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Airing down tires in a fairly stock setup?

dyeager535

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Did a search, didn't really find any threads that answered my question.

Last weekend took the truck out, to two spots that I travel at a few times each year. Prior to this time, I had no problem crawling up the fairly steep banks. This time, (after fixing one rusted hub, d'oh!) I couldn't climb either one without getting a running start.

I'm sure the angle of the bank has changed some, just due to use, but even with that change, it was kind of depressing.

I'm running 33x10.5R15 BFG AT/KO's, on stock 8" wheels, gov-locked rear. (it works) My cousin, in his longer wheelbase F150, running stock, or at least stock size Toyo AT's, (I believe 265/75R16) was able to EASILY climb the same bank, with no wheelspin, and no running start. I'm sure in his case, the longer wheelbase made all the difference, as I noticed his front end had already crested while the back tires were still on relatively flat ground. Didn't feel/sound like there was any traction control in effect. The K5 had both sets of tires on the bank at the same time.

Essentially the surface is compact river rock and dirt, but dry. It was pretty obvious the tires would start spinning, and once all the dirt was removed, they had no purchase on the rocks that were left sticking up. The previous times I've gone up these, the surfaces had absorbed a lot more moisture.

I've found that these tires aren't real great in snow either. I planned this year during the snow, airing down, and seeing if it made any difference. Now that I've already had a problem when it's dry and warm out, thought I might try airing down while it's enjoyable to be outside.

Curious if there are any guidelines to airing down that I should be aware of? Minimum PSI before you start running into issues with the tire staying on the wheel, how much less is typically needed to get that extra little bit of traction, etc. These are fairly stiff sidewalled tires, but it would seem to me, that with the fairly aggressive tread on the sides, that if they were aired down, it certainly wouldn't HURT to have that tread helping. As it is, with the compacted surface, the side tread isn't doing me any good. It would *seem* to me that more footprint is the key, that I'm not really having a tread pattern issue. Although even more surface contact (more rubber, less gaps in tread blocks) would seem to be a good thing. These tires are like new, so I don't plan on changing them.
 
Without beadlocks, I wouldn't go under 10 psi. Remember that you will lose clearance by airing down.

Don't drive on the highway with your tires at low pressure. Airing down your tires is like night and day though.
 
with a 15" rim and tire combo you can go pretty low. I used to run my 35's in the single digits. as low as 3 psi in the rear once. I never popped a bead.

I have 16.5's now and don't push my luck. 8 psi is as low as I have gone so far. I have popped a bead but it was because I was being winched sideways and the tire was jammed against a rock.
 
Yeah, I'm not too concerned with clearance issues. (although a very good point)

I wouldn't need to be running aired down on the pavement, 95% of the time is spent on either logging roads, or snow covered logging roads. I don't have OBA (one of our party does though, so I can air up at times if I need to) any words of advice on maximum speed to be running if aired down to XX PSI? Typically as it is now I never get over 40MPH, being able to go 35 would be advantageous if possible. Not what I run at constantly, (usually 25 or so) but 35 in short bursts.

Since it's not pavement, I assume heat and wear won't be too much of an issue? But I'd expect trying to take sharp corners at speed to be a really bad idea. Correct?
 
If you go to the photbucket videos I have clicky , where I am going uphill , its all on 20-25 pounds of air . That was low enough to drive safely home on if I didn't corner too crazy . My tires were two inches wider though .
 
dyeager535 said:
Yeah, I'm not too concerned with clearance issues. (although a very good point)

I wouldn't need to be running aired down on the pavement, 95% of the time is spent on either logging roads, or snow covered logging roads. I don't have OBA (one of our party does though, so I can air up at times if I need to) any words of advice on maximum speed to be running if aired down to XX PSI? Typically as it is now I never get over 40MPH, being able to go 35 would be advantageous if possible. Not what I run at constantly, (usually 25 or so) but 35 in short bursts.

Since it's not pavement, I assume heat and wear won't be too much of an issue? But I'd expect trying to take sharp corners at speed to be a really bad idea. Correct?

You don't need to worry about driving with them aired down if you're only going 40 mph
 
I airdown to 15 psi under an '85 Burb. After a trail run, we drove ~5 miles asphault to get to air-up. My rear tires rotated ~5degrees on the rim. You never can tell until you conduct a study. If your tires are balanced by other than lead weight, it may not be a problem.
KOs are not spectactular in snow and mud, just so so. Aired down on any dry, they are great.:D
In snow and mud, I think they need to be near the limit pressure molded into the sidewall.
 
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I'd suggest to try low 20's first. When I had the skinny 33's on stock wheels, I had good luck with 22-24lbs. I'm not sure there's good guidance for what is suitable. I remember Jim Allen stating in Fourwheeler a while back that on his Blazer w/ stock rims and 35 Dunlops, "...everything below 18psi would roll the tire off the rim." I've been using that statement as guidance for my current setup (35" MTRs on 16" wheels). Except for maybe a few of the more extreme climbs I've taken on in this truck, it has worked well for me. On RockerKnocker in Pritchett a few years back, I've been told the left rear looked ready to pop off at 20psi. Then again, this obstacle is more the exception then the rule...
 
Thanks for the tips and advice all. I figure I'll just keep airing them down and stop wherever I finally get traction, without going too low of course. Not like I can't try the same spot multiple times.

The KO's are awesome on the pavement, handle great there, but are probably a tad bit less impressive off-road than I expected. I guess if it weren't for the loose dirt, they'd be fine as is.
 
dyeager535 said:
Thanks for the tips and advice all. I figure I'll just keep airing them down and stop wherever I finally get traction, without going too low of course. Not like I can't try the same spot multiple times.

The KO's are awesome on the pavement, handle great there, but are probably a tad bit less impressive off-road than I expected. I guess if it weren't for the loose dirt, they'd be fine as is.
On dry terrain, they're great when aired down.
 
I run my 37" MT/R's on 15x10's at approximately 13-14 psi on the trail. I have never had one yet come off the bead. I have had them in situations where both I and my spotters thought one was gonna come off but they have some pretty tough sidewalls so they stayed on. Airing down from street pressure (about 35 psi) to trail pressure (about 13-14 psi on my truck) makes a night and day difference as far as traction goes.
-Harrison
 
The DNR officers at Silver Lake (Michigan sand dunes) run patrol in the dunes with basically stock Ram trucks. They just run low tire pressure. On the entrance to the dunes is a sign listing the maximum permitted tire pressure in the dune areas. I heard that if you run street pressure, they will kick you out.

It's not really the width of the tread patch that grows at low pressure, it's the length.
 

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