On a 76 K5 can you/ORD do a 4 or 6 inch lift with all springs? Ive never liked blocks and here in VA front Blocks are Illegal! So if the front is all springs id like for the rear to be. Also would the 6 inch lift require cross steer or any driveline mods just going to be a mud/trail rig. Nothing major as far as crawling. Thanks
CK5
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ALL spring lift
- Thread starter 76er
- Start date
I don't think blocks are legal for the front anywhere (nor should they be). If you do a shackle flip in the rear, that gets you 4" of lift with the stock springs, a 2" lift spring would get you to 6" without blocks easily.
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
As far as having a spring shop re-arching your springs, I've heard they'll work OK but will sag over time. ORD's front springs are made to their specs by Alcan IIRC, and while i've never seen them in person, many people have raved about how nice they ride on here. They're pricey, but I sort of wish I went that route for mine. A cheaper route is getting off the shelf springs, tuff country EZ rides are popular for a decent ride.
I would definitely recommend crossover steering, it's not absolutely necessary but gives a much better behind the wheel experience. You can always add it after. You'll at the very least need some steering correction, be it a raised steering arm or drop pitman arm.
I would also recommend a shackle flip and add-a-leaf for the rear, and add a zero-rate 'block' if you need it for the extra height or to move the axle back. You might also find that with that much lift, you will need a CV rear driveshaft. Some people do, some don't. You can also do 6" springs, but that is personal preference. I prefer the shackle flip.
4" lift some have to and some don't on drive shaft rework for the rear vibration at highway speed.
6" will def require drive shafts .
the drive shaft work some get lucky and play with angles and some have to install a c/v head drive shaft in the rear shaft = $$$
first what size tire you wana run ?
second what is the real endd use of the ride once built ?
lift springs for the front are bolt in job . rear also .
anyone who puts blocks in the front should be shot
. . . . but there is a part called a zero rate / or easy inch and it BOLTS to the spring pack and becomes part of the spring setup . these are different .
don't waste time n reaching . sag right back out . and you can only arch a givin length spring so much before it will NOT hook up to the hangers / shackles as the arch has shrunk the eye to eye spec .
also stock front leafs are TAPPERED leaf and are not ment to be reached at all . or have a generic add-a-leaf put in with them and work correctly.
stock push/pull steering fine with correction parts . but limits flex and gives bump steer on highway more . crossover is best but requires a few extra parts to do it up . 2wd steering box / flat top pass side knuckle machined for steering arm / and crossover steering kit.
you need to call ord up and chat with chris ( http://coloradok5.com/forums/member.php?u=17857 ) or if not around Stephen the main guy ( http://coloradok5.com/forums/member.php?u=1224 )
these guys will hook you up correctly and within your budget for exactly what you need.
and try searching around here a bit we have tons and tons of info and pics. as best money spent is 25.00 on membership for full acssess .
welcome and good luck
6" will def require drive shafts .
the drive shaft work some get lucky and play with angles and some have to install a c/v head drive shaft in the rear shaft = $$$
first what size tire you wana run ?
second what is the real endd use of the ride once built ?
lift springs for the front are bolt in job . rear also .
anyone who puts blocks in the front should be shot
. . . . but there is a part called a zero rate / or easy inch and it BOLTS to the spring pack and becomes part of the spring setup . these are different . don't waste time n reaching . sag right back out . and you can only arch a givin length spring so much before it will NOT hook up to the hangers / shackles as the arch has shrunk the eye to eye spec .
also stock front leafs are TAPPERED leaf and are not ment to be reached at all . or have a generic add-a-leaf put in with them and work correctly.
stock push/pull steering fine with correction parts . but limits flex and gives bump steer on highway more . crossover is best but requires a few extra parts to do it up . 2wd steering box / flat top pass side knuckle machined for steering arm / and crossover steering kit.
you need to call ord up and chat with chris ( http://coloradok5.com/forums/member.php?u=17857 ) or if not around Stephen the main guy ( http://coloradok5.com/forums/member.php?u=1224 )
these guys will hook you up correctly and within your budget for exactly what you need.
and try searching around here a bit we have tons and tons of info and pics. as best money spent is 25.00 on membership for full acssess .
welcome and good luck
This is going to be a driver only 2 or 3 times a week, It would only be for mild trails no hardcore crawling so the articulation doesn't bother me much but really want a great mud setup!! As far as Highway 
This gas pig don't see the highway! The 400sb in front of the turbo 350, not exactly a highway combo, Runs around 2800-3k at 55-60 mph.. If any rides are over an hour away id have to trailer it. I wrench all day so the install of anything is no problem, I just want it right the first time around!
Tire size well that's still up in the air Its currently got 33x12.50s and from what I have seen on many sites you cant run 33s on a stock setup with out hacking it up a bit and from what I can tell there is no lift on this one and no hacking? Still confused on that one
!
I want to run at least 38s but bumper height laws in VA suck and they are very strict!! 4500lb vehicle is 28inches, 4501lb-7500lb 29inches, 7501lb-15000lb 31inches. So I am thinking about 6 inch suspension and 1-3 body that way I can take off the body lift if needed and not lose much money.
This gas pig don't see the highway! The 400sb in front of the turbo 350, not exactly a highway combo, Runs around 2800-3k at 55-60 mph.. If any rides are over an hour away id have to trailer it. I wrench all day so the install of anything is no problem, I just want it right the first time around!Tire size well that's still up in the air Its currently got 33x12.50s and from what I have seen on many sites you cant run 33s on a stock setup with out hacking it up a bit and from what I can tell there is no lift on this one and no hacking? Still confused on that one
! I want to run at least 38s but bumper height laws in VA suck and they are very strict!! 4500lb vehicle is 28inches, 4501lb-7500lb 29inches, 7501lb-15000lb 31inches. So I am thinking about 6 inch suspension and 1-3 body that way I can take off the body lift if needed and not lose much money.
I had a friend hat use to run 4" suspension and 3" body lift with 38x12.50 tsl swampers and tiny run in hard bouncing .
if doing body lift get new master body bushing set also your old mounts will be shot after so many years .
and this combo be it not fav for bodylifts around here will get you better results in driveline angles at the 4" suspension lift.
if doing body lift get new master body bushing set also your old mounts will be shot after so many years .
and this combo be it not fav for bodylifts around here will get you better results in driveline angles at the 4" suspension lift.
I have run 37 inch tires on a 2 inch lift. The front fenders were modified but the rear was not. I only rubbed the inner fender at full stuff on the front. Extended bump stops would have fixed that.
All spring 4" lift and zero rates all the way around + 1" aluminum body pucks from DIY4X. gives you 5" of suspension lift, WAY better ride, tad better driveline geometry, and still have a 6" total lift
This ^^
