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Alignment, camber ball joint adj thingy?

What should I do with my alignment?

  • have the shop install the ball joint adjusting nut

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • have a shop install shims

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • forget the alignment, I do my adjustments nekkid

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

mini_mull

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
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Location
Queen Creek, AZ
I had the hubby take the burb in to get the alignment checked on the burb today. I installed a 4" TCI front spring w/DIY4X rear shackle flip and new 285/75R16 pro comp mud terrains a couple weeks ago, and wanted to make sure everything was lining up good so I wouldn't wear my new tires funny. The front desk girl called us and told my hubby the camber was off and they needed to install a set of "cam bolts" to correct it. I didn't think camber was adjustable on our SFAs, so I got on the phone and asked her how, and she said they attach to the control arms. I said I don't have control arms, so she said hold on and came back and said they install on the ball joint. They wanted $150 for both sides and $70 for the alignment.
Here's the alignment report:
Camber
LF 0.4 degrees RF 0.4 degrees
Caster
LF 9.1 degrees RF 8.9 degrees
Toe
LF -0.23in RF +0.31in

When I got it done last December at a different shop these were the readings after adjusted:
Camber
LF 0.9 degrees RF 0.4 degrees
Caster
LF 9.8 degrees RF 9.6 degrees
Toe
LF 0.15 degrees RF 0.00 degrees

I expected them to just fix the toe like the last shop so their "cam bolt ajdustment" caught me off guard. So I did some searching here and figured she must be talking about the adjusting nut for the upper ball joint. I also saw some adjusting shims that can be installed between the spindle and the knuckle. I've found different opinions in old posts about whether these methods worked and/or were safe, since none were recommended from the factory.

My questions are, if you do think the methods to adjust camber are safe do my measurements warrant a camber adjustment? Or if you don't think they are safe, can you tell me why? Finally, if I decide not to get the camber adjusted should I take it back in to adjust the toe, or just attempt to adjust it in my driveway?

Thanks for the input, you guys are a great source of info and advice and I appreciate all of it.
 
If you bring it to me, I can do it at work on our alignment machine. Camber doesn't appear to be too bad, I'm not sure what the specs are for it though. You could always just set the toe in your driveway though, But I think my shop charges $69 for a front wheel alignment, just let me know before you go and ask them for me to do it.
And the only way i've seen to adjust the camber is with the shims behind the spindle.
 
These are the factory suggested specs out of my manual:

Camber Check +/- 0.75 degrees Re-Set +/- 0.50 degrees
Caster Check +/- 1.00 degrees Re-Set +/- 0.50 degrees
Total Toe-In Check +/- .15 degrees +/- .07 degrees

The shop reports say the following is in spec
Camber 0.5 degrees to 1.5 degrees
Caster 7.5 degree to 8.5 degrees
Toe 0.02in to 0.06in
Cross Toe 0.04in to 0.11in
 
I wouldn't touch the camber then, and the caster is not anything you can adjust, that wouldn't be worth while.and your cross toe from the specs above appears to be .08 which is in specs. so don't touch anything.
 
My cross toe is in spec, but should I be worried about the individual toe, or does only the cross matter?
 
the individual toe is only out because the guy didn't center it. One side can't be out more than the other, the are both egual numbers, if they would have turned the wheel a bit, then both of the individual toe settings would be the same and correct. If that makes sense, I'm getting kinda tired.
 
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