Alternator questions

[mudbuggy]

Well it's time to start the detailed stuff, first up is to move the batteries to the rear. Pulled out the isolator from the dodge, and the extra batteries, and tracked down the paperwork. Glad that I did, but now I need to find out what type of alternator is actually on the truck. I know that it is an autozone lifetime warranty DL1345-6-7 105 amp alternator, but to use my noco 140amp battery isolator how it is designed to be used I need to find out if the alt that is on the truck now is a CS style or not. If it is then the isolator will work with the alternator and charge the batteries separately if needed, which is a good thing. So what does ye' brotherhood say?

 

[Fordum]

Don't know for sure, I think it is though.

Is the truck available? Easiest way to tell, is to go out and look. If the isolator plug is the same as the plug on the alt. then it will work.

The difference between a CS isolator and a general purpose one is that the CS one has a custom plug to fit that type alt.
If its not a CS alt, then the isolator should still work, you would just bypass the plug.

 

[mudbuggy]

I think your right, it's got a square plug with 4 wire inlets on it. One wire goes into the plug. I pulled it just before dinner and looked. If I'm correct its a cs130, but I am going to play it safe and wait for a gm master to confirm that is correct.

So that means I need to not only run a 2/0 wire from the front to the rear but also an exciter wire as well, maybe 12 guage. This will be a fun one!

Edit: sorry I mean 2 2/0 wires!

 

[dremu]

I think your right, it's got a square plug with 4 wire inlets on it. One wire goes into the plug. I pulled it just before dinner and looked. If I'm correct its a cs130, but I am going to play it safe and wait for a gm master to confirm that is correct.

So that means I need to not only run a 2/0 wire from the front to the rear but also an exciter wire as well, maybe 12 guage. This will be a fun one!

Edit: sorry I mean 2 2/0 wires!

Uhh... the isolator will only be carrying the charge current, not the load. You'd need big wire from the battery to the starter ... but for the isolator, you oughta be able to use #8 or maybe #6, depending on the length. It's only gotta carry the 100A or whatever the alternator puts out. Double-ought is silly overkill as far as I can see.

-- A

 

[mudbuggy]

Well I guess the wire number just keeps going up. That's a 2/0 for the starter, 1/0 from the alt to isolator, and a 12 guage for the excitor wire.

So since this is a diode isolator, will I be able to use a solenoid to self jump from bat 1 to bat 2 (selfjump) incase bat 1 is dead without destroying anything?

 

[dremu]

Well I guess the wire number just keeps going up. That's a 2/0 for the starter, 1/0 from the alt to isolator, and a 12 guage for the excitor wire.

So since this is a diode isolator, will I be able to use a solenoid to self jump from bat 1 to bat 2 (selfjump) incase bat 1 is dead without destroying anything?

Sure. Path of least resistance means the juice would rather go through the solenoid, which is a short circuit when compared with a diode.

Umm, how far away are the batteries? Unless you truck is fifty feet long I don't see a 100A alternator needing 1/0.

-- A

 

[mudbuggy]

In the back of the suburban in the tire hole is where the batteries will be located

The solinoid will only be used to start the truck if the primary battery is not able to start. It will be controlled by me and a momentary switch up front.