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Alternative fix for quick release door pins instead of drilling...

OK, I'll add my .02 to the thread. I believe you are referring to my thread when I was trying to do this a few months ago.

What I came up with is having a buddy of mine weld on a steel dowling onto the END of the hinge pin and then drilling THAT piece....which is not hardened steel and a PIA to drill. Thanks to 78Suburban for sharing how to actually drill these. I might try this if needed.

Another way to score the pins would be to put a disc cutting wheel on a bench grinder and then hold the pin.... turn pin at 90 degrees....

Good luck.
 
pauly383k10 said:
How come no one uses a bolt the right diameter . I wouldn't imagine it taking too long to use a stubby ratchet on 4 nuts .

I am lazy , I just unbolted the door and left the hinges on the truck last time I swapped doors for trail .

But your idea is cool though :D

I use bolts on mine, but I don't have a nut on the other side. I just got the right diameter bolt, cut the end off, drilled a small hole for the retainer clip, and inserted in place of the pins. Granted, it's not a super tight fit but that maybe is because the bushings are worn out.......I don't care because the truck is for trail only and the doors are only to keep the rain and snow out in the winter while on the trail.
 
rdn2blazer said:
you cant get the top one in from the top if I remember correctly.

At least on mine there is absolutely no way to get the top pin in from the top because of the curvature of the sheetmetal on the door overhangs the hole on the hinge. Like I said before, as soon as you figure out how to do it make sure you post it here because there are a LOT of people who want to know.
 
It is kind of a work around but you could take the top of the old pin that you cut to get out and make 2 short pins for the top hings and put both of them in from the top. I have not looked at mine to see if it would actually work but it does not hurt to through it out there as an idea.:D

Ira
 
Great idea :thumb:

Also...
There is no need to cut the wires and make connections for them inside the boot. On the inside of the truck you should be able to locate the wires right about the same height at the boot. Now follow those wires up about 4in and you will find a connection. Disconnect and pull through to the outside. The driver door requires some interesting wire fishing or you can just drull yourself a new hole to get the wires in easily. This is a lot neeter than a bunch of unnecessary connections.

Found this out probably a month after the write-up but in all my research for the write-up I never saw it mentioned. I wish I had included it in the write-up because it would have saved a bunch of people the hassle of doing those connectors. :doah:
 
B_to_C said:
Great idea :thumb:

Also...


Found this out probably a month after the write-up but in all my research for the write-up I never saw it mentioned. I wish I had included it in the write-up because it would have saved a bunch of people the hassle of doing those connectors. :doah:

Good to know cause mine is power also:D

Ira
 
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