Am I retarted or did I read this right? Stroker without machining?

[beastofablaze]

Check out this 383 crank... says no machining is needed.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=25677&parentCategoryId=10185

Sounds too good to be true.

In the bottom of the paragraph it says "counterweights are desinged for easy balancing and do not require any machining for block clearance".

Does that mean it would have to be balanced?

 

[1979jimmy350]

it would still need to be balanced, as for the no machining of the block i did not see anything besides stock style cranks, i don't think it is possible to get a stroker with out block work

 

[beastofablaze]

3.75 is a stroker crank right? So that wouldn't be stock. Unless you can make a 350 with a 3.75 crank using shorty rods or certain pistons( I have no clue on that one).

3.75" stroke and 6" OR LONGER would seem like there is no other option but 383.

How much is block work ballpark?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The "machining" that is needed to clearance a 350 block for a 3.75" crank is minor and was done for free by my machine shop. It is really just a little bit of grinding that is necessary before the assembly goes to the balance machine.

 

[1979jimmy350]

3.75 is a stroker crank right? So that wouldn't be stock. Unless you can make a 350 with a 3.75 crank using shorty rods or certain pistons( I have no clue on that one).

3.75" stroke and 6" OR LONGER would seem like there is no other option but 383.

How much is block work ballpark?

I did not look hard enough on that one, as for the block work, get your self a die grinder and a carbide bur bit, clearence the oil pan rails then check and make the final clearencing during pre assembly

 

[beastofablaze]

Really, thats alot easier than I thought... What do you do about burrs and shavings in the motor?

I got the die grinder and bit but I'm wondering how safe this is for ME to do having never even opened up the oil pan. I am a fabricator and know my way around a power tool but I would be worried about leaving shavings in her.

 

[1979jimmy350]

you clean the motor very well. you should do the majorty of the grinding then clean the block, then during preassembly do the final amount take it back apart clean it all very well for final assembly

 

[oneofthefewbmx]

umm....guys, i have a stroker and the only thing i did besides boring the clynders was deck the block both of which have nothing to do w/ the stroke itself...i did no clearancing nor did i take a die grinder to my block....my **** works fine...it has a scat crank and 5.7 rods and kieth black pistons...no problems....

 

[neverendingproject]

umm....guys, i have a stroker and the only thing i did besides boring the clynders was deck the block both of which have nothing to do w/ the stroke itself...i did no clearancing nor did i take a die grinder to my block....my **** works fine...it has a scat crank and 5.7 rods and kieth black pistons...no problems....

This does happen to a few people, but most have to grind somewhere. I used stock 5.7 PM rods, and a scat crank and all I had to do was grind notches at the bottom of a few of my cylinders and I had to clearance a few rods. I used .080 gap everywhere just to be safe.

 

[DEMON44]

its usually clearance fir the rod bolts on the pan rail......not really a big deal. Nothing to do with the counter weights......which better fit in the block. then more stroke starts looking at clearancing the bottoms of the cylinders and a small base circle cam. then you're still at an interference fit.

 

[beastofablaze]

umm....guys, i have a stroker and the only thing i did besides boring the clynders was deck the block both of which have nothing to do w/ the stroke itself...i did no clearancing nor did i take a die grinder to my block....my **** works fine...it has a scat crank and 5.7 rods and kieth black pistons...no problems....

Thats what I like to hear... What block do you have?



This is kind of OT but its my thread so here it goes...

I Am planning on new afr eliminator 195 heads, solid flat tappet, roller rockers, 10:1, and maybe even a tbi to tpi swap and after putting all the flow numbers in desktop dyno and doing everything down to the last point as close as it's gonna get I got 450 hp and about 520 ft lbs (if I got tpi)... If I stay tbi its more like 430 hp and 490 ft lbs... both curves are flat as a ruler but the tpi intake is more efficient as well as better fuel atomization therefore more power.

BUT I have a 2 bolt block. I have heard of 2 bolts handling 500 hp no problem but I'm still on the fence about the whole thing... If I go 4 bolt I'm looking at serious money to bore, hone, and replace bearings, etc. My 2 bolt is an older LT block which is one of the more sought after rare blocks because of the nickel content so I'd like to just use it... barely has 20 miles on it.

I dunno what do you guys think?

 

[DEMON44]

use it. stud and girdle the mains. give the waterjacket a short fill of cement. plenty strong enough.

 

[beastofablaze]

Thanks for the help guys.

One more question...

I might end up running my current setup for a while to get a feel for the efi tuning and It would be nice to have my truck running so I'm wondering at what point is it too late to just through rings in a block and go? How many miles? Because If I go 383 I'm gonna have to buy 383 pistons right?

 

[1979jimmy350]

you will need a different pistion with the 383 becasue the pistion pin is located in a different postion because of the extra storke, what type of EFI system are you running?

 

[neverendingproject]

Get 6 inch rods and respective pistons... A bit expensive but less clearancing is needed. It also helps with engine life in the smallest bit imaginable.

 

[beastofablaze]

I have a high performance tbi system with all the tuning gizmos but I'm considering tpi.


again thanks for the help