So, I swapped a single plane J-code intake out of a 1990 in place of the gooked up C-code intake manifold I had on my '89. Used maynard's guide above but it wasn't perfect.
He talked of one vacuum hose cap being needed but I used three. Glad I bought the pack. One capped off the fitting where the hose that went to the EGR led to, the other capped off the fitting near the vacuum pump that led to the solenoids, and then the last capped off the other end down by the solenoids.
Meanwhile there's another hose that goes from the solenoids down to what appears to be a fitting at the rear of the d-side head. Do I need to remove and cap these?
Discovered the vacuum pump would be fantabulous to remove before you try and take the rear p-side bolt out. However it can be removed with it there...it's just not easy.
Managed to snap off both of the grounds on the p-side. Just couldn't get the top nut to come loose from the stud without spinning the whole stud. Luckily managed to find I had a few large enough circle ends in my electrical tool box. Even broke out the soldering gun and did it right to make sure.
Managed to crimp the fuel line coming from the fuel filter while trying to remove the p-side stud forward of the one with the grounds. Again it wouldn't stop spinning and before I realized it the thing had bent and crimped. Doesn't seem to be leaking though.
Only took it for a 2 mile drive but it seems to be a bit peppier and get up to speed faster now. Definitely has to be better flowing.
Check engine light is still on however. I was hoping removing the EGR would solve this but then again the solenoids are still there.
Am I supposed to disconnect them or something? Maynard's pictures showed 2 and I have 3. Kinda confused me.
Anybody know how to check the CEL on this thing? I don't even know where the plug is.
Overall it took me like 6-7 hours but I work slow and tend to second guess myself. Happy with it and one thing to check off my list.
Now to do the heater core, XJ steering shaft, mount the DIY4x rock sliders, gut the back half of the interior and get it Rhino Lined, etc etc etc etc...
He talked of one vacuum hose cap being needed but I used three. Glad I bought the pack. One capped off the fitting where the hose that went to the EGR led to, the other capped off the fitting near the vacuum pump that led to the solenoids, and then the last capped off the other end down by the solenoids.
Meanwhile there's another hose that goes from the solenoids down to what appears to be a fitting at the rear of the d-side head. Do I need to remove and cap these?
Discovered the vacuum pump would be fantabulous to remove before you try and take the rear p-side bolt out. However it can be removed with it there...it's just not easy.
Managed to snap off both of the grounds on the p-side. Just couldn't get the top nut to come loose from the stud without spinning the whole stud. Luckily managed to find I had a few large enough circle ends in my electrical tool box. Even broke out the soldering gun and did it right to make sure.
Managed to crimp the fuel line coming from the fuel filter while trying to remove the p-side stud forward of the one with the grounds. Again it wouldn't stop spinning and before I realized it the thing had bent and crimped. Doesn't seem to be leaking though.
Only took it for a 2 mile drive but it seems to be a bit peppier and get up to speed faster now. Definitely has to be better flowing.
Check engine light is still on however. I was hoping removing the EGR would solve this but then again the solenoids are still there.
Am I supposed to disconnect them or something? Maynard's pictures showed 2 and I have 3. Kinda confused me.
Anybody know how to check the CEL on this thing? I don't even know where the plug is.
Overall it took me like 6-7 hours but I work slow and tend to second guess myself. Happy with it and one thing to check off my list.
Now to do the heater core, XJ steering shaft, mount the DIY4x rock sliders, gut the back half of the interior and get it Rhino Lined, etc etc etc etc...
