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Amazing Sheet Metal Work Video

Fordum

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Not trying to take anything away from anyone here, Ryoken, for instance, but this left me a little in awe.
I have done some sheet metal work, all in steel, and I have gotten things that good.
But, never on a curve like that one. All my stuff was straight and flat. At least it was when I got through with it.

But, to get all the wrinkles and dents out and get it ready to paint with no filler, bondo, nothing, was darn good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9moYO-WWhaQ
 
WOW!! That is awesome. Never knew you could make it perfect again without some filler or at least a skim coat of filler. That was a cool video.
 
I wonder how many hours were condensed into that video, I would spend a couple weeks trying to do that, with nowhere near the result.
 
cool... welcome to the world of autobody folks...

I've done more hammer, dolley, spoon work than I care to think about... but that's one I don't have a ton of experience in is, working alum.... I've only done it once, on an old 50's Evinrude outboard cowling back in the resto shop days.... which is VERY similar in it's curved nature, but the damage was FAR less severe... I actually found it easier working alum, but much less forgiving than steel...

many of the techniques, and trains of thought he used, are applicable to steel on an everyday basis when doing collision.... knowing where, and how to shrink the metal is the key....

I have about 3 drawers of my box dedicated to hammer/dolley/spoon/body stuff...

actually, that guy in the clip had, or has, a tv show now that i think about it.. they do/did muscle car resto stuff.. real high end...

actually, it's kinda funny this came up.. one of my boat customers has a very similarly crushed fang on his truck he wants me to work out.. like I got time for that... :doah:
 
I wonder how many hours were condensed into that video, I would spend a couple weeks trying to do that, with nowhere near the result.
Yeah, I kept waiting for him to say thats about as good as its going to get, now here is how you apply the filler.......

But he never did.

I have done some work on fairly thin sheet metal,repairing break-ins in Coke machines, that was originally straight and flat, and when I got through with it, you could not tell it had ever been crunched.

And there have been times when I am quite sure I could have gotten all the dents and wrinkles out, but I considered I had hit a point of diminishing returns.
I like to think that if I had the time I could get a piece so flat again that you could not tell it.

But, there is no way I could have gotten that curve back right and that smooth. At least, not and stay sane.........

According to the comments, it took about 30 hours.....

I could not have done it in 30 days.

He had other videos, but I was feeling inadequate enough, so I didn't check on them.
 
Real talent there...


I work with aircraft aluminum, but we don't require that level of beautification...(on the military side).
 
thats a whole different kind of metal shaping.... running a bike tank thru an english wheel is a far cry different than hammer and dolley work...

thats an area of metal fab i would LOVE to start doing.... i've done some hammer/bag work, but i'd probably flatten my thumb in an english wheel or planishing hammer... :doah: :haha:
 
I`m sure you are right,Paul.. but I do think he has some real talent.

A English wheel would be fun to try.:eek1:

The guy that did the work on the cobra was amazing, but what do you do if you can`t get behind the panel so easy..... I suppose thats what bondo was invented for.
 
Ha! I love the "easy chair" he uses...... you can tell he's in no hurry....

yeah.... I wonder how many hours it really did take..:eek1::eek1:
 
Real talent there...


I work with aircraft aluminum, but we don't require that level of beautification...(on the military side).

Cant do too much to aircraft aluminum- 2000 series cant weld it (unless the part was made from some other series of aluminum like 6000). 2024 is commonly used for the fusilage and wings.

I find military planes pretty. :)
 
I`m sure you are right,Paul.. but I do think he has some real talent.

A English wheel would be fun to try.:eek1:

The guy that did the work on the cobra was amazing, but what do you do if you can`t get behind the panel so easy..... I suppose thats what bondo was invented for.

Im an amature I just net apprentice off Ryoken.. :woot:

you cant use an english wheel on aluminum- its too soft, the english wheel would not really heat up the metal, it might actually just move or sheetr off some metal.

Aluminum cars are kinda rare- (aluminum body panels anyhow). Its only because that car's finish is brushed aluminum , you can't paint over it or bondo it.

Every body repair job can be metal formed perfect or panels replaced- however, bondo is significantly cheaper- so you only have to get it to "roughly" correct.

As for "access"- production cars are harder for access than race cars- as usually race cars are just a shell- production cars have all sorts of reinforcements and crash safety beams that get into the way.

I've become a big fan of stud guns. I have a big rust hole in my pickup because pre-ryoken, I had used a drill slide hammer, and crappy fiberglass filler.

Now that I have seen the dark side, I will be cutting out the panel, fabricating a new piece from 20ga or 18ga steel, put it through the roller for a slight curve, bending a 1" lip, then using a shrinker, shrink it to the contour of the lower panel edge, then mig or tig it in place, (after of course, a back side grind down and weld through primer). the top side will be almost perfect metal finish, which will then get the ryoken green spray, topped with primer, then skim coat of light bondo, sanded, glazed, sanded, then high build primer, then sanded again.

Before it gets topped off with 1 dollar home depot flat black. :waytogo:
 

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