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Aluminum beadlock question

GsxrMike

GsxrMike

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I have been considering going with beadlock wheels and I currently have MT Classic II's. I saw on ORD that they have aluminum beadlock wheels for like $300 that are based off of the same wheels I have. My question is does anybody know if someone sells an aluminum beadlock kit so I could make my wheels bead lock (I would take them somewhere local and have them TIGed). Or could someone (Kert maybe?;)) weld them if I send them off?
 
I answered my own question so I have a modified question. Do any vendors on here sell and aluminum bead lock kit?

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I have Weld Super Single II's and took them to OMF. They machined off the outer lip and welded on the bead lock ring, $125 per wheel.
 
There are some inherent issues with modding aluminum wheels that prevent us from doing it.
 
Lots of guys run Aluminum without issue. Most of the rock racing guys run Aluminum.
 
Between all of the vehicles I have been involved with in the last ten years I would say that we have close to 15,000 Off road miles on various AL. beadlocks. Add in that many more highway miles on the same wheels and you get a good test.

I ran the Mickey Thompson Classic IIs with beadlocks by Trailready on my buggy for about 4 years. I had a few issues with them breaking when I ran into 18" tall ledges at 20MPH while running 3 psi.:doah: Other than that I had no major issues. There are some design flaws with the Trailready way of mounting the beadlock ring IMO but they are not a major issue in the long run.

I think the best beadlock wheel out there right now is the Trailready HD wheel. I have seen them take some SERIOUS abuse and keep on ticking. Think 2' tall rock at 30+mph. Both right side tires hit the rock and both wheels would hold air. They were bent but still held air. One tire had a 8" sidewall gash.

While from a manufacturing stand point there are issues with beadlocking a AL wheel I think they are mainly from a liability standpoint. I think most of the beadlock wheels you will find today are a wheel that is designed with being a beadlock in mind. The TR HD series is a machined wheel that was made to be a beadlock from the begining.

I don't see a problem with AL beadlocks myself.
 
After reading that whole thread I am glad I'm not on pirate! Maybe I will just buy new rims or go with steel? I don't know! What differance is it going to make have the weight down low? If I went from steel to AL wouldn't that acually raise my COG? I know it wouldn't be much but just a thought! I am hijacking my own thread now. What should I run, steel or aluminum if I want to go with beadlocks? Thanks!
 
I donno that unsprung weight changes would affect COG much. :dunno:

As for beadlocks, I'd say that steelies are cheaper & simpler. Aluminum is nice, but I don't like complicated...

-- A
 
steel bends aluminum cracks, you can bend back steel and make the aluminum cracks bigger.
for offroad i would say steel for sure, just cause if you break a bead and bend the lip you can just beat it back. just the frequency of wheel damage sends me that direction.

i fix aluminum wheels for a living and go ahead, get em. ill fix em when you break em!
 
There is also a big difference in buying a wheel that was built as a beadlocked aluminum wheel and buying a wheel that was not and making it one.
 
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