one is the dual snorkel Camaro one .

Of course is you want a little more performance look , any chrome housing at a parts store will be fine , and have a tube hole if you need to pass emissions .

I'm not really that concerned with looks - I want whatever will get enough air into the carb. So, are you saying that getting a used one and attaching it to the air inlet is better than the new ones with just the chrome housing? I want to do whatever is best for the engine.

Thank you for the feedback.
 
Thank you everyone for the feedback. I should have made my situation more clear - The car I bought was owned by a mechanic. The blazer originally had a 305, however, earlier this year he installed a 350 and a new carb. The transmission is about 3 years old. So, mechanically, it's actually running well. It's rough on the inside, the body needs to be sanded down and repainted, and there are parts here and there that need to be replaced, such as the ac compressor, interior components,etc. - so, I tried not to get in too far over my head.
 
The situation is, they made and make several different versions of air cleaner housing that will fit your truck.
Due to hood clearances, some are taller than others.
The more air filter surface area you have, the less restriction and the better the engine will perform.

The chrome ones are "universal" and have to fit under everybody's hood, so they are slim.

Some of the ones that came off other vehicles are taller and use a taller air filter element.
Thus, since the diameter is pretty much the same, the taller it is, the more surface area it has.

If you find one of the tall ones, you are better off.
But, the chrome ones will work.

Even so, this is a good first thing to start with. Most any parts you will need to fix this up can be bought new from parts houses or specialty shops.

But, for some things, you are way money ahead to find them in junkyards. So, learning the ins and outs of your local junkyards is vital.

Looking for an air cleaner housing is a great start. Its cheap, even if you got the wrong one, you would not be out much.
Plus, if you don't find one, you can still buy new, and you will have a better idea what is available in your area.

Great way to ease into the project.
 
I'm not really that concerned with looks - I want whatever will get enough air into the carb. So, are you saying that getting a used one and attaching it to the air inlet is better than the new ones with just the chrome housing? I want to do whatever is best for the engine.

Thank you for the feedback.



Factory is better if you want to pass any emissions testing. It may also help with the heavy foot. I agree with what bliazinzuk said. go online and order the LMC catalog and the Classic Parts catalog. I think the pictures in these are way better than a Chilton or Haynes manual. But you may want to consider those too!
 
The stock air cleaner assembly will flow enough air to feed the 350 that was installed. Unless it is a hi power, very built 350 which I doubt, just stay with a stock unit. Plus the stock unit, with the hose going to the radiator support will pull in cooler outside air to feed the engine.

Those universal chrome filter assemblies just pull in the hot underhood air, not helping the engine especially in the summer months.
 
Those universal chrome filter assemblies just pull in the hot underhood air, not helping the engine especially in the summer months.
Yup. I never understand what would posses anyone to use one of those, unless you're driving without a hood. The cooler the air going in, the better the performance. Hot air = worse performance and worse mileage (although probably not a LOT).
 
For some good education get an LMC catalog, there are several parts diagrams on there that will be helpful.

Here is a link for a free catalog

Thanks for the information on the catalog. I also bought the Haynes manual yesterday.
 
You may also want to look into the actual shop manual from GM. I got a copy from eBay. I personally think it's far better than any "generic" manual, but that's probably just me. :D

I have a 1991 with TBI (fuel injection, not a carburetor) so I also picked up the fuel injection manual which was harder to find, but very helpful.
 

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