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aircraft grade primer

meh, I'm not crazy about the waterbased products...... They MAY have improved in recent years, but we hated em back in the day...

You can get the Nason 2k urethane select primer for about $80 a gallon kit..... nice stuff... I'm basically using it on the whole truck... much better sanding than an epoxy when/if need be...




 
I thought you were dead set on using epoxy primer?

ryoken said:
meh, I'm not crazy about the waterbased products...... They MAY have improved in recent years, but we hated em back in the day...

You can get the Nason 2k urethane select primer for about $80 a gallon kit..... nice stuff... I'm basically using it on the whole truck... much better sanding than an epoxy when/if need be...
Click to expand...
 
There's very little difference between the 2... mostly minutia I wont bother going into...... You may hear me say epoxy quite often, mostly it's so the average joes "get the idea" to use a catalyzed primer... and, it's easier to type... :doah::haha:

you could drive around in a truck strictly in urethane primer for decades, same as an epoxy... urethane is just more sanding friendly.. it's actually a MUCH better primer for bodywork, where your gonna be block sanding, etc...

frames and such, an epoxy is good, but a urethane works just as well...
 
after rereading what I just wrote, I should clarify a couple things...

When I talk about decades, it's more in comparison to a lacquer primer.. neither an epoxy or urethane primer will last without damage over EXTENDED periods of time... years...

Epoxy's have a tendency to oxidize after a year or so, exposed to UV.. Urethanes supposedly are less water-resistant than epoxies, again over time.. But I've never seen issues as such with urethane, have seen chalked epoxy tho..

With all that said, they will protect for years without a topcoat... after 10 yrs exposed?, I'd probably put a fresh sealer coat on before topcoating...

Not that any of us want to have that kinda time to go by before painting the damn thing! :wink1: Tho, at times, it may seem that way....... :doah::haha::(

Also, for the record, as with many products, manufacturers like to play games..... car batteries are a prime example... oils, filters, etc too... In recent years, the coating companies have done much the same...

There are alot of hybrid products on the market.... urethane mastics is an example.. blends of epoxy and urethane primer... epoxies with etching charachteristics, making them more suitable over bare steel, than a urethane... urethane is best applied over a zinc coat... whereas epoxy is better for bare steel, but can benefit from a prior zinc wash too..

That brings up another warning, so to speak... many products that are coming out without the zinc or lead content, do not perform nearly as well as the "dangerous" products... take that for what it is, I'd rather have the quality, and take precations....

this "ramble of the day" has been brought to you by my sponsor, Jack Daniels... :bow:
 
Ryoken, Glad you posted this. last week I went to the depont distributor in town looking for an automotive epoxy primer. He said he didnt have any and recommended the urethane primer you just posted about. Anyway, since I am working on the frame first I went to BLP and picked up some 2 part epoxy primer and epoxy paint.

Since then I have been wondering where to find an epoxy primer for automotive use. Thanks for clearing up my confusion.
 
your quite welcome... I may not always get to reply right away, but am always glad to throw out any wisdom/idiocy I may have picked up over the years to anyone needing some help when it comes to this stuff..

coating systems and rust prevention have been a peeve of mine for 25 yrs.. it was my job.. I was the fleet restorer for a Concrete company, everything from mixers and tri-axles to D-9's to Vettes and planes.. when you have 500 company vehicles, you want stuff to last and not come back for a long time..

anyway, the Nason 2k is a good choice.. very economical for a catalyzed product, user friendly and tough...as I said tho, it's definitely best to put an etching primer on the bare steel.. A zinc wash is best, but rattlecan zinc chromate does the trick... thats all I'm using for this one, rattlecan zinc, 2k, Imron........


zinc001.jpg
 
It's been a little white now that I have sanblasted all my crossmembers and frame. I was looking at the frame and on the inside channel it looks a bit orange. Is that from not blasting enough or it rusting already? Still waiting for my primer to show up.

 
it's rusting.. doesn't take much time at all, weather, humidity, etc considered of course...

I had to reglassbead a few parts right before I primed, as they had been sitting around awhile...

it'll come right off with some 80-120, or rehit it real quick with the blaster... always best to prime the raw stuff ASAP...
 
I have some naval jelly also. It worked good when I got my H1 wheels from CJDean and a layer of rust formed on them. I didn't have a sandblaster and wire wheeling was not working. I was the only was I could get in the small gaps.
 
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